Hi there,

I've just found this site and I'm really excited about putting together my very own custom knife.

I'm planned on purchasing

1 x DDR I with Red G10 handles
1 x DDR I base kit

I will be putting the the red DDR I together to understand how the different components will come together.

I am researching ahead to see what I need to do to put a custom handle, filework etc. on the next blade. Can I get some hints and advice on what to get?

- Dremel <- I have one
- Breathing Mask <- I know I need this one
- Sandpaper? <- Will this substitue for a belt sander?
- Files?

Regards,
Ed

Ed, welcome to the CKD forums!

You're already on the right track with what you have. The Dremel can do a multitude of tasks, so you will be well-suited with this as a start. Sure a belt sander is an aid, but not mandatory.

Look back through the posts. We have over 5 pages of good info from guys like yourself who are doing great knives from hand tools. This would be time well-spent!

Keep us posted on your progress and questions!

Coop

I found a very nice post from Kelly a few pages back on detailing what you need to put a kit together

I've just ordered a DDR I with a red G10 handle and basic kit.

I can't wait to work on this. I gotta talk to my friend who is a dentist :) He is the closest thing to a materials engineer I know. I got some ideas...

Cheers

Heh.. And to think all this because I followed a link in the balisong forum on bladeforums.com

Hey Edsel ... welcome to the CKD!

Man, how great would it be to have some of that Dentist equipment to work on knives with? Those drills would be nice! :)

Alex

Would dentist equip really be good?

I have a friend...

Prost,
Morgan

I just got my kit today.

I'm real excited.. Heck I even assembled one kit with the red G10 scales in my lab... :)

Anyway, I have been considering equipment for the 2nd kit and how to cut and roughly grind a scale. I will be using a dremel for now, as I already have one.

I was wondering if it was worth the effort to get the dremel drill press attachment so I can countersink the holes for the scales. Or should I get a dedicated drill press?.

Oh yeah, what is the, errrr... black plastic thingy for?. I'm sorry if I can't describe it properly. It seems to be same width as the liner spacers.

This is going to be interesting... Computer nerd attempts knife kit...

Regards,

Ed

Ed,

The black plastic thingy is a spine that would take the place of the two metal spacers for the liners. You can just shape the spine or do custom file/dremel work before assembling the two sides.

Have Fun!

Bob Sigmon

Hey Ed,

For the amount of use that you need, maybe that add-on wouldn't be a bad idea. I dunno--never saw it.

As an alternative that you might practice with, try wrapping a piece of tape on your bit at the precise depth you want to go. You might very well be able to do it this way.

I am spoiled with a regular drill press, and they are pretty darn cheap from the discounters. You may find far more uses in it's lifetime than just using it on knifes.

Keep us posted!

Coop

Hmm.... My reply seems to be missing...

here it goes again..

I thought as much that it was a liner spacer... I got confused as it was too short (it didn't cover the whole spine, I figured it was a template) and the pre-drilled holes didn't line up with the liner holes for the scales.

Thanks for the clarification.

I think I am going to spend some money on a grinder and some buffing wheels. I can use my friends drill press for the time being...

btw. I noticed that the liner with the lock is touching the blade when the folder is closed. This is putting a scratch onto the blade everytime I open and close the knife. Any tips to fix this short of rebending the lock so there is clearance for the blade?

The dentist drill will only work on soft stuff. The rpm's are 400,000 to 500,000 but there is virtually no torque. If you were trying to carve ivory or wood for an artistic handle, it would probably work fine because the speed will do a lot for you. However, the speed will not be enough to overcome the hard work required to grind steel.

If anyone has ever had a dentist drilling on your teeth, you will probably remember the drill stopping and the dentist lifting it off your tooth to get it going again, he was not using much pressure to make it stop.

Just so you know.

Bob- not trying to be feisty, but a priciple is at work in these high-speed, turbine-driven tools that does in fact allow them to cut very hard materials, even with virtually no torque. It is called 'angular velocity.'

There is a pretty good explanation on this website: www.turbocarver.com/thetool/thetool.html (http://www.turbocarver.com/thetool/thetool.html)
I have used one of these tools for several years.

I was just going off of what my dentist told me. He does several "ART" type hobbies and has used dental drills in most of them. When I talked to him he told me that the dental drills would not work because of the torque. He would know more about it than me since he uses them every day, so I took his word for it.

