We announced that we were working on a Sub-hilt video on 6/19/04. Well, we finally have them in hand. The 3 hr. and 48 min. video is done and available, for anyone out there who's interested. Goto: http://www.srjknives.com/avail2.htm

The mail man droped mine off yesterday. I watched the first disc lastnight and am looking forward to the second.
I would like to thank you Steve for taking the time to make the video and for beeing so generous with your knowledge and skills

And I hope you have a wounderful New Year!

Charles

Steve,

I had to watch the entire video last night!

What a terrific video! Just seeing the techniques that Steve has talked about for years right in front of your face. These pictures are worth a million words!

I would recommend this video to anyone, and I mean anyone that has an interest in knifemaking. Steve's techniques can be applied to any style knife and will make your life in knifemaking much easier and more productive.

Thanks for the fantastic video and all the effort that you and Gene put into producing it.

Bob Sigmon

Thank you, Bob and Charles. Glad you like it. Hope it is of some help.

To answer a question that I'm getting:
Just mail a check to the posted address, with your shipping address.
S R JOHNSON VIDEO
PO BOX 5
MANTI UT 84642 USA

Add a total of $10.00 for foreign shipping, please. Hate to mention this, but I've
been asked: Just tell me if you want the jacket signed.

Happy New Year to everyone - ESPECIALLY OUR SERVICEMEN!

I watched the second disc lastnight and all I can say is "AMAZING".
I have a question. If you are making a knife with handle pins instead of Corby bolts, do you still use super glue or do you use epoxy?
The many steps you use your disc grinder for is great and has me in the shop today trying just a few of them.
I'm sure i will have other questions later.

Thanks again
Charles

Charles;

Yes, I use super glue, but probably the medium thickness and I'll cut grooves in the pins on the area that will be inside the handle and also, with my little dental tool, cut some grooves inside the hole, inside on the handle material, if there is room. Tough on a 1/16" pin hole!
Put glue on the pin and inside the hole.

Congradulations Steve,
It took a long time, but we did it.
Great job and my thanks, Sir.
I am blessed and honored to be a part of it.

Let me know when you are ready to do it again,:lol

Steve, this is a dream come true, thanks so much.

Thank you, Gene. You and Rich did all the work. Thanks to all for the support.
I'm excited and hope everyone feels that it's worth it. We'll have to try it again.

Steve, it was worth it. Just got my copy in today's mail, and watched the whole thing. Most excellent!

Thanks, Don. I'm sure glad that you liked it. Thanks for the thumbs-up! They are a lot more work than I ever expected!

Steve, just got done watching my copy. Great job all the way. Gene, keeps getting better at these videos too. His camera angles really pick up the work and editing shows what needs to be shown.

Couple questions Steve:
What is the pin press you are using?
When sharpening, you showed edge up and one grit belt for the entire sharpening?

I agree with everyone else. I wish I had this video when I started out 18 years ago. It would have saved me a lot of agony. Steve, you make it look so easy!

One thing I REALLY like about the video is the close ups of the blade after each step.

Paul

Thanks Tracy. Glad you found it useful. Gene is great, isn't he?
The Pin Press is sold by Knife and Gun Finishing Supply @ http://www.knifeandgun.com/ and is on page 38 of their printed catalogue. Don't see it in their online cat. Cost is $275 and it weighs 54 lb., so there would be some shipping expense.

I sharpen with a somewhat worn 400x Alox belt. A new belt is waaaayyyy too aggressive and can cause problems. Edge up lets me see what's going on with the edge.

It is easy Paul, after a few hundred blades! No not really, grinding a Loveless-style fighter, be it a NY Spl. or a Big Bear is ALWAYS challenging. Just ground and polished a Big Bear for a customer in Norway this week and it was tough! Takes a lot of concentration AND time. Glad the DVD was of help. Thanks for the good report.

There is surely a ton of help out there these days, isn't there? Shows, Guild, ABS, PKI, foreign organizations, many makers who are glad to help, videos, books, etc. We're lucky these days, of course I was truly blessed to have had the opportunity of working alongside some of the greatest makers, for which I am very thankful.

Steve,

Finally got the chance to watch the video last night. Simply OUTSTANDING! This has got to be the best how to video I have seen. :101

As Bob Sigmon said, actually seeing your techniques is worth a million words!

