ckluftinger

You'll have to read the replies from the bottom up. This sucks, but that's how it works, I guess...
I run the block flat on each bevel the length of the blade, being careful not to sand the top of the r##ge so it stays as crisp as possible. Depending on the finish I'm after, I may stop at 600 grit, or take it to a mirror finish on the buffer. That's how I do it. I hope this helps. If you've never done a double-edged blade, I would recommend you practice on a piece of scrap mild steel or aluminum, even wood or plastic. I'm no expert, and some of the knife makers on this forum may be better at explaining how to do this properly. I can only tell you what I do.
Thanks for asking

Any less and the blade will tend to warp in the tank. I then go back to 120 grit and work my way up to 400, all the while checking to make sure the r##ge stays straight and centered. It's easy to wash out the crispness of the center r##ge as you work your way to a finer grit, as you tend to get too close (even going over the top) to the r##ge. I still do that. I'm working on getting better at that. I still can't produce a totally crisp center r##ge without smudging it somewhat. I may have to come up with some sort of rig or gu##e to run the blade against the grinder. I'm doing it mostly free-hand right now. After the 400 grit I switch to hand sanding. I use a block of delrin. It's a tough kind of plastic like high-density poly. Wood or a file wrapped in sand paper works, too.

Hi Jon,
I'll have to post the answer in two instalments. The system only allows for 1000 characters at a time.
Trial and error, the best teachers around.
The way I do a double edged blade is forge in the bevels on all four s##es first, then I start grinding with a 50 grit belt, then 80, then a 120. I do each s##e evenly, taking off the same amount of steel. After each pass I look down the length of the blade to make sure the r##ge is straight and in the center. The plunge cut is probably the hardest to keep straight and even. I use a file to start it on all s##es and then use the grinder to follow the established line. This is tricky, because you can easily end up with too thin a blade at this point because you tend to correct the angle of the plunge cut a lot and end up grinding away too much steel. I heat treat after I have a clean shape, with most of the hammer marks gone, but the edge still about 1/32 inch thick.

Very nice work!! How d## you learn to grind double edge blades? I'd like to learn!... Jon