View Single Post
  #4  
Old 10-21-2017, 02:32 PM
epicfail48 epicfail48 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Springfield Mo
Posts: 95
Not a bad looking design, though I do agree with most of Doug's points. The finger grooves should definitely be toned down, they look cool on paper but in practice they usually end up horribly uncomfortable to hold, especially when it comes to different grip styles (choking up on the blade, reverse grip, sharp edge up, etc). I'd also do away with the little spiky area on the spine side of the tang, looks good on paper but will dig into the heel of your hand in practice.

I do also agree that the Fuller is pretty pointless, although in my argument they aren't good on anything that isn't a sword anyway. Too much time and effort trying to out one in without much tangible benefit. I've done one, and it took longer putting the Fuller in than it did to polish the knife (to say nothing of how long it took to polish the Fuller!).

For the blade metal, I'd suggest either O1 or 1084. Both of those are incredibly easy to work and heat treat, they're the quintessential examples of a "heat and dunk" steel. All you have to do is heat the steel to about 1450-1500f and dunk in oil, and neither is picky about the oil used. It's really hard to screw up either of those steels. In contrast to that, 1095 is a lot pickier about both temperature and quenchant. A little too low on temperature and it doesn't hardened, too high and you start to see grain grown. It also requires an extremely fast quench, and unless you're wanting to shell out $150 on a commercial quenchant that means water, which means a cracked blade 2/5 times. The other you mentioned requires a much higher hardening temperature at about 2100f, which is hard to get to and hold precisely in most home shops. Going off the composition it seems pretty close to D2 steel, which isn't exactly known for being easy to work.

And lastly, I wouldn't stress too much about handle materials. Pretty much anything will work, and nearly all handle materials are easy to work with. For a first knife, I'd recommend looking into G10. Now, I'm a wood-prefering kinda guy, but G10 does have the advantages of being dimensionally stable, being near impervious to just about everything, doesn't require any complicated finishing work, is readily available in nearly any size you could want, and is amazing easy to work. You do need to wear a respirator when working with the stuff, and it is a little abrasive to saw blades, but it still takes shape incredibly easy when grinded or sanded.
Reply With Quote