Thank you for taking the time to share them with us!

-Mike-

Wow, Mike. I appreciate your kind words. And those of everyone who's commented.

Steve,

I too just finished watching the second disk this afternoon. Excellent piece of work. As someone getting started it boosted my confidence level just watching you. One thing that was very helpful to me was seeing the overall workflow from blank to completion. The grinding lesson, however, was over the top. I learned so much from that. Yes, you do make it look easy but in turn you make it approachable.

As good as it is, and it is very good, it still left me with quite a few unanswered questions. So I hope you don't mind my asking them here.

1. Was the Ironwood used for the handle in a natural state or was it treated or stabilized in any way?
2. Other than sanding and buffing, was the handle material treated in any other way for finish?
3. What share of holding power, for the handle material, do you attribute to the bolts vs. glue? With the hollow grind on the tang it seems to me that the glue may be more for fixturing than strength.
4. Cyanoacrylates come in a number of viscosities and working times. Which did you use?
5. What was the specific solder you used. Great tip using the heat gun for soldering BTW.
6. Where do you get cork belts? I think that's what I heard you call them anyway.
7. The pin press is very cool but could an arbor press be substituted?

Sorry for so many questions but after watching your great video I hunger for even more information.

Regards,

Allen

Thanks for the kind remarks, Allen. Please ask questions, that's what this forum and the video for that matter, are all about:

1. Was the Ironwood used for the handle in a natural state or was it treated or stabilized in any way? NOT STABILIZED, BUT I DO TRY TO KEEP ALL NATURAL HANDLE MATERIALS AROUND TH SHOP FOR A WHILE, PRETTY DRY HERE, SO, IF I DON'T STABILIZE THEM, THEY SIT HERE FOR A WHILE, MONTH'S.

2. Other than sanding and buffing, was the handle material treated in any other way for finish? JUST THE SANDED AND BUFFED FINISH, DESERT IRONWOOD HAS SO MUCH OIL IN IT THAT THERE'S NO NEED, IMO.

3. What share of holding power, for the handle material, do you attribute to the bolts vs. glue? With the hollow grind on the tang it seems to me that the glue may be more for fixturing than strength. BOLTS AR A ZILLION TIMES STRONGER THAN GLUE, BUT THE SUPER GLUE "DOES THE JOB" VERY WELL IN MY MIND. IT IS VERY TENUOUS STUFF, JUST TEAR A HANDLE APART, THAT HOLLOWED-OUT AREA WITH LOTS OF GLUE IN IT HOLDS VERY WELL, ESPECIALLY IF THERE IS A LINER.

4. Cyanoacrylates come in a number of viscosities and working times. Which did you use? THINNEST I CAN GET, UNLESS I NEED TO FILL A HOLE IN WOOD, ETC.

5. What was the specific solder you used. Great tip using the heat gun for soldering BTW.
EUTECTIC 157. STAYBRITE, ALLSTATE WORK FINE. THE FLUX IS EUTECTIC 682, WHICH I CONSIDER ESSENTIAL. POP SUPPLY HAS A LESS, (MUCH LESS) EXPENSIVE SOLDER WHICH I'M TRYING THIS WEEK, OR NEXT.

6. Where do you get cork belts? I think that's what I heard you call them anyway.
FROM ABOUT ANY SUPPLIER: TRU GRIT, POP, KNIFE AND GUN, BADER. NOW, I'M NOT SURE THEY ALL HAVE THEM, BUT SOME WILL FOR SURE. THERE WAS A WORRY THAT THEY MAY BE ON THE VERGE OF BEING DISCONTINUED, HAVEN'T HEARD ANYTHING LATELY.

7. The pin press is very cool but could an arbor press be substituted?
I WOULD THNK SO, BUT I'VE NEVER HARDLY EVER USED AN ARBOR PRESS. I'D GUESS THAT THE PIN PRESS WOULD BE MORE POWERFUL AND MORE CONTROLLABLE, BUT HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU NEED TO SMASH A 1/6" OR 3/32" PIN? AS FOR CONTROL, WITH THE PRESS, IF YOU TAKE IT SLOW, YOU CAN ACTUALLY MANIPULATE THE WAY, OR STRAIGHTNESS THAT THE PIN IS COLLAPSING AS YOU GO. I'D SURE TRY AN ARBOR, SEE HOW IT GOES.

