Wayne Goddard asked himself a question in his column in Blade Magazne. Which provides the strongest bond epoxy or super glue? I have been wondering what every body uses and why. 5 minute epoxy is a no no in my shop. Where I live Arizona there is a lot of people that make jewelry when you ask about epoxy you get one answer eather 220 or 330 the onley difference is pot life 220 is 1, hr 330 is 20min I have used 220 for 7 or 8 years it will hold a crown stick on a blind
tang knife the onley way to remove it is with a hammer. It is economical when bought in 8 oz containers from Rio Grande
in Alburerque 1-800-545-6566 Brownells Acra Glass is the king of epozy but not a lot of pot life 10 - 15 min. K&G also sell a good epoxy. I use Super Glue for chip inlay and to stabalize antler. What other uses have knife makers found for these products, also tricks like playing with mix ratio?

I started with the K&G epoxy, switched to Devcon 30 minute for a short while, switched to the AcraGlas gel, and have been with it ever since. BTW, I suspect that K&G epoxy and AcraGlas are the same, or are very similar. I switched to the Devcon (briefly) for the quicker drying time. I found that it isn't very heat or water resistant, and stopped using it.
Regarding super glue, I haven't experimented with it much other than spacers and glueing bolsters together for shaping. If it is only as good as Devcon, I'll pass on considering it for using in handle attachment.

Brett

"I use Super Glue for chip inlay and to stabalize antler."

Hey Gib,

How do you go about that exactly?

Thanks,

JD

Joss To stablize a round peice I stand it on end on a peice of cardboard seal end with masking tape and fill it up with thin super glue it will take more than you would think finish with a squert of accelater. On antler that is cut into scales just lay them cut side up seal ends with masking tape and fillup and a squert of acclerator. The Acra Glass I was refering to is tha 4 to 1 ratio product that thay use to bed rifile stocks with out the glass floc this stuff is unbelivable in holding power.

Hey Cactusforge, I use and have had good success using Devcon 2 ton epoxy it really holds up for me. If anyone else out there has used it and had any bad experiences please let us know.......Thanks Skiffster

Skiffster,

I can only speak of a handfull of experiences myself, but I have been using Devcon 2-ton epoxy gell lately. As the name would imply, it comes out thick, which I like...I can spread it better as opposed to dripping all over the place. :p The drying color is cream, but I mix some black colorant to match the spacers I use.

To test it, I glued up two scrap pieces of wood and soaked it in water overnight. The next day I took a hammer to it on a concrete surface and the joint didn't break.

2 ton, water resistant, and gell form. Can't really beat that for the price...

Chris

I use shafting epoxy from Golfsmith. It is about like K&G or Acraglass...more than likely all the same thing from West Products.

The 2 keys to a good bond is to give it something to grip to and make sure it is clean. I use acetone to clean everything before epoxying.

Craig

cajun bones--the epoxies that i have seen break down from moisture (blood) usually happened from repeated exposure. wonder if you soaked several times how it would hold up?

I used the Devcon 2 ton to attach cultured marble scales to a cheap SS blade (no pins or rivets). Did the rough and final shaping and polishing after, hoping the blade would help prevent any shock from fracturing the marble. There is a BIG difference in the coeficients of expansion.
Well it held up to repeated washings in hot soapy water to remove grit, blood, rouge, etc. When it was done, I didn't like the overall shape and weight, Reshaped the entire handle profile (blade and scales) with more washings, still held up.
The only "problem" is shelf life of open containers (some say even unopened ones). I buy the "twin tube" dispensers and test the open ones before using on something important.

Oh yeah,
I believe the 2 ton is now labled "90 Min". I gave up on the "5 Min" stuff years ago, for anything important. Too inconstant.

I'll do some more testing and soak for longer periods just to see. I'm curious now as well...

Chris

I use Devcon 5 minnet and 2 ton epoxy, along with JB weld.

On full tange, I use the 5 minit to attach one side scale, use the pre-drilled tange for a drill guide, attach the other scale, drill from the other side. I then use Loveless bolts or pein the pins.

on hidden tanges I use Devcon 2 ton for most handles, which have eigther a pin or screwed on but cap.

I also use JB weld for a solderless gaurd.

The epoxy failed on my first few knives( which was probly do more to not haveing a rough, clean surface, and inexperiance). Since then all I use epoxy for is a seal, and to help hold things together long enough to pin them. If I were useing only epoxy to hold things together, I use JB, wich I have done on a few hidden tanges.

I havn't had one to fail since, even with multable trips trough the dishwasher and soaking in the sink for days at a time.

I know some people have good luck with adhisives, I just no longer trust "glue".

One of these days I will give Acur Glass a try.