Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayshadow95
Epiccfail48,
Well, I finish grind before heat treating, unless you consider hand sanding with 220, 400 & 600 grit paper finish grind . . . . .
The warp at the center is less than 1/32 from the saw top, didn't have a real accurate measure handy. But grinding even that much out would make the blade much thinner than what I was wanting it to be, plus I don't have any practice doing that kind of grinding.
It started from NJSB 0.159 bar stock which I make sure is flat before I start grinding.
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Yeah, thats not much finish grinding. I tend to leave my edge thickness about double where i want it to end up on the finish blade before heat treatment, that way if i see any warp during heat treatment i can correct it afterwards. Not really an option in this case though.
In your case id go the anneal -> normalize route. Most of the time warp gets caused by internal stresses in the steel, and the rest of the time its cause by asymmetric cooling causing internal stresses. Trying to force the warp out almost never works, it might be straight for a bit but half the time the warp comes back, and thats assuming the blade doesnt just snap while youre trying to bend it back. It takes longer, but the reheat route is safer and will likely result in a better end result
EDIT: Realized after posting this that D2 doesnt have a recommended normalization process, which makes sense being that D2 is air hardening. Annealing followed by stress reliving is what i shouldve said.