THANKS FOR GETTING THE DVD AND THANKS FOR THE QUESTIONS. SHOULD HAVE INCLUDED THEM IN THE FILMING, PROBABLY.

Steve,

Thanks for all the info. These forums are great. I've been lurking for the better part of a year now, posting only occasionally, and have learned a great deal. I've been collecting, knifemaking, tools over that time and am now very close to jumping in the deep water. My only fear is that it is starting to become way too addictive. Now, to just find the shoptime.

Any chance of getting some detailed pics of your pin press? I've searched the Web and can't find anything like it described as such. The picture from K&G is too small to tell much and the ten seconds or so in the DVD were not enough either. I'm considering trying to build one for myself. I'm particularly interested in how the moving table is capturing the guide rods and the force capacity needed. Also, what material are the anvils? If I do decide to try and make one I'll be sure to post in the Tool Time section.

BTW, I ordered some Cork Belts for my KMG from Supergrit. They were only $6 each if anyone else is interested. Thought that was a good price. Especially if they last as you say.

Allen

Thanks Allen, there is no hope for you, we just as well start calling you "Knifemaker!"

I'll have to email you the photos of the Pin Press, as I can't figure out how to post them here.
I have some good shots.

Steve,

If you would like, I can host and post the pics of your pin press. Just email them to me and I get'em up "post" haste.

We all would like to see the press! :D

Bob Sigmon (bobsigmon@sbcglobal.net)

You've got 'em, Bob. Thanks for your help!

Thanks for getting me the pics. I had to work today at a friends, so I'm just getting to posting the pics. I hate it when work get in the way!

Anyways, here are the picture of Steve's Pin Press -

http://www.fototime.com/6782CEAF36FDCB6/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/58C77E5BAC14277/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/C8B71BF06C22164/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/2B716120D3907B0/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/0CB8E90A446FEB2/standard.jpg


Steve - Any time you want to post some pictures just email me and we'll work it out! :D

Bob Sigmon

Bob & Steve

Thanks for posting the pictures. Looks to me like a doable project. I'm seriously considering making one.

Now if some kind person, who owns one, :D would be good enough to give out a couple of dimensions.. Oh, like the diameter of the rods and the overall width.. I could probably scale the rest of it pretty close from the pictures. Now, a good bottle jack..hmmm...

Thanks guys. Once I complete my Ray Rogers hardness tester I think this is my next project.

Allen

I am building one of these things....It won't look as pretty as this one tho...

Mr Mickley,

With the quality and style of knives that you produce, I'd bet that you press will be good looking (with a nice flow), work perfectly and probably have a mirror polish! :D

Bob Sigmon

Great video! It's good to see a master at work.

Steve, a quick question if I could. Do you heat treat the 416 guard material? Years ago Sheffield sold it already heat treated, but since they stopped sellling it that way it seems a lot of people don't bother with heat treating anymore. I wondered whether you had found it beneficial.

Thank you for the good report re: the video. I hope it is helpful.

I don't heat treat T-416 SS and very few do, to my knowledge. Heat treating, of course, increases the hardness, and, perhaps is a bit more non-corrosive, but I don't think it improves it enough to matter much. Maybe someone else has another opinion. Have never had a problem with the annealed 416.

Steve, both Fred Carter and Tim Herman have told me that they are heat treating their 416 fittings. They claim that it reduces their tendancy to scratch, and that the parts are still easily engraved.

Thanks Don. That's the word from the horse's mouth. I do know that engravers have no problem with the heat treated 416SS.

Thanks! I sent one batch of 416 out for heat treating after Sheffield stopped carrying it that way, but that batch is almost gone.

I've wondered for a while whether a heat gun would be a better soldering tool than a propane torch - I thought it might be "cleaner" - but I haven't gotten around to trying it (haven't done a soldered guard in some time.) And here I thought the idea was original with me!

Kinda like knife designs, many have been done before. Makes soldering much nicer, for me at least.

What is your feeling about heat treated 416. I haven't used it for years, maybe ought to try it again.

Sounds like I need one of these Video's. Can it be picked up in person and signed by the Master in Person ?

Shane

You show up, you get a signature on the label, the disks, the container, your forehead, whatever and wherever. I'll try to find a master somewhere in town. Give a call, it may take a while.

