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Thanks Dave.
I suspected the brass rod test didn't work as advertised for the reasons you just mentioned.
This blade design was intentional. Don't know if you hunt or not, but I use to, until a few years ago when my hunting buddy of over 30 years passed away from heart problems. Anyway, when another friend who still hunts asked me to make him a knife, we worked together and tried to incorporate the good features of the many knives we have used in the past into this design. We often carried two knives because after a successful hunt, there are times where it is necessary to cut through bone, so the blade needed to be hefty enough to accomplish that, hence the thicker profile. But, it still needed to be light weight enough to handle the more delicate parts of the process. Plus it needed to hold a good edge through it all. I used the design we came up with on his knife out of W2, which I posted here a couple years ago. He has used it for two successful hunting trips since and really likes how it has performed. So, when my brothers-in-law who do both bird & big game hunting asked for knives, I decided to use the design but adjust it to a 1 inch instead of a 1.25 inch width, and from info here decided to use D2 steel for it's anti-corrosion properties. This is the result.
As for the warp, you may have hit the problem right on. I tried to remember exactly what transpired during the process for this blade, and I remember two things that were different. First, when I took the blade out of the kiln, the foil had ballooned out a lot more than the other two, which I suspect may have been due to that I didn't get a good seal on the seams. Second, was that right as I put the blade between the two plates and started to blow air between them, the breaker on my compressor tripped, and I had to reach down to reset it. I suspect that I let up hand pressure on the top plate at that critical point.
May never know for certain, but I was able to get the warp out, and so far the blade is still staying straight.
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