I do agree that you can cut a board with a dull blade if you increase the speed of the saw.

I was under the impression that the turbo carver was designed differently than your typical dentist drill, but I have been wrong before and will probably be wrong agin.

"btw. I noticed that the liner with the lock is touching the blade when the folder is closed. This is putting a scratch onto the blade everytime I open and close the knife. Any tips to fix this short of rebending the lock so there is clearance for the blade? "

Ed -- Not uncommon. You need to 'tune' this a bit. Take the scales off the LF side, loosen the two small liner-to-liner screws. Now readjust the alignment a bit and tighten the screw even while holding pressure to set it. I've had to do this (not often) to get perfect alignment. You are shifting, ever so slightly, the axis alignment of the pivot pin.

Bob and Don -- Conversely, I use a Foredom 'R' series flex shaft machine which allows FULL torque at the lowest RPM settings. It really can cut metal well and controlled. Different animal for a different task. Thanks for your tips!

Coop

Ed-
Regarding the drill press(es):
I did my first three kits entirely with my Dremel, including the drill press that goes with it. But then, I was working with the supplied scales (handles) that already have the pre-drilled holes/countersinks.

On future knives, once you start working with your own material for the handles, the Dremel press will no longer suffice. When preparing your own handles, you need three drill bits- 1/16", 3/32", and 5/32". The 5/32 is for the countersink (to accomodate the screw head) and your Dremel can only take up to 1/8", so you will come up 1/32" short!

At that point you'll have to get a regular drill press that can take the larger bit. (For my current knife, until I can make room for my own drill press, I had to borrow my neighbor's. I've only been at this for a month and it's beginning to take over my basement. (My wife is starting to freak just a little)

But for now, you'll be amazed what you can accomplish with the Dremel, a whole lot of sandpaper, and a heap of elbow grease!

Have fun and prepare to be sucked into a really satisfying addiction.

Dennis

Thanks for all the feedback... I'm there is quite a bit of information to digest.. I have to locate finer grit sandpaper next. My local home depot only has grit that goes down to 400.

btw. I think I was sent the liner spacer for the DDRII instead of the DDRI they are definately much shorter than shown in the picture on the website.. :(

Ah well.. Some thing else I can make eh?.

Regards,

Ed

Go to a good hardware store like ACE or to an auto parts store to get wet/dry sandpaper down to 2000 grit. You can also get it at the Walmart here by me.

Yeah, you are LUCKY to have gotten a spare DDR2 backspacer. The DDR1 doesn't come with one normally. I have made any of mine out of hardwoods. You'll put it to good use sometime soon. (I'd guess in about a week or two!) ;)

Coop

I was wondering if it was worth the effort to get the dremel drill press attachment so I can countersink the holes for the scales. Or should I get a dedicated drill press?.

Ed, I just got myself a drill press yeaterday. I'm in the UK an I bought mine from Wickes, 5 speed (change the spindle on the belt drive) 1/3 horsepower (250 watts) and it works very well - cost £39.95 new. I almost didn't buy it because I thought it was bound to be junk at that price, but am very pleasantly surprised. The press is exactly the same as the Grizly mini drill press ($70 USD or thereabouts) and weighs in at about 50Lbs. I think they are Chinese made (don't expect Rolls Royce engineering), rebadged for various importers around the globe.

The first thing I drilled was a 3 mm hole through the torque-bar for my drill vice (cost more than the press - lol). The press did a very respectable job, a very neat, square hole through an 8mm round bar, with no wobble or skate during drilling. When the press is set up, there is no noticable oscilation at the tip of the drill at all. With a 1/2 chuck and for the money, gotta be a better option than the Dremmel press attachment. OK, so it's not a *real* drill press, more of a toy, but if you're not using it daily, it delivers very respectable results.

If this helps....

5 Speed Baby Drill Press (http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?Product_ID=9008&&User_ID=981981&St=9235&St2=49087200&St3=-45179338&DS_ID=1)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/pics/g7/g7942.jpg

"Ed -- Not uncommon. You need to 'tune' this a bit. Take the scales off the LF side, loosen the two small liner-to-liner screws. Now readjust the alignment a bit and tighten the screw even while holding pressure to set it. I've had to do this (not often) to get perfect alignment. You are shifting, ever so slightly, the axis alignment of the pivot pin."