I've never used non-heat treated 416, so I can't compare them yet. I do find the heat treated stuff pretty easy to work with.

the only thing I use 416 for at the moment is bolsters, which I pin rather than soldier. I'll probably start soldering again soon; I just got tired of filing those slots without a milling machine.

I thought heat treating would make the 416 more resistant to scratches from sliding in and out of the sheath, but that's a non-issue at the moment, since I've started putting a hand rubbed finish on my bolsters instead of a mirror polish.

Those scratches will still be there,I fear. Hardened blades can be scratched by sheaths. Hope it works out for you. Certainly should make them more resistant to scratching.

I just finished watching the video also. Great job especially the grinding.

What type of wheel was used on your buffer, it looked yellow, it looks like that wheel has a large sideplate to make the wheel stiffer or a smaller diameter wheel. What are the advantages of that setup over a std musslin wheel. Do you ever dress the wheel with a rake etc?

The other question is glue. What are the advantages of cyanoacralate over epoxy. I know epoxy doesn't like oil. Does super glue work better with oily woods than epoxy or do you choose it for convience ( no mixing, thin and penetrates better ).

Thanks and great job on that knife.

I'LL JUST ANSWER AFTER YOUR QUESTIONS, IN CAPS, OK?

I just finished watching the video also. Great job especially the grinding.
THANKS, I HOPE IT WAS HELPFUL.

What type of wheel was used on your buffer, it looked yellow, it looks like that wheel has a large sideplate to make the wheel stiffer or a smaller diameter wheel. What are the advantages of that setup over a std musslin wheel. Do you ever dress the wheel with a rake etc? I GET THOSE 1/4" GLUED, UNSTITCHED WHEELS FROM POP KNIFE SUPPLY. STACK THEM UP IN SETS OF 3 OR 4. THEY ARE A BIT" STIFF, BUT NOT TOO STIFF, NOT SQUISHY. THEY ARE AGGRESSIVE - WITHOUT BEING TOO AGGRESSIVE, SUCH AS A STITCHED, HARD WHEEL WOULD BE AND MAYBE NOT AS DUSTY/LINTY AS PLAIN WHEELS. ALSO, I CAN TAKE THE OUTSIDE TWO OFF, TURN THEM OVER AND HAVE A NICE SHARP CORNER FOR BUFFING AND SMOOTHING OUT THE FILLET ON A SOLDER JOINT. THAT'S THE ONLY WHEEL I USE AND THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE I KNOW OF TO GET THEM. THEY ARE 8" IN DIAMETER WITH A 1/2" ARBOR HOLE. THE SIDE PLATE DOES JUST THAT, MAKES THINGS STURDIER AND THEY COME WITH THE BALDOR 333B BUFFER. I'LL DRESS THE WHEEL WHEN IT'S TOO LOADED WITH COMPOUND, WHEN I NEED TO CLEAN THE COMPOUND OUT, OR SOFTEN IT UP A BIT.

The other question is glue. What are the advantages of cyanoacralate over epoxy. I know epoxy doesn't like oil. Does super glue work better with oily woods than epoxy or do you choose it for convience ( no mixing, thin and penetrates better ).
THE SUPER GLUE ALLOWS ME TO PLACE THE HANDLE SLAB IN PLACE, CLAMP IT SOLID, THEN RELEASE ONE OR TWO CLAMPS, OF THE 4 THAT I USUALLY USE, APPLY THE GLUE THROUGH THE SCREW HOLE IN THE TANG AND IT "WICKS" TO THE EDGE OF THE TANG. THEN I RE-CLAMP THE FRONT TWO CLAMPS, RELEASE THE BACK TWO, AND APPLY GLUE THRU THE REAR HOLE AND THONG TUBE HOLE, SAME WICKING RESULTS. DON'T DILLY-DALLY, BUT IT ISN'T AN INSTANTANEOUS SET-UP OF THE GLUE, BECAUSE YOU'RE USING A LOT OF GLUE, NOT JUST A DROP OR TWO. THIS WAY, THE SLAB GETS PUT - AND STAYS - WHERE IT BELONGS, DOESN'T SLIDE AROUND, AS IT POSSIBLY MIGHT DO WHEN USING EPOXY, SCREWS, ETC. ALL TOGETHER. THEN YOU DRILL THAT FIRST SIDE, TURN THE KNIFE OVER AND DO THE SAME TO THE OTHER SIDE. BE SURE TO CLEAN THE TANG AND SLABS WITH ACETONE, OR SOMETHING.

