Steve, I have gotten in the habit when profiling blades that will have a guard on them, of leaving a small projection on the knife blank to act as a guard locator/stop. Later, after HT and guard installation, when I make the finger cut in the guard, most of this projection is ground away, and the small amount that is left is blended into the scales and the guard. This keeps me from winding up with an abrupt transition where the guard is attached to the blade, and having to dig past the perimeter of the profile to smooth it out. Is this something you do on your hunters? Thanks-

Sorry, Don, I'm not exactly sure what you mean. I cut a radiused notch in the tang and slip the guard into it, then pin and solder. Then file the finger cut right down to the tang and finish that transition point along with the rest of the tang.

Off to ECCKS, let me know if I can answer your question better on Mon., OK?

Steve, I think I understand what you described, but since a picture is worth a thousand words, I though I would try to draw it out. Is this what you are doing?

http://www.cowlesknives.com/forumpix/johnson.jpg

Do you file the finger cut, or mill/grind it?

This one is an illustration of how I do it- the small projection gives me a little grace so I don't wind up with a square corner in the middle of the radius at the junction of the guard and tang.

http://www.cowlesknives.com/forumpix/cowles.jpg

This method evolved for me after some frustrating experiences, but you obviously have a better way, and I am teachable. Thanks.

That's it. However, with the notch, which the guard is inserted into, you don't need two pins, since it isn't going anywhere, after the one pin toward the top of the guard is installed. Make the fit as close as you can, even a squeeze into the notch.

I cut the notch either by bandsawing a series of slots into the tang, then filing it with a square file, giving it a radius, or, cutting it with the endmill, on which I've ground a little radius on the corners by hand. Start with an end mill that is smaller than the thickness of the guard and then widen it out to the exct size. Even polish the front of the guard first, so that it's at final thickness, before cutting the notch to fit - tightly.

You can also make the finger cut in the guard with the mill before assembly/soldering, stopping the milling cut .030" -.040" above the top of the notch, and then, as I do, file it down to the tang when you get the guard soldered. Or....you could make that cut that while it's in place, as shown.

Be sure to radius the corners of the notch, as you show n your dwn'g. This works for me, but I see nothing wrong with your approach.

Don't mean to butt-in, boys ...

Don, I'm glad you put your name on those drawings. With all that copyright and trademark talk on the other forums, I don't want to see you guys getting cheated out of your hard work.

Steve ... glad you made it back safe! I was scared that someone might ask a question that only the "grand poohbah" could handle ...

Alex

Edit ... man, momentary insanity. Sorry! The 70's ...

Great trip.

I flew JetBlue and it cost $200 R.T. They have no first class or bus. class seats and no meals, just snacks. The only complaint I have is that I had the same pilot both ways and he told the same jokes both times, talked a little too much. It was nice to hear from him though and have him acknowlege our presence.

They seem to be customer oriented, but their seats seemed a bit hard (maybe still new?) and the leg room wasn't anything to brag about, but neither is it in any other coach class's. This isn't an endorsement, just wanted to let you know that they are out there. Guess it's getting too late, huh?

What is the purpose of the radius in the notch? Why wouldn't you want it to be perfectly square?

Bob, a square corner at the guard notch would be a serious stress riser and potential failure point.

Don

I believe that's what is called a "metallurgical notch," and it just gives a spot where, under stress, the blade could break. It's wise to "round'" or chamfer all corners/angles that are cut into the edges of the steel on a blade, even the holes through the tang, for this same reason.

how much do you have to round the edge? just enough to make it not a sharp angle?

plus, does this apply to differentially hardened blades where the sharp angle isnt even hardened? (i wouldnt imagine it would be)

thanks

The more the better, of course, but any rounding and smoothing will help. You can even sand and polish it if you want to go that far. I'd do it on softer steel areas, also. It take no time and would be worth the little effort.