I've doing as you've suggested. I can affect the alignment of the blade by adjusting the pivot pin or the liner to liner screws.

Unfortunately, if I loosen the liner screws the LH handle woobles.. I have to loosen the screws quite a bit and I don't think they are thread into the RH holes. I have tried putting pressure on the blade and tightening the screws are you suggested but the pivot just goes back to its original alignment. Where can I get longer screws?. I think that should help the blade from wobbling.

If I align via the pivot.. The action of the blade becomes real loose. I like a my blade action to be "tighter".

Hi Folks,
Thanks for helping with all the questions.

For drill press's in the usa call harbor freight.
They have one from time to time on sale for 39.95.
I use these in my shop.
I just assemble them , then indicate the table to 0, then I pin them so they will stay in square all the time.
I have 6 now . I need three more (tool junkie) PANT PANT...


I have a question?

How would you folks like to see a new grinder attachment that I designed for finishing knives?
This grinder will work vertical and horizonal both.
It will also allow you to profile around the outside edge of you frames with the handle material attached to them in a jiffy.
It will keep your handles square to the frame OD also.
I use this grinder in my shop every day for roughing and finishing the od's (outside of the frame ) on my customs.
I designed this work table to attach to a grinder that is for sale everyday on the market as a standard grinder. This attachment has a rubber wheel not a steel wheel that is 1.5 inchs diameter for a very nice finish. The rubber works like a cushion and is forgiving when finishing. It does not leave knock marks from the belt splice this way. The grinders is very well made having a baldor motor and is ul listed. The attachment takes 5 minutes to apply to the grinder then it is good to go.
The attachmnet will allow you to use the grinder in a horizonal position making finishing to 600 grit on the od of the knife a BREEZE. The scratch lines on your knives will be correct also (pointed forward) like a hand rubbed finish.

Then you can apply a barn door hinge to a table and attach it to the grinder . This will allow you to flip the grinder up and sit it in a vertical postion and use the grinder for vertical work also.
This makes one simple grinder into a multitasking grinder for finishing kits and custom knives.
I have 4 of these units ready to go as attachments for a nice inexpensive exsisting belt grinder.

Am I on track here?
I figured it up. I have to sell these attachments for 199.00
The grinder itself costs about 175.00 for suppliers.
The closest thing I can find on the market has a cost of 2500.00 for a horizonal grind alone.
Sometimes the simple things are best.
Email me if you have an interest. I will be taking pics and posting them soon.

**moved to Darrel's question thread**

Unfortunately, if I loosen the liner screws the LH handle woobles.. I have to loosen the screws quite a bit and I don't think they are thread into the RH holes. I have tried putting pressure on the blade and tightening the screws are you suggested but the pivot just goes back to its original alignment. Where can I get longer screws?. I think that should help the blade from wobbling.


Ed: Huh?? I'm not following you here. The ONLY thing that will make the blade loose is the pivot screw, right?? But if you tighten this to the proper friction, the blade is too far over center. This is what I'm deciphering. Hence the alignment needs to come from the shifting of the two liners (not the scales) from the hidden screws on the LH side. I'm not following where you would need longer screws. I'm so confused!!! ;)

Darrel: Of course this sounds interesting and valuable! And a picture is worth a thousand good descriptions. Feed me....

Coop

"Ed: Huh?? I'm not following you here. The ONLY thing that will make the blade loose is the pivot screw, right?? But if you tighten this to the proper friction, the blade is too far over center. This is what I'm deciphering. Hence the alignment needs to come from the shifting of the two liners (not the scales) from the hidden screws on the LH side. I'm not following where you would need longer screws. I'm so confused!!! "

Sorry, if i didn't explain it properly.. When I loosen the liner to liner screws (the ones with the flat head) I have to loosen it quite a bit before the alignment is centered. In fact, right now I have the blade less than a hair's width from the liner. I would like to give it a little more clearance. But if I do that.. I have to loosen the 2 screws to such an extent that the LH liner wobbles.

Please keep the pivot screw tight . There should be NO blade wobble at all. Then loosen the liner screws 1/2 a turn. Apply pressure to the liners in the direction you want the blade to sit (in the middle of the liners), then simply tighten the liner screws up. This will center the blade.
Then tune the blade opening and closing (pivot screw) to your liking. Do not overtighten the liner screws.