I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S ANY BETTER WITH OILY WOODS THAN GOOD EPOXY. IT DID SOLVE THE PROBLEM, HOWEVER, OF THE FRONT OF THE HANDLE LIFTING OFF OF THE TANG AS I USED TO POLISH THE TANG AND THE GUARD/BOLSTER AREA YEARS AGO WHEN I USED EPOXY. GETS PRETTY HOT THERE. TOTALLY HAPPY WITH THIS GLUE. I GUESS CONVENIENCE IS A PART OF IT, ALSO. NO MIXING, NO WAITING, MAYBE 5-10 MIN., IS ALL. THANKS FOR PURCHASING THE DVD!!
Thanks and great job on that knife.

Man oh Man, now I have something else on my must have list! It sounds like a great video I am definitely getting this one soon!

I watched it start to finish yesterday and it is most excellent Steve!!!

Probably the best knifemaking instructional video I've seen!!! :D

-Nick-
http://www.wheelerknives.com

Thanks, Nick. Makes it all worthwhile. I appreciate the kind words and support. We'll save one for you David!

Steve,

Where do you buy your ss306 and the white ss303. K and G used to carry the pure green chrome but not any more.

great video.

also which 3m cubritron belt do you use? the number i guess i'm askin'.


Thanks,
Bill

Thank you, Bill. Hope you've found it to be worthwhile.

I use the white compound almost exclusively now and get it from:
R C H Supply Co Inc
4511 Everett Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90058-2621
(323) 583-2388

White Compound….. #SS300...... $1.24/lb 65 lb/case, $85.00/case

Green Chrome compound…. #SS306......$1.38/lb, 65 lb/case, $89.00/case

I use the 50x Cubitron™ and it has the letters YF and the numbers 967F and P5 on it, also, and of course 3M.
You might try the 60x, also, 50x is pretty rough, maybe a bit more so than the Alox version.

Since nobody's mentioned it yet, I wanted to let ya'll in on a few hidden pictures on Steve's DVD. If you go to the Pictorials Section on disc 1, and push the up arrow, there are some personal pics compliments of Steve himself.

Check out our entire line of videos at www.knifemakingvideos.com

--Rich--

Steve,

you always use disk grinder when you need to flatten whole blade.
I don't have a disk grinder and use flat platen on my KMG for that. I screwed up a couple of blades doing that. It seems that I can't apply equal pressure lengthwise and sidewise so blade gets ground unequally. I tried to use a magnet but it didn't help much.

I wonder if disk grinder doesn't have this problem.


Thanks,
Alex

I have much better luck with the disk sander, using 1/2 of the surface at a time. Some disks are actually tapered away from the center toward the outer edges so that you can work on that area easier, mine is just flat, however. It gives you a lot more surface to work on than the width of a platen. Works for me anyway. You can also lay the blade across the top 1/2 of the disk with a longer blade and get even more surface area to apply to the face of the blade.

Steve, I just finished watching my copy of the video and it's great! Absolutely the best knifemaking video in my collection. I am going to try making a New York Special style knife and I was wondering what stock thickness do you use, and do you also use the 3" wheel for the blade bevels on this knife?

Steve,

Please let me add that this is a great set and has already helped me alot!

One question please: Any tips for using the round file to blend the radius between handle and guard? You make it look so easy, but my file barely bites the metal and gouges the heck out of the wood, making things a bit uneven:(

Thanks,

John Frankl

Rick: Thanks for your kind remarks, I'm happy that the video is of some help. I use 3/16" stock for the NY Special and, yes, the 3" wheel on that blade, too.

John: Thanks, also, for your nice comments. I am not sure what you are asking, it does help to use a sharp file and one the is not too coarse. Also, you can wrap a piece of sandpaper, or even a torn-off strip of used 400x belt, to sand the guard/wood juncture. But I'm not sure what you are asking, I'm sorry. Perhaps P.M. me or give me a call with more detail.

Steve,

what is the "grease stick" you are using on disc grinder? What does it do exactly?

