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Old 02-14-2018, 12:21 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
Posts: 1,345
I haven't tried wood with CA, but on whitetail antler it worked pretty well Kevin. It also depends on the type of Cyano-Acrylate you use l would suppose too. I'm not an expert on the different types, I've only used the Maxi-Cure CA from Texas Knifemaking Supplies for finishing and I hate to say it. Super Glue from Walmart. Antler is very absorbent, but many woods are not.

On wood I usually use epoxy thinned out with lacquer thinner or acetone. I use several coats with my method. I thin the epoxy to the same consistency as the acetone. (Lacquer Thinner contains acetone) and paint on a layer time after time. I may take several days to fill in open grained woods like Wenge wood. This is not stabilized wood, just better than plain wax and polyethylene. With unstabilizable woods like cocobolo (too oily) it fills in the little crevices that the material has. I am aware of a chef's knife I made in 2003 that is still going strong made from cocobolo.

A good test to see if it may work with what you are using is to simply paint some on and see if the wood absorbs it. Walnut or Maple will suck it up, but Desert Ironwood would not and doesn't need it. Experimentation is the key here and some would tell you to send it out for stabilization.

I hope I have confused you enough Kevin. Have a nice day.
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