View Full Version : Pin offset and alignment question


2LBT
11-08-2012, 03:56 PM
Hello Pros,

I can't seem to find info from the search info


Question 1: Offset

Is there a "standard" or how does one determine what the offset of the pins
should be from the top of the spine to the bottom of the handle so it looks even
after scale install

Question 2: Alignment (probably answered by question 1)

Should the pins follow the spine contour and be equal distance of offset
from the top of the spine or use X/Y axis's for alignment

Thank you in advance

Rob

Doug Lester
11-09-2012, 07:45 AM
I generally keep mine in the middle of the tang for the best visual effect. I also don't use more than two pins which also makes a difference. I do try to place the pins equal distance from the ends of the tang. As far as standards go, it's just what looks right. Try making an outline of the tang on paper and checking the visual appearance of the pins that way.

Doug

Eli Jensen
11-09-2012, 08:38 AM
My pins are also centered vertically. If I'm doing a single piece scale I'll do like Doug said, equal offset from the ends of the tang. If my scales are multiple pieces together I'll usually put a pin in the center of each piece.

argel55
11-11-2012, 07:40 PM
You also must take into account how far they are set in from edge so that you have a round pin look instead of shaping them so they look cut off sloped.

Steve
11-15-2012, 04:40 PM
I put the screws a little (.060") above center on a hunting knife, less on a smaller knife. Then they do not "appear" to be below center. A Loveless recommendation. Optical illusion.

2LBT
11-16-2012, 03:03 AM
Thanks Guys,...

Yes, that's what I was trying to recall that I saw or read somewhere about the .060

Steve
11-16-2012, 06:23 PM
That's an approximation. The larger the handle the more room you have to play with. A very small handle needs the pin/screw pretty much centered. As far as pins near the edge, 1/8" will usually do it, but it's true, as argel55 says, if you round off the edges a lot, you elongate the pin surface and it's not "round" anymore.

2LBT
11-18-2012, 12:41 PM
That's an approximation. The larger the handle the more room you have to play with. A very small handle needs the pin/screw pretty much centered. As far as pins near the edge, 1/8" will usually do it, but it's true, as argel55 says, if you round off the edges a lot, you elongate the pin surface and it's not "round" anymore.

Good Info,...Thanks

What's the most common or looks most balanced on an 8" hunter as far as Corby fasteners,
1/4, 5/16/ or 3/8 ?

I've also seen different pics, but is handle width normally the same or about 1/8" wider than the blades, blades appear to be 1" ?

Thanks in advance

Ed Tipton
11-18-2012, 06:09 PM
2lbt...I know of no "standard" pertaining to handles or pin placement. Generally speaking, I just go with whatever looks good and feels good in the hand. Obviously, having more pins in the handle means that if it is to look good, then those pins must be in proper alignment with respect to each other. Doug's statement of sticking with only two pins and keeping things centered makes it pretty simple to do, and it looks good.
Sometimes, especially when working with antler or natural materials, your final handle will be dictated to you by the material being used, but if it violates the "look good/feel good" rule of thumb, I shy away from it, and opt for a different material.
I do try and ensure that the "flow" of the handle and the blade is smooth and not interupted by any "steps", ....but again, steps do not LOOK GOOD to me. I try and keep the back of the knife from the point of the blade through the butt of the handle one smooth unbroken line. It can be curved...but NEVER stepped. Again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but I think this approach is about as close to a standard as you are likely to find.
I also tend to shy away from guards that interupt the flow of the spine of the knife. If I employ a guard, I only use a finger guard that prevents your finger from sliding up onto the blade...I have never used a guard that protrudes over both the top and bottom of the knife...but again...beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and that look does not appeal to me..

2LBT
11-18-2012, 08:28 PM
Thanks for the info ET,...

Probably what I didn't clarify well is the pins I was referring to is the 2 main fasteners in a typical
drop point and not so much the several 1/2 dozen or so smaller pins that are sometimes around the perimeter of a handle, my terminology was probably not correct

What Steve mentioned earlier was the tip I was kind of looking for since I read/heard there can be an illusion effect if the Corbys are centered from top to bottom, and offsetting them slightly can correct this

I was going to start off with a batch, but I think it's wiser to make a couple of protos to make sure all is well before I make a small run of them to find out they look off

You guys are super helpful

Thanks

Steve
11-19-2012, 12:48 PM
Just go above center a bit and see how it looks. Don't sweat it too much, you'll get the idea. Start with .060 above center, it will be close.