Thanks,
Alex

I got that "grease stick" from RCH Supply, also. I'm sure that most, if not all, of the suppliers offer that item. It cools the disc grinding process and helps put an, "almost polished" finish on the item that you are flattening, be it blade, guard face, handle/bolster ares, or whatever. It also can allow you to get more service from the sandpaper. When the paper seems to be worn out, apply a little grease and it will give it new life, to some degree.

Steve,
Great video! As I watched, I commented to my wife on the many segments that you appeared to make seem so easy, but really get perfected with time and practise. At the same time, I appreciate how much detail you put in and explained. It will me a great learning tool that I will refer to many times, I am sure.

It will be a challange to find some of the supplies here in India. I wonder if there is something else that could be used in place of the grease block for the sanding.

Thanks again!
Norris

Sure glad you like it and found it helpful. Thanks. Just use anything that's greasy/waxy, in a pinch. Maybe a fine buffing compound? Heck, try beeswax! It's not a "must" item, but really is nice, once you get used to using it. Not really, again, a "must have" item. Lard, Crisco, or the like, anything to smooth thing out a bit. Minimal amt. is probably best to stat with.

Steve,
Great DVD, I have learned some good tips and will recommend it to other novice makers over here.
Col

Wild Bill: Here are Ken McFall's comments re: SS300 White and SS306 Green RCH Compounds from another Green Chrome thread:
[QUOTE]
Steve

Knife and Gun finishing Supply carries both of these compounds . The catalog number for
306 is AB 806 and the number for 300 is AB 852. Jim and Meg Kier gave them these numbers years ago,
http://www.knifeandgun.com/catalog/compounds_186640_products.htm
Ken
__________________
K&G

Thanks for the kind words, Col. I appreciate it and am happy that the DVD is useful.

Steve as some of the others have commented you make it look too easy. It is interesting on your grinding to start out on the 8 inch and then go to the three inch! A very good video and the close ups are done very nicely . A good value nonetheless. Mike

I just use the 8" wheel to remove more metal, faster, it' not really a necessity, just one of the things that I've done in the past that works for me. It actually is a little touchy and some might find it easier to use the smaller wheel all through the blade grinding steps, as you get a more defined, deeper groove for the wheel to stay in on a fighter blade with a 3 or 4" wheel. As with anything, practice makes things easier. It's not really easy, but after a few thousand blades, things do become more familiar, even easier to do than for the first, say, 10-20 blades. Hand, eye, muscle coordination comes with training and repetition. Any grinding process is going to be very difficult that first couple of times, I'm sure for most.
Thanks for the report, Mike.

Steve, there is no reason for you to remember this, but Ron Lake introduced us at the first ECCK show at the Meadowlands in about 1990. I remember because you were very kind in your comments about my knives at the time....I'm sure more than the quality warranted, but I enjoyed it just the same.

Anyway, I wanted to let you know that my copy of your sub-hilt video showed up in the mail today. It was best evening I've spent in front of the TV in a long time. I really enjoyed the level of detail from start to finish. My thanks to you and Center Cross for doing such a fine job. Also, thank you for signing the cover and the personal note inside, that was an unexpected treat.

Sincerely,

Thad Buchanan

Thanks Thad. I honestly don't recall meeting you, but I'm glad we've met, anyway. Maybe we'll see you in NYC next Feb at ECCKS? Must be a great guy if Ron hangs around with you!

Thanks for the good report on the DVD. It's always good to have a satisfied customer. We tried hard to present everything we could in the video in an understandable fashion. Some things are lacking, I'm sure, but in general, I've been pleased with it.

I think Ron let's me hang around because he has fun nit picking my work! Seriously, he's been very generous in sharing his expertise over the years and I value his friendship a great deal.

I would love to come to New York someday, but probably not this February. For the last 15 years life was too busy and I've just been making knives for local folks. I've just started attending some of the shows again a year ago. Las Vegas in Feb. and the Blade show 2 weeks ago were my first knife related trips outside of Oregon in a long time. I feel like I need to get a few more shows under my belt before a face a room full of New Yorkers. I will be in Chicago though in September however. If you're going to be there, I'll make a point of stopping by your table and reintroducing myself. Otherwise, I'll catch up to you farther down the road.

Thanks again for what you did on the DVD.

Thad

We'll see you in Chicago then. Looking fwd. to meeting you.