View Single Post
  #12  
Old 11-30-2017, 01:07 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,345
Al, I might want to add that a near stainless steel will warp with very little heat

If you ever welded a lot of stainless like I have done (including high carbon) you would know to keep a wet rag handy and when the welded joint was almost to the angle, or flatness you want, you then use the wet rag on it and freeze it in place. You do have to take into account how much the rag will warp it too. Practice on a scrap piece in the future and you won't have to worry about possible breaking from cold bending.

By the way Stuart, it will not change the HT much if at all, even on the spine as long as you do it properly. I have a D2 knife I made and heated to remove the warp and took all of one-two minutes and the HT didn't change at all. See as an air cool steel it gets soft, then it gets hard. That process causes the counter-warp so to speak. I know it's counter-intuitive, but so is check and straightening O1 immediately after quench which you taught me and it bloody well works! If I am a master at anything it is moving metal with heat. Even if it's brass or aluminum. The O1 acts like aluminum/brass at T6 hard, but a 450 degree heat will make them soft for up to 3 hours.

I have over 30+ years doing it, mistakes and all. Once you know stainless it's actually quite easy. For a big curve you use less heat, about 400-500 degrees on three or four spots. Wished I lived near you to show you Al. It really is easy.


__________________
Now it says Guru and it used to say Master. I think I like Master better, though skilled would be the best description
Reply With Quote