[Ed Caffrey]

Hi Dennis!

I'll give you answers based on my experience, and hopefully others will jump in a give their input too...

1) H frame verses C frame; what are the differences?

"H" frame is without a doubt the stronger of the two designs, just by virtue of the design, it will have less flex.

What I feel are drawbacks to the "H" frame are:

-Generally has a much larger footprint than a "C" frame

-You can generally only work from one direction (unless you have controls mounted on both sides of the press, then you can work from two sides)

"C" frame presses require more mass (heavier structural material) in order to eliminate as much flex as possible. That's about the only drawback I have found to a "C" frame press.

The things that I like about a "C" frame press over a "H" frame are:

- Much small foot print (takes up less shop floor space

- I can work in a 180 degree arc with a single control arm

2) How big of ram is required (max and min)?

I personally think that 6" is the minimum that should be used for a forging press. These are sometimes difficult to find, and are expensive. What you have to realize with hydraulics is that the smaller the diameter of the ram, the more pump/line pressure is required to achieve a given amount of tonnage (force). My press has an adjustable "bypass valve" which means I can control the amount of pressure in the system. It scares the crap outta me when I'm in a shop with a forging press that has a 4 or 5" cylinder, and it's being run with pressures in excess of 3,000 psi.....most hydraulic lines are only rated for 3,000psi, and if I line were to develop even a pin hole at that pressure, it would cut you in half like a laser!

I keep my press set to bypass once the pressure reaches 2,000psi....which gives me right at 25 tons.

3) What are the advantages and disadvantages of having the ram mounted on the top, pressing down, or bottom, pressing up?

The only advantage I can think of for either is for a top mounted cylinder....it keeps all the vital parts out of harms way. With a bottom mounted cylinder, I would highly encourage shields/guards over all the vital parts such as hoses and connections....repeated contact with forging scale/slag, or inadvertently whacking a hose with a hot bar of steel is likely to meet with very bad results.

4) I would ask about single verse dual stage pumps, but I already got myself a sweet setup. But it might be good resource for anyone else.

My pump is a single stage, but it's really all about what you get used to.....after having used a single stage for so long, I find it difficult to work accurately on a 2-stage unit. What I don't like about the two stage pumps is that momentary "surge" of power when the second stage kicks in, and the slow down in ram travel, which is usually 1/2 of the 1st stage speed.

5) How much stroke is required -- easy guys! What is the minumuim and maxuims?

It's all going to depend on how much room you think your going to need. My press has 8" of travel, and for some things it's not enough....I can't use drifts, punches, or hot cuts in the press because there is never enough room. I've often thought that I would like to have a second press in the shop with about 14-16" of travel for making "loaves" of damascus or operations where a drift, punch, or hot cut is needed.....maybe someday.

6) Pump requirements. I have a Parker what outputs 15 gal per min already setup with external filter, hoses and tank. I'm not an expert here but I got it from a company that had it as a spare which went bankrupt.

It's all about matching components to achieve the tonnage and ram speed that you desire. For example, my press runs a 6" dia. cylinder, 8" stroke, 11.5 GPM single stage pump, powered by a 5hp, 3450rpm motor. This yields 1" of ram travel per second, and when the bypass is adjusted for bleed off at 2,000psi, 25 tons of force.

SAFETY!: If you've not worked on a press, you MUST understand that there are incredible forces at work....you MUST keep work pieces under the "center of force" (right under the ram)......for example, if you have longer dies and try to work towards one end or the other, your either going to break the press, shoot something either through yourself or the shop wall, or just cause yourself a lot of pain and/or heartache.

Personally, I don't think there can be such a thing as an "Over built" forging press. Don't try to be the type who thinks they can calculate out the size/gauge/thickness of the press frame materials and get away with building it as light and cheap as possible.....your only looking for trouble. Over Build the frame/super structure just as much as you can, and don't spare the gussets or welding rod!

Finally, use the right components for the jobs.....don't try to skimp on a given part to save money.....otherwise I might be taking ABOUT you (as in "I knew this fella once...)....instead of TO you.