View Single Post
  #5  
Old 03-20-2020, 04:26 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,345
Mike, ever try Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover?

Works very well on rust pits that are hard as heck to sand off. It leaves an acid etched looking finish and removes rust even down in a deep pit. There is another rust changer, not remover called Jasco Metal Prep and it changes the rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, or black iron if you will. Great base for painting too, even aluminum.

I just bought two Lauri Progressive tempered Scandi-grind knife blanks. The edge is a solid HRc 63 hard to 54 at the spine. Great little wood carving knives. That is what I will sell them as with cocobolo handles and small brass guard and pommels. Their price including the guard is $20 so I thought what the heck? I used one after stropping the edge with 10,000 grit diamond compound on leather and it cut like butter through 4 oz veg tan.

I noticed that the edge bevel isn't good for 8 oz thick though. It is high carbon steel, I'd guess like 1080 alloy configuration so I figure the edge would chip easily, too bad it isn't CPM 3V which is tougher than anything I've tried. Saw a guy on YouTube make a bushcrafting knife out of .090 3V and he abused the knife something fierce batoning firewood and it held up as if it were 3/16ths thick and held its edge. Said the heat treat process was too time consuming to be a knife he'd make on a regular basis and be affordable. Some steels are like that and he didn't do a cryo if I remember correctly.

Link to the Lauri blades; http://https://www.bensbackwoods.com/blades/

Last edited by jimmontg; 03-22-2020 at 11:22 AM.
Reply With Quote