Doug you're like me, a 2 piece as I will tool the loop if it shows and I don't like the flesh side exposed much.
Kevin do you have any leather tooling stamps (you can make some simple ones yourself) or, at the least a stitching groover or divider? For the longest time I used a divider that I shortened one end and sharpened it to a knife edge to set my stitch groove. I finally bought a stitch groover and am sorry I didn't buy it much sooner. Here is an excellent video by Chuck Dorsett of Weaver Leather Supply on basics.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NeNF0oWncY
Also Tandy has a video on how to use a stitching groover.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6204kIzMP80
I took a basic leather crafting class from a Tandy store in OKC back in the early 90s and I have never been sorry for it. There weren't all the excellent videos available then and if you are close enough to a Tandy store I still recommend their basics classes, but if not there are a bunch of videos on Youtube from Tandy and others. Study the videos and especially the simple border tooling which is a good place to start. Simple is less expensive, I had 5 stamps when I started and only have about 25 now.
I see you used your belt sander to get the edges even. That's fine, but be careful as it will take it off fast, use a new belt and you can go back with a worn out fine grit belt and burnish the edges that way. I use a belt to smooth my edges too, but I use an edge beveler to get the "burr" for lack of a better word off the corners of the edge. You can use sandpaper and take it off by hand if you wish as well. But with a proper technique and stitch groover you may not need to do all that.
Do you have a welt on there as I cannot really tell. If you don't the knife will eventually cut through the thread. I will use solid brass rivets sometimes like on a filet knife instead of a welt to protect the stitch (plus you can hide the ends of the thread under the rivet). Just a thought.
I have one caveat, never buy cheap leather without being able to see it. I have and I got some that was decent, but mostly some hairy flesh sided inconsistent bellies as I didn't have a lot of money and still don't. I drive 125 miles to the nearest Tandy store or I buy from whom I know are good sources. Also for knives NO chromic tanned leather, it may corrode even stainless in time.
To keep your costs down Kevin I recommend buying Tandy's items when they have their big sale in July and I believe around January. Call your local store and ask when they will have it. This hobby can get expensive real fast, but it doesn't have too if you're careful and keep it simple at first and an eye out for monthly sales. I check several suppliers, there is a
http://www.zackwhite.com/ in NC too, but it's over 200 miles from me. I slowly over the years acquired more tools and knowledge and believe me I am still learning. If you had about $1200 dollars I'd sell you most of my leather tools.LOL
Oh, also when buying rivets or other fastener hardware like snaps, chicago screws and grommets make sure they are solid brass and not plated, double check, I have had an irate customer come to me with a rusting sheath before and it's rather unpleasant and you also have to take the time to make it right. I literally took a magnet and threw away a lot of hardware (so much for a good deal on rivets). When you get real good at this craft keep it secret from family and friends to as they will start wanting all kinds of stuff.
I like leather working as much as I do making knives, I sold a purse last month for over $100 so it can be profitable too. Sorry for the long answer, I have a teacher's disposition.
