Hello,
What kind of finishes do you all use on non-stabilized woods? I use a linseed oil based finish called Tru-Coat that I have for use on long rifle stocks. It seems to work fine, but I've not had a chance to try it under real rough conditions.
Also, what are some good sources for stabilized woods?

Josh Blount
Wytheville, VA

Thanks to helping my son make several bass guitars , I've been experimenting with many different wood finishes, and keep returning to Tru-Oil for even, consistent results - preceeded by application of a decent sealer.
Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Finish, however, looks like it might work well, with faster drying, and better durability.

The only non-stabilized woods that I use on knife handles are desert ironwood and snakewood, neither of which requires any finish beyond buffing and a coat of wax.

Try WSSI or K&G for stabilized wood.

I had bought a quart of Minwax sanding sealer a few months ago and just started using it on a few handles just the last few days. I do alot of cocobolo and have never used anything except wax. The last couple I did I'd put the sealer on with a paper towel and then hit it with the handle dryer, hair dryer which I haven't needed for years. It dries in less than a minute then go to the buff and the difference was unbeleivable. I go down to 320 before I apply the sealer. I'm thinking it does about the same thing as Fixit that I believe Texas Knife Makers sells. Ray

What about Rosewood? I just got a couple of blocks and was going to wax and buff, but then I saw a pic of a factory knife with a 'stabilized rosewood handle'. I didnt' think it was posible to stabilize rose wood.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

If it's a factory knife, I suspect that it is the "rosewood" color of pakkawood. Rosewood is too oily to accept stabilization.

That's kinda what I thought, thanks