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Hi Mike!
I didn't get that deep into it on the website, but would be happy to tell you about the hammers.
They are all made of 4140 steel, which starts out as square stock. Initially I tried to hot cut and drift the eyes. Well, 4140 is very tough stuff to hot cut...especially in that large of a cross section. After wrecking a couple of hot cuts, I had to find a new method. Now what I do is measure/lay out everything on the piece of stock, then I drill two 9/16" holes that are touching (no web between them). Each piece of 4140 is welded to a length of rebar (for a handle), then the eye is drifted out. (all the eyes are drifted to fit a large Bladesmith Hammer handle of the 16" long variety, that are available in most hardware stores).
Next the peen is formed with in the press with a set of dies I built specifically for the task (had to use 52100 for the dies because mild steel dies would just deform). Next I go to the air hammer and work the flats and create the face.
After that the hammer heads are normalize, then annealed. Next comes the rough grinding, where I refine the shape down to a 220 grit finish prior to hardening and tempering.
Due to the nature of 4140, and the large size of the pieces, I harden them in used motor oil, in a 35 gallon tank. The heads are sensitive to being cooled too rapidly, and I have a pile of hammer heads that I cracked because of using the wrong quenchant, or not using enough quenchant. It takes about 4-5 mins of quench time for each hammer due to the mass involved.
Next they go into the tempering oven for 3, 2 hour cycles. One of the things that I think makes my hammers better than most is that I strive to ensure that each hammer face is going to be softer than the anvil it will be used on. Making a ding in the face of your anvil, even a small one, is simply a massive job to repair. By making the hammer face softer than the anvil face, if you make a miss-lick, and dent the hammer face, its a very simply and quick matter to go to the belt grinder and clean it up/polish the face back to new condition.
I offer two basic sizes of hammers. The smaller is approx. 2 lb, and the larger is 2 1/2-3 lbs. Because they are hand made, no two are going to be the exact same weight, and there will be slight differences in each.
I personally think the handles make all the difference....I use only Hickory handles, and "split" them lengthwise about 1/2 way. This helps absorb shock that would otherwise be going back into the user's hand/arm. When swinging the hammer, this configuration also gives the handle(s) a slight amount of flex, and due to the flex, gives the hammer "snap" at the end of a stroke on heavier blows.
Before someone asks....NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use fiberglass or steel handles for a forging hammer! Doing so will only ensure that you get "tennis elbow" in short order, and that you get tired much more quickly than you should. Both of these handle materials do nothing but transmit the shock of a hammer blow right up the handle and into your hand/arm.
As far as the face goes, it should be domed, and as smooth and clean as possible. Any marks on the hammer face will be transferred into/onto your work. All the hammers that leave here have the faces polished to a nearly mirror finish.
With a hammer, balance has more to do with how the handle fits the individual's hand than actual balance of the tool. I would expect that each person who purchases one of my hammers would have to grind/sand a little off the handle until it feels good in their hand. I personally like my hammer handles slightly flat on the sides, which gives me more control. How an individual holds a forging hammer is key also.... you DO NOT hold or use a forging hammer as you would a framing hammer. Most folks, when using a framing hammer place their thumb on top of the handle, do this with the repetitive motion used during forging and you will quickly develop carpal tunnel! The grip on a forging hammer should be loose, with your index and middle finger tips touching your thumb. The hammer should be allowed to "rotate" through its motion in the cradle you form by doing this. If your new to swinging a forging hammer, you will form a blister on the heel of your hand, that will eventually turn into a callous......which lets you know your doing it correctly.
Hopefully that will explain most of it, and if not, just ask away!
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