[Andrew Garrett]

I always find the 1095 discussions interesting. I've been using it since 2005 when I started out.

I have a Paragon KM-24D but I choose to HT all my carbon steel blades in an atmospheric forge.

I've attempted some sort of controlled soak at critical temp, but have not found measurable differences in 'as quenched' hardness or grain size.

Mt standard HT involves a blade which is 80%-90% ground (bevels) to 120G (220 every now and then).
I pack the spine with wet Satanite (refractory cement) to about 3/16" thick.
I put it in the running forge with no delay. The cement is still wet.
I do not set it down. I hold it with my tongs and closely monitor the blade visually. The tip gets hot first and must be dipped in the quench oil a few times as the rest of the blade edge comes up to temp.
When the color is getting close (dull dark red), I start testing against the hanging magnet. Once it is not magnetic along the entire edge and the color is even, I put it back in the forge for just a second to get back to the correct temp (it lost a few degrees testing against the magnet), then it goes directly into the quench.
The most important part of quenching any carbon steel and especially 1095, is properly preheated oil. Mine is peanut oil heated to 120*. This prevents the hot blade from 'sizzling' in the cold oil and forming a 'vapor jacket' around the blade (which needs to be in contact with warm oil not hot air).
After a second or three in the warm oil, I begin to slowly move the blade carefully fore and aft in the quench tank exposing it to the areas of 120* oil rather than the oil directly around where it went in (now considerably hotter). It is very important that you do not 'paddle' the blade in the oil as it is moving. You want each side of the blade to experience the same temps at the same time. Otherwise, warpage can and will occur.
After about a minute or so of careful fore and aft movement, I pull it out, use pliers to carefully crumble away any remaining Satanite, and then wire brush the blade before a final paper towel wipe.

If I am planning a hardness test on my Rockwell tester, I will have gone to 220 grit or even 400 to allow the penetrator a flatter surface and not a microscopic 'valley' the width of the penetrator tip. A quick rub down with the same grit paper to remove carbonization on the surface and its ready for the tester.

Here's the thing with Rockwell testers (at least mine): It's tough to get an accurate reading on a beveled surface, especially one beveled on both sides. The anvil on the tester is flat. A hollow grind will leave open space under the spot being tested which will destroy the reading and possibly the blade if it is brittle enough at this point. Don't ask me how I know that.
Thus, hollow ground blades at my shop get file tested. After all these years, I've become accustomed to the 'correct' sound and feel it should make.

Moral of the story: 1095 is fine. I've been making hard-use knives out of it for years (one in my pocket as I type this). It makes a decent hamon too. Just be sure to warm up that quench oil (I use forge heated scrap steel to do this). It will actually be 'hot' to the touch at 120*. You will think it is too hot to quench the first time or two, but it isn't.

If you are making a batch of blades, don't allow the oil to get too hot after the first couple. Allow it time to cool back down and check it with a quality thermometer.