Martyn,
I'm in the UK too & got mine from B&Q.
No problems with it, but like you say, more of a toy than a serious tool.

Exscellent, another Brit. I thought I was on my own in here ;)

Yeah, I think the B&Q press is the same as the one from Wickes, again with a different badge - same price too.

I'm very pleased so far (especially for £40 quid).

Colin and Martyn, good to see a few of us 'over here' providing some competition for them 'over there' :)

Whereabouts are you both? I'm in sunny Gloucestershire. I expect to see knives from both of you soon!

Roger

Hi there.

I'm also in the UK. Down in Dorset. I've just been picking up info from this excellent forum before I bite the bullet and order my first kit.

Jumping several steps forward.....I'm quite keen on CF and will certainly be wanting to work with it after I've had sufficient practice with other materials. What tools will I be needing to cut and shape?

I have a friend of a friend who may be able to work CF for me, but that kind of defeats the entire purpose.

James

Hi James, Roger & Martyn,
Looks like there's a few of us, along with a couple I know.

How about looking at the pass around knife project & show these guys how Brits do it?

I'll be looking for you on that forum.


Colin

Chalk up another Brit (and knifekit virgin) here :)

Hey you guys! (Or is that 'blokes'?? ;) )

It's really cool to converse with like-minded folks no matter where the heck you are from. Even more so when there's a little distance involved! (BTW--I row with a number of Brits in my rowing club, and an American from our club just put together a veteran's UK/USA 'D' boat (50+ age) that won it's class in the UK Head of the River!! We're all connected!)

But talkin' knives--Look back a few posts to my DDR-1 carbon knife for some tips cutting it. Once cut, it works easily, but it's tough to cut!

Welcome to ALL the new faces. :)

Coop

Coop.

Love that CF job you did. Very classy indeed. Possibly the job which got me from the 'tempted' to the 'determined' stage :+)

I was thinking of using a Dremel with diamond wheel as prescribed by OspreyGuy earlier in the forum. If I make a hash of that, I will start begging some friends for workshop time so I can get access to more appropriate tools.

James

James,

Hey, thanks for your compliments. Yup, that one is a sweety! :D

PLEEEEAAASSE register and join us. You know you get a 50# note from EZBoard after you post over 100 posts. ;) he he he!!!

Cheers!

Coop

Coop.

Whaddayamean register? I figured that a global ezboard account was enough? Am I more newbie than I though??

Where do I get my 50-00 (GBP please!) and can I have the equivalent in kits? (Or a small deposit on one of Mr. Ralph's creations).

j/k of course :)

Quick question, Coop. I was trawling through the folders forum and there's an excellent (long) tutorial on producing a lockback folder from scratch posted by an aussie maker. How long does it take someone to get to that standard and what sort of tools would one need before one even thought about starting a job like that? (I'm not intending to...I'm just curious).

I think I can handle a kit with a Dremel (thanks to yours and OspreyGuys v. informative posts). But it looks like to make a knife from go takes a workshop so big I'd need to be paying US real estate prices :)

James

James,

You read Niel Charity's tutorial, I'm certain. And you're asking ME?? I'm flattered!

I'm just like you wondering the same thing. I have never done anything outside of a kit to date. I have just picked up a book ' How to make Knives' by Robt Loveless and Richard Barney. There is some real good info in there, as well as good pics. It's a little dated, having been written in the seventies, but I'm certain 95% of it still applies. It's more towards fixed blades, though.

Also I have just rec'd Gene Osborne's video of making a hunter, step by step. I haven't plugged that in yet. I find myself watching THIS screen too much. Ooops!

Good luck in your own quests!

Coop (BTW--the EZBoard payment is only in Euro's. Sorry to you!!!! ;) )

Euros?? ####! And on a Euro target holiday as well (I'm a banker....I have to know these geeky things). First we loose our steel industry to it, now I'm going to have to take gratuities in those strange, rather ugly, notes.

I ordered that book last weekend from Knifecenter.com along with a nice spydie nav and a chive. Can't wait to get my mits on it.

Can't wait until my exams are over at the end of this month too, so I can spend my weekends grinding CF and steel instead of sitting with my head in a journal :)

Thanks for all the advice.

James