Below is something I saw posted by Ron Claiborne. He is a forging guru, and a regular in our Platalk discussion group. Always willing to share his wealth of knowlege.

"I have welded cable a lot and its really easy. First I will say i have better success in a gas forge like the one one my web page user.icx.net/~bowie/ (http://user.icx.net/~bowie/) it's temperature is more controllable than coal but it can be welded in coal as well. You will have to build a igloo type fire to weld in ,this is to be able to build a reducing atmosphere this
is conducive to the type of welding you will be doing. It can be done on the top of a coal fire but not as easy because of the air that may cause slag.
I will explain the way that i do it in a gas fire and really there is no difference than coal except that in a gas forge you can heat the complete bar. I start out with a 1 &1/8 " round cable of good improved plowshare steel. This is
1095 steel, an industry standard. This is a fine steel to weld and makes a great blade ( use NO cable with a core )other than steel, it will never weld unless its removed and replaced with a steel core.
Got side tracked sorry. Back to welding - I use the cable as is most of the time, it has oils and grease on it, even some dirt. This i have found will burn off in a gas forge but won't in a coal forge....another reason that i use the gas.
Place the cable in the fire -let it burn off all the oils and this will increase the fire and it will be smoky but this won't last long. Let it burn until there are no more flames that are caused by the oils, you can tell the difference.
Bring it to a dull red -- flux it heavy with regular Mule Team borax like you get at the store. Place it back in -let it come up to a welding heat. I know I'm taking a long time to explain this sorry. In a gas forge adjust the flame
so that it is coming out of the mouth of the forge this is a good way to know that you have a reducing atmosphere. If using coal make sure that the igloo's firm and that there are a good amount of coal at the base of the fire.
This increases the air flow until theinside is near white and flames are coming out of the hole of the mound. This is a reducing condition for coal.
Watch the flux -when it begins to boil it's near ready to start your weld. Allow it to set for a few more sec like 30 or so and bring it out to the anvil. Then start the hammering at the far end with light taps do not hit it hard. This will only cause the bar to unravel. As you tap the ends twist the bar as you tap. If it reduces some move on back with the same process. It will at this time only reduce a little. Flux and place back to the forge with the opposite end in the fire. Get to welding heat and bring out. Repeat the same process that you did on the other end. Try to reduce the end as far as you can, it's possible to weld them to a point. Flux place back in bring out take it to a vice and twist it as tight as you can. This will cause a lot of slag but it will fall off with a little help and a wire brush.
Place back in the forge and repeat the welding process until it feels solid. At this point hammer into a square and repeat welding process. Then hammer it flat and reduce it a little at a time, and hammer at welding heat.
This will insure welds that might not have taken in the previous attempts.
It sound really complicated but it's not, and it's lots of fun to do. Don't be discouraged with a few failures, it's just paying your dues.
You will be welding cable and with great looking patterns and without inclusions in no time. Good luck and if I can confuse you further let me know (grin) BOWIE "

Steve
www.stevescutlery.com (http://www.stevescutlery.com)

Thanks Steve, for taking the time to care and share. Thank you Ron for the time and sweat to learn and then to share with us wannabes. I hope others will take advantage of this enligtening tutorial. Many cudos and thanks to you both.
KEN (WWJD)

Steve
Really enjoyed reading the info, very informative. Where can a person find good cable to work with ? Most of the stuff I have run across has that funky tar paper covered core inside it.

Any info is appreciated
Scott

Scott; I'm not a pounder and am just guessing, but I would think the tar paper you speak of would burn off during the process. I don't think Ron posts much at the forums, but for good, firsthand information come into our paltalk room in the evenings. Ron's usually there, and can explain most any forging process in detail. It can be found in misc groups, and is called *A Knife Maker and Collector chat* or something like that.<bg>

Steve
www.stevescutlery.com (http://www.stevescutlery.com)

So that is where Bowie has disappeared to.:) He used to post now and again down at the Outpost. Always good information.
He is definetly a guy to listen too and he makes really fine knives

ghostdog