Quote:
Originally Posted by damon
I'm liking the shape of this one.
getting all the parts lined up where they need to fit flush is quite fiddly.
other than making a while new lock bar, you could try something a touch risky. clamp it in a vise, and heat up the tail end with a torch, up to about 1/2 way to the pivot pin. then once nice and red, gently tap the end till it is below the liners again. looks like 1/16" should be far enough. youll likely need to file or sand a bit to get back to flat and even on the sides.
others might have other suggestions, or you could just carry on with it as is.
also, before you start final assembly, trace your parts out, and hole placements onto some brass sheet to use as templates. you can make the necessary adjustments to the templates to fix some of the alignment issues you mentioned. plus it makes it worlds faster to make more later.
which wood you using?
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Thank you for the advice, I agree with you that this is probably the best way. I am not 100% sure I'll do it or accept the defect. Making the lockbar is time consuming and finicky work (need to be adjusted just right in the notch area and in the place where it pushes on the spring + filework takes time. I'll take a look this evening at the exact geometry of the bar by itself to see if I think I can clamp it well enough that only the correct part will bend. Also my good (read bigger) vise has leather pieces glued to the jaws to protect the metal when I clamp it. Obviously not great if I heat the steel, I have a smaller vice without the leather and it may work.
Good point about the template.
I will use birds eye maple for the wood