I have finished two projects for practice. a moneyclip and a key pocket. Both I did a unique design on to see what I can do. I did a quilted pattern on the money clip and a faux snake skin on the key pocket. Now I have a stiching question. When Hand stiching, you finish off by back stiching. But how far should you back stitch? Today I'm going to dye and wax my own thread. I got some linen left twist spool here, going to roll some of it on a empty thread bobbin and dye it dark brown and let it dry and wax it up. also when finishing a project, can I just finish it with a top coat of super shine? and what is with this oil and wax dip I keep hearing about? what is that all about?

Also when dying, how do I dye something muticolors? do I use brushes and paint it on the areas I want it?

Oh and one last thing HOW THE HECK CAN I POST A PIC? I wanna so you guys what I did so far. It isn't perfect but I'm proud of it!

Lara

Hi Lara it's me again, hope this helps-

1) Backstitch 2 1/2 or 3 1/2 stitches - Backstitch two or 3 stitches with both threads, then do one more backstitch with just the top thread (the 1/2 stitch) so that both threads are sticking out the back of the project, then clip off. I normally use 2 1/2 but when a lot of stress may occur do 3 1/2. For decorative stitching, such as around an inlay where there will be very little if any stress do 1 1/2. Actually on knife sheaths and holsters I start stitching at the top of the seam and do a backstitch for strength. Start 3 stitches down stitch up to the top and then back down over the those stitches and on down your seam to the tip and do 2 1/2 back stitches. This is when using 5 or 7 cord linen or something of similar weight. Over time pulling a knife in and out of a sheath really stresses the seam so this helps prevent breakage. Do the same when attaching your belt loop.

2) After your dyed thread drys, rub it good with a dry cloth (old towels work great) to get off any excess dye. Leather dyes are a powder in suspension and when dry they leave a light film of the powder on the surface. Always do the same thing to your project before finishing and you shouldn't have dye rub off - or at least not as much. I have a dog leash type clip attached to the wall: Fold the thread in half and clip the looped end on the clip, hold the two loose ends and stretch the thread, then rub like crazy. You can also do this to wax your threads real well (pull the thread through a bit at the middle to make sure you get the center section)

3) Finishes - Super Shene is just fine for a top coat, but I prefer either Fiebings Tan Kote or Leather Balm with Atom wax - all three good products, but make sure you put them on in 4 or 5 light coats rather than a just heavy coat or two. As for the hot oil/wax dip - I'm with Sandy on this with one - I just don't use it. Personally, I find it a real pain and find that the other finishes are not only easier to apply, but are also superior when done right. So I'll let somebody else explain it. For a low sheen oil type finish you can use Lexol Conditioner or Montana Pitchblend Conditioner (actually MT is mink oil and beeswax - just rub it on and then let it sit in the sun for awhile and you will get a similar finish to the hot oil/wax!). Remember before glueing/sewing your project together you should finish the inside with one of the first three in order to act as a sealer unless you're going to use the oil/wax dip. Gum Tragacanth also makes a nice top coat/sealer - I learned this from the folks at the defunct Mast Harness Shop who used it as a top coat for their fancy Amish harness goods after blacking it.

4) Multicolor - use fine camel hair brushes. Always work from light to dark. Do your light colors first (you can even do the whole thing in the lightest color first). Then use a LIGHT coat of Super Shene as a resist on the area that you want to stay light but only up to the edge. Then paint in your darker areas, being careful to not over load the brush with dye when you get close to the edge of the light/dark area. Just remember leather is porous so it can run under the resist and discolor the light areas.
!!!When doing it this way DO NOT use the hot oil/wax dip as the heat may screw everything up!!! I probably wouldn't use either Lexol or MT Pitchblend either, but I've never tried them on multicor projects.

5) Uploading photos - I have my own website and use that for photos so I guess somebody else will have to answer this one (maybe contact the moderator directly?)

Thanks! I have soo much to learn, and a million questions. I'm really enjoying this so far, can't wait to get more supplies and keep going at it!

Lara