Osprey Guy
06-02-2002, 11:18 PM
Some more improvements:
Added matching filework to spine of blade, mirror polished blade after removing thumbstuds. I heated the studs per Darrel's directions, heavily taped the jaws of two pairs of pliers and yet no matter how hard I tried, I was unable to get the studs off without slightly crimping them. While removed from the blade, I screwed the thumbstuds together and while holding half in my fingers, I carefully sanded and polished with my Dremel. They look OK (not great).
I need to get a macro lens for my camera to better show it off. The macro setting that comes with it doesn't let me get tight enough to really show you how good this looks in person.
Altogether, a major learning curve on this one.
For Coop: Regarding Dovetail and spacers-Once I set the table on my disc sander for 45 degrees I first ground the bolsters to match as best as possible (I did some additional hand sanding to make sure they matched perfectly). After matching the dovetail of the bolster with the carbon fiber, sanding the vulcanized red spacer to match the same 45 degrees, and sanding the Tiger Coral to the same 45 degrees as well, I glued all three spacer components to each other and then backed them up to a piece of red spacer roughly sized to the liner. I did this not only for the accent effect but to increase the strength of the joint of all three.
My neighbor has been making scale airplanes (the kind that are 10 feet+ and fly) for over 20 years and strongly suggested a glue that I've been using ever since..."Clear Siliconized Acrylic" from Ace Hardware item # 12589. Terrific bond. A sledge hammer won't break the hold, and it's nice and clear. (My neighbor uses it in the plane windows and the bond even survives crashes)
Filework: Traced curve of liner onto stainless (in this case 440C Blanchard ground). Cut out about 1/2" high using Dremel and "Gyros" brand fiber discs for Hard Steel-spraying with WD-40 every minute or two to keep it cool-still took awhile...that steel is tough stuff!. Sanded down piece using disc and belt sander until I was fairly close to size. Clamped steel piece in place between liners, marked drill holes, and drilled 1/16" pilot first (I'm glad I did this step, I was off slightly but able to correct with next size up) then 3/32" using drill press. (yeah, I finally got one). Hand sanded for closer fit. Put into bench clamp, marked off every 1/4", and roughed out "filework" with Dremel-using cone shaped grinding stone for curves and diamond wheel for horizontal lines. Had to seriously go back over everything with round and triangle files to really clean it up.
Oh yeah, had to be careful on blade not to go too deep/too close near thumbstud hole.
Hope you get the idea from these photos.
Dennis
a5.cpimg.com/image/4D/C8/...8017A-.jpg (http://a5.cpimg.com/image/4D/C8/10394445-70d8-01F8017A-.jpg)
a8.cpimg.com/image/50/C8/...8017A-.jpg (http://a8.cpimg.com/image/50/C8/10394448-7157-01F8017A-.jpg)
a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/...C0195-.jpg (http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/10394441-a5d2-021C0195-.jpg)
Added matching filework to spine of blade, mirror polished blade after removing thumbstuds. I heated the studs per Darrel's directions, heavily taped the jaws of two pairs of pliers and yet no matter how hard I tried, I was unable to get the studs off without slightly crimping them. While removed from the blade, I screwed the thumbstuds together and while holding half in my fingers, I carefully sanded and polished with my Dremel. They look OK (not great).
I need to get a macro lens for my camera to better show it off. The macro setting that comes with it doesn't let me get tight enough to really show you how good this looks in person.
Altogether, a major learning curve on this one.
For Coop: Regarding Dovetail and spacers-Once I set the table on my disc sander for 45 degrees I first ground the bolsters to match as best as possible (I did some additional hand sanding to make sure they matched perfectly). After matching the dovetail of the bolster with the carbon fiber, sanding the vulcanized red spacer to match the same 45 degrees, and sanding the Tiger Coral to the same 45 degrees as well, I glued all three spacer components to each other and then backed them up to a piece of red spacer roughly sized to the liner. I did this not only for the accent effect but to increase the strength of the joint of all three.
My neighbor has been making scale airplanes (the kind that are 10 feet+ and fly) for over 20 years and strongly suggested a glue that I've been using ever since..."Clear Siliconized Acrylic" from Ace Hardware item # 12589. Terrific bond. A sledge hammer won't break the hold, and it's nice and clear. (My neighbor uses it in the plane windows and the bond even survives crashes)
Filework: Traced curve of liner onto stainless (in this case 440C Blanchard ground). Cut out about 1/2" high using Dremel and "Gyros" brand fiber discs for Hard Steel-spraying with WD-40 every minute or two to keep it cool-still took awhile...that steel is tough stuff!. Sanded down piece using disc and belt sander until I was fairly close to size. Clamped steel piece in place between liners, marked drill holes, and drilled 1/16" pilot first (I'm glad I did this step, I was off slightly but able to correct with next size up) then 3/32" using drill press. (yeah, I finally got one). Hand sanded for closer fit. Put into bench clamp, marked off every 1/4", and roughed out "filework" with Dremel-using cone shaped grinding stone for curves and diamond wheel for horizontal lines. Had to seriously go back over everything with round and triangle files to really clean it up.
Oh yeah, had to be careful on blade not to go too deep/too close near thumbstud hole.
Hope you get the idea from these photos.
Dennis
a5.cpimg.com/image/4D/C8/...8017A-.jpg (http://a5.cpimg.com/image/4D/C8/10394445-70d8-01F8017A-.jpg)
a8.cpimg.com/image/50/C8/...8017A-.jpg (http://a8.cpimg.com/image/50/C8/10394448-7157-01F8017A-.jpg)
a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/...C0195-.jpg (http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/10394441-a5d2-021C0195-.jpg)