I tried doing some filework along the spine for the first time on a small warncliffe fixed blade. It looks OK but now that I have attached the handle I can't figure out how to get the epoxy out of the little holes. I used a triangle file and did alternate notches along the whole back of the blade where the handle is. The knife has front and back dovetailed bolsters and olive wood scales.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Steve

Although it might be too late for the knife in question, you have a couple of choices on future knives.

First, you can apply (carefully) a coat of Johnson's paste floor wax directly to the spine and filework, being careful not to get it on the sides of the tang. After you glue on the scales and the epoxy is set, the glue that squeezed out along the spine can be lifted right off.

Another option is to dye the epoxy a contrasting color, and make sure that all of the filework is filled with it when you glue on the scales. After it is set, the glue can be dressed flush with the spine and finished along with the rest of the handle.

I've put myself into this position once before too!:(

About 2 hours with a fine pick and an exacto knife got me through in "satisfactory" condition, that time.

Listen to Don!

I use beeswax to coat the spine & filework. I scrape the sides flat with a sharpened piece of brass flat stock then hand sand.
After the glue sets up the wax is easy to remove.

Regards,

James Fisher

Chlorinated solvents (nasty) will take off even cured epoxy (with some time). Uncured epoxy can sometimes be washed off with normal detergent or if not with acetone or MEK (less nasty).

TLM

Next time try cleaning out the epoxy as well as you can before it sets using pipe cleaners dry at first then use alcohol soaked ones. Just clip or bend the pipe cleaner and you have a new clean area to use. Dip about 1/3 of the pipe cleaner in the alcohol and squeeze the alcohol over the rest of the pipe cleaner, because if you soak the area in alcohol it will eat at the epoxy you want to stay in place. The epoxy will melt right off, when you do the final profile and clean up there is only a thin haze that cleans of easily.

I usually mix some black earth tone pigment and fill in the file work. It gives it a 3-D image. But, when I have a knife that I don't want to fill with epoxy, here's what I do...
After I have glued the handles on, tapped the pins through, and put on all the clamps underneath the knife, so the knife can sit and dry sitting on the clamps... I put the blade in my leather padded vise, then dip an old medium soft tooth brush in acetone and go to scrubbin! The claps have snugged up to the handle and since they are clamped tight, the aceton doesn't hurt anything or go where it shouldn't. I do this a couple of times then lightly blow it with the air hose. That usually does it for me, and tooth brush is way more effective than those darn pipe cleaners. Give er a try, I think you be pleased.

I have wondered how long this thread would go befor some one found the answer to this problum. It's real esey glue up the scales, steel the wifes white vinager use q- tips to clean up file work. Now I am not trying to be a smart ass but vinager is the best expoy clean up solvent there is. try it you will like it. Also works to clean up handes, tools and every thing els it gets on, just rubb with vinager and flush with water. Gib

Just don't use vinegar around mother of pearl unless you want mother of paste!

C Wilkins