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Old 04-05-2004, 03:12 AM
AKmik AKmik is offline
Steel Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Kodiak island
Posts: 163
Thanks guys.

I heat treated four more blades in this baby today and I am stoked. It works great for me. As Gene suggested I closed up the opening in the front a bit more, cut a 1" wide strip of the fiberfrax blanket and put it flush with the front closing up an additional inch all the way around meeting the brick on the bottom. If I closed it up more it was choked for air, this is about perfect I think.

I used a piece of 6" ID steel pipe10" long, cut a piece of 1/4" plate to fit one end and welded it in place like a bucket. Then half in the middle of that I cut a hole and welded in a 3" piece of 3/4" pipe, it sets flush with the fiber fraxblanket on the top , so I would say the pipe sticks into the forge body by about 7/8" or so, and level to the deck and high enough so the flame curls around the forge body. No measurements there , blasted a hole with the plasma cutter then adjusted the angle by eye ,lucky for me it worked out perfect. Also drilled and tapped a 1/4x20 bolt in there to hold the torch nozzle. The legs were a piece of scrap 4x4 square tubing that was sitting on the saw when I went to cut my pipe, that worked out great too, its solid. The fire brick is about 2 1/2" wide and cut to the contour of the forge with a knife slot, it is just about right on the mone , it holds the blade right where it needs to be, a turn or two during heating and its great. Everything was scrap. I did bead blast and paint the whole thing once it was done. Today I made a rolling forge station by mounting casters to the bottom of a big empty line spool, its 30" wide and holds all my heat treating and forging gear.

The torch came from a local hardware store for $35.

I 'll post a pic of the mobile forge set up, this is perfect for my small shop.

see ya
Mike
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