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Old 08-01-2002, 09:59 PM
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SharpByCoop SharpByCoop is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northeast USA
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Basic hollow-grinding technique

Guys,

Now that I have my KMG-1 grinder in operation, I have started to practice. I bought a 4' length of 1"x1/8" steel from the Home Depot, and cut out a few 6" 'blades'. Marked and divided the edges to have a reference. 8" wheel, 80 grit at medium speed (1750rpm straight) I have Johnny Stout's video on hollow grinding, but believe me, he sure made it look easy. I'm not quite as ready.

I did manage a few nice bevels and am getting better, but before I start practicing bad habits I need to ask these ~simple~` questions.

I got better results by removing the work rest and doing it freehand. Do I just need more practice? What do the majority of grinders use? I couldn't figure out how to rotate the bevel with the table in the way.

Once I got a 'groove' started, can I go back and forth in this groove, or should I just limit myself to one-directional passes. I got better results with staying in there, but occasionally I'd flinch when it got too hot and lose what I gained. (no gloves)

I got the best upper grind line when I turned the knife over (top edge up). Practice more, or is this OK?

I find it hard to not go get a higher upper bevel at the plunge (?) area. Obviously I need to practice.

Don's CD mentions a number of guys using wooden push sticks. Johnny used one too. Lovelesss' book does it freehand. I found it tough to not burn myself, but actually remove metal. What do you use?

That's plenty for now....

Give me a few days and I'll post pics. I'm not there yet.

Coop


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