you all say use a mixture of wax and oil, be it bee's wax and neats foot, or someother version of....

why? what does the oil do? why not just dip in pure bee's wax? CAN i dip in just bee's wax? what other oils would substitute in place of the neat's foot oil?

also,I already posted this in the newbies section, but here is my second sheath(had to throw the first attempt away, it was ROCK hard and shriveled like a prune...)

http://www.fotango.com/p/eba00173405f00000004.jpg
http://www.fotango.com/p/eba00173405f00000003.jpg

Thanks,
Ben

Ben,

I'm sure that Don Cowles will jump in with why, but I followed his method and OHHHH Baby..........it works real well. :smokin:

This is a sheath from TKS that I did using Don's Method

http://www.fototime.com/E3A47CA460FA47D/standard.jpg

Bob Sigmon

looks good bob, and i'm with you, i'm sure there is a reason, just wondered why :) :)

I didn't invent the mix, but my inference is that the wax waterproofs, and the neatsfoot oil preserves and conditions the leather. Works for me.

K, good enough for me Don, thanks :)

Here's the sheath dipped, went much better this time


you can even see the plunge cut of the blade if you look closely :) :)


http://www.fotango.com/p/eba00173405f00000006.jpg


thanks,
Ben

Where can I read about Don Cowles method of making sheaths?

Thanks,
Ned

pub42.ezboard.com/fcustom...D=36.topic (http://pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm39.showMessage?topicI D=36.topic)

I used to have a saddle maker stich my sheaths, now I use a drill press and hand stitch. When I told the saddle maker I dipped in besswax and minkoil mixture, he said that was not good because I'm filling the natural pores in the leather, thereby not letting it "breathe" and trapping moisture. I now oil only and am wondering why the beeswax dip? I can see waterproofing, but Has anyone noticed leather decomposition with a wax dip over time? Another tip he told me to do was drill a hole in the bottom back for a drainage hole, especially user hunters. I really need to get back to Don's thread on magnets in the sheath. I think that's a really good idea.

Bill, for what it's worth, I don't use the dip at all on most of the small sheaths I make, because they are lined with pig or goat skin -but it is solid gold for the hunters, where I'm very faithful about it.

The combination of heat, oil, and wax almost makes the leather into a "natural" kydex. It becomes very stiff, takes a great polish, and will last a long, long time. I also put the hole in the bottom, but I fancy up a bit by putting a grommet or eyelet into the hole.

Bill, a local saddle maker told me the exact same thing, he also told me that waxed harness leather molds and mildews. Funny, he told me wax diped sheaths would do the same thing, havnt' noticed any green grouths on my dayly user yet.

I don't know, but I think most saddle makers are thinking in terms of leaving the leather out in the barn or in a trailer or shed, exposed to constant humidity.

I like the fact that a waxed diped sheath wont' absourb or trap mostier. I have heard of great resoults with Balistol Lube, one of these days I will give it a try.

Don, I got one pound of beeswax and a 4 ounce bottle of neatsfoot oil. Do I melt the wax in my crock pot and then pour in the oil?

I already did three sheaths with just the wax and they came out very nice and hard as a rock.

Ned, I have an old garage sale electric skillet that I keep full of equal parts of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It is sort of a waxy, yellowish solid. I turn it on when I want to dunk some sheaths -- it takes 15 to 20 minutes to come up to temperature, which is long enough for me to preheat the sheath in a toaster over to about 180 degrees F.

Point is, once it cools down, it doesn't stay liquid. Heat 'em together, and they'll stay that way.