I'm relatively new at making sheaths and have a problem dyeing the sheath. I'm using Fiebings leather dye on Weaver 7/8 oz Strap,Tooling & Moulding leather. I cut the sheath, mold it to shape using warm water, let dry thoroughly, finish sewing sheath and then apply the dye with a wool dauber. Problem is when I apply the dye it streaks and is not of a consistent color. Any suggestions on how to get a consistent application? Thanks.

If using waxed thread,you probably need to remove the wax residue.The wax will not allow the dye to penetrate as well. Oxalic acid can be bought at many leather supply shops and will remove the wax.


Hope this helps.
Mike

This is one reason I no longer use commercial dyes try the iron nitrate dye recipe i posted below.

I started as a leather crafter and found that a lot of the regular dyes tend to streak from time to time. Somtimes it could just be from the oils on your hands.

I tend to use only oil dyes and were latex gloves after I finish stitching.

Plan to try the iron nitrate stuff one of these days.

Just my 2cents worth

Mike

Thanks for the replies - I'll take the advice posted and hopefully find a solution to my problem.

Jim, try dying your sheath before forming. I actually like to cut the piece for the sheath and dampen it , while it is still wet apply the dye .

Dyeing leather is a very trying experience at best and a nightmare of exasperation at its worst. Unless you spray with spray guns you will be lucky to get an even finish. Even then, some leathers will dye unevenly (blotchy) or will appear to refuse to dye in some areas to the point you want to throw the article away. This will occur on one section of a piece of leather and dye like a charm six inches away. Of course it is almost impossible to spray dye on an article that is carved and has a background that is dyed in contrasting colors or shades. I have tried numerous ways to combat this bug-a-boo with limited success. I suggest that you make a test on a piece of scrap from the same piece of leather you are working on, dry, damp, after cleaning with oxalic acid, etc. Even a little thing like sneezing and have droplets land on the leather will prevent the lighter dyes from penetrating evenly and the spots will show. However, do not give up-----you can always dye it black!

I wet form, dry, stich belt loop, add welt, glue together with Barge cement. Then I drill the stiching holes with a 3/32" drill bit on the drill press. I dye with Fiebling oil dye at this point, THEN hand stitch. That way you can use contrasting thread like white on a dark stained sheath.

For black, you can't beat the dye made from vinegar and steel wool. It goes on even, penetrates really well and is not messy.
I took some into the local shoe repair guy the other day and he could not believe the quality. He has a couple of batches mixed up.

ghostdog

Interesting! How long does the steel wool have to sit in the vinegar before it's usable?

Bill, that sounds similar to one of George Franks' dyes for woodworking.

Tear the steel wool into small pieces, then soak in a plastic or glass container with vinegar until it's completely rusted. Stir occasionally.

Strain through cheesecloth and then filter through a coffee or chemical filter and bottle in glass or plastic.

Leon

Another tip that i have used with success for applying dye is to mix it with some neatsfoot oil (the ratio of mix will vary the color).Before applying make sure to mix/shack well .

Bill, futher down in this forum is a thread entitled "leather dye, long" started by cgilock. He explains it all in that thread.
Basically I found it took about 2 weeks for the dye to be ready.
A guy could use his metal filings instead of steel wool and save a buck or 2 as well. If you try it I think you will be sold. Biggest problem with it is the smell and that does go away.

ghostdog

Leather has a life of it's own, or rather it use to...but Sandy's point about the differences in the same piece of leather is a troubling one. I've found that the Fiebings Professional Oil day can spread an even coat but you have to wait a while for it to sink in, patience is a virture and it is evident when dyeing leather!

I wet form the folder sheaths I make...

Let them dry, I don't put them under lamps or in an oven, but just let them dry out, hint: As the sheath goes through the drying process, I put the folder back under the leather and work the leather with a bone folder during the drying process, about each hour during the drying session. I have the knife wrapped in clear plastic so the moisture doesn't transfer to the knife. The leather then has been stretched to form to the knife and that would cut down on the stretching that would normally happen if you didn't do that. My sheaths rely on a tight friction fit and looseness isn't a good thing!

After drying I dye the leather before applying glue, Barge Cement to the rescue! As noted above, the glue will prevent the dye from penetrating, didn't know about the wax on the thread but since I dye before I sew it hasn't been a problem.

Even with the time given, the dye can still end up with some streaks, I think it must be some harness in the leather that doesn't allow some sections to take the dye in. But it does give the leather a Wood grain look to it and some of my customers have said `Wow how did you get it to look that way?' I just said `Well it's just a technique I use...:) '

I like the look of White thread on brown leather as well, always a professional look to it!
G2

Hey Ghostdog i kinda like the smell i smell like it quite often. You might have something though. When i come in from the shop my wife pushes me away & tells me to go shower.