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ckluftinger ckluftinger is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 4 of 4
  1. ckluftinger
    09-28-2010 09:27 AM
    ckluftinger
    You'll have to read the replies from the bottom up. This sucks, but that's how it works, I guess...
    I run the block flat on each bevel the length of the blade, being careful not to sand the top of the ridge so it stays as crisp as possible. Depending on the finish I'm after, I may stop at 600 grit, or take it to a mirror finish on the buffer. That's how I do it. I hope this helps. If you've never done a double-edged blade, I would recommend you practice on a piece of scrap mild steel or aluminum, even wood or plastic. I'm no expert, and some of the knife makers on this forum may be better at explaining how to do this properly. I can only tell you what I do.
    Thanks for asking
  2. ckluftinger
    09-28-2010 09:26 AM
    ckluftinger
    Any less and the blade will tend to warp in the tank. I then go back to 120 grit and work my way up to 400, all the while checking to make sure the ridge stays straight and centered. It's easy to wash out the crispness of the center ridge as you work your way to a finer grit, as you tend to get too close (even going over the top) to the ridge. I still do that. I'm working on getting better at that. I still can't produce a totally crisp center ridge without smudging it somewhat. I may have to come up with some sort of rig or guide to run the blade against the grinder. I'm doing it mostly free-hand right now. After the 400 grit I switch to hand sanding. I use a block of delrin. It's a tough kind of plastic like high-density poly. Wood or a file wrapped in sand paper works, too.
  3. ckluftinger
    09-28-2010 09:25 AM
    ckluftinger
    Hi Jon,
    I'll have to post the answer in two instalments. The system only allows for 1000 characters at a time.
    Trial and error, the best teachers around.
    The way I do a double edged blade is forge in the bevels on all four sides first, then I start grinding with a 50 grit belt, then 80, then a 120. I do each side evenly, taking off the same amount of steel. After each pass I look down the length of the blade to make sure the ridge is straight and in the center. The plunge cut is probably the hardest to keep straight and even. I use a file to start it on all sides and then use the grinder to follow the established line. This is tricky, because you can easily end up with too thin a blade at this point because you tend to correct the angle of the plunge cut a lot and end up grinding away too much steel. I heat treat after I have a clean shape, with most of the hammer marks gone, but the edge still about 1/32 inch thick.
  4. jonwelder
    07-21-2010 11:05 PM
    jonwelder
    Very nice work!! How did you learn to grind double edge blades? I'd like to learn!... Jon

About Me

  • About ckluftinger
    Biography
    A life-long "tinkerer" i've been blessed with that exraordinary gift of being able to "fix everything". Bladesmithing is just another stop on my journey...
    Location
    Delta, British Columbia (Canada, that is...)
    Interests
    fencing - that's how I got into blade making - SCUBA diving, working in my garden. We have two young boys who keep us busy...
    Occupation
    Executive chef for a large managed services provider
    Real Name
    Christopher Kluftinger
  • Signature
    Chris K.

    Two Mountains Forge
    Delta, BC, Canada
    www.twomountainsforge.com

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  • Last Activity: 09-16-2017 10:31 PM
  • Join Date: 02-09-2010

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