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As far as I know there's only the one type of 15N20. All the other descriptions are as bogus as 'surgical steel'. By its makeup all 15N20 is high contrast which is why we use it in pattern weld (that, and the fact the HT specs are a good match with 1084).
Either 1080 or 1084 could be used.
Exactly what sizes you use depends largely on the equipment you have. Since you are working by hand you would want the thinnest pieces you can get, otherwise your layer count will be too low for a decent pattern. I understand the desire to try all this stuff, everyone goes through this phase. Realistically though, you aren't likely to make much of a pattern until you get some power equipment. Unless, of course, you happen to be a gorilla or have two strong friends who can swing 8 lb hammers along with you in a co-ordinated manner as it used to be done ....
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