I love the look of Damascus but don't know much about it. In spite of my lack of knowledge, I dove in feet first and bought a set of those beautiful Mosaic Damascus-Eggerling Bolsters from Texas Knife thinking I'd just figure out what to do with them afterwards.
I was thinking of replacing the set of bolsters that come with one of the KnifeKits folders (I'm getting better and better at customizing these knives and figured that Damascus was the next logical step for embellishment.

Now my question is this: What do I do with it? I think I can figure out how to get the bolsters shaped to fit properly...a little careful trial and error. (I've never made my own bolsters before...nothing like starting at the top...I'm sorta forced to do a good job-they're too expensive to screw up!). Before (or after) they are ready to be fitted am I supposed to do anything to the steel? Since it's function in this case is decorative I imagine it doesn't require heat treatment. I've seen several references in the forums to "etching damascus" but don't know what that accomplishes and if that applies in this case. There's a fair amount of info scattered around the forums about making your own Damascus. But there doesn't seem to be any one place to go where I can learn the basics about Damascus and what to do with this "pre-made" steel I've got on my hands.

When I've finished learning how to make these bolsters, It will probably be time for me to take a shot at my first blade. My home "shop" is beginning to take shape rather quickly. The KnifeKits did their job well...they''re quickly sucking me into knifemaking (and I can't remember when I've had so much non-stop satisfaction!).

Please fill me in about the mosaic damascus.
Thanks,
Dennis

Dennis- just a word to the wise- I would strongly recommend making a set of bolsters of 416 stainless first, because the mistakes won't cost you near as much money. If you are comfortable with the process at that point, then go for it and do the Eggerling damascus ones.

After you have shaped and finished the bolsters, they will look like plain steel with no real visible pattern. The reason for etching is to bring out the pattern by removing some of the softer steel in the pattern.

The etching medium is ferric chloride, sold by Radio Shack as "Printed Circuit Board Etchant." Dilute it with 2 or 3 parts of distilled water to one part etchant, and warm it above 120 deg. F. Immerse the bolsters (wear rubber gloves for this) for about a minute, look them over, and decide if you need to repeat. If needed, you can do this several times. It helps to rinse them off between dunks with hot running water, and rubbing the surfaces being etched to knock off any loose oxides.

The reason for not using the etchant at full strength (you'd think it would work more quickly) is that it is so strong that it agressively removes both the softer and the harder steels, so you are no farther ahead than when you started.

When you are satisfied with the pattern, rinse them in a solution of TSP (trisodium phosphate, available at the hardware store) to neutralize, then clear water again, and dry them very well. They will rust almost instantly if you don't. A coat of wax, oil, or silicon will help prevent this when they are mounted on the knife.

Hope this helps- holler if you have questions.

I knew that I could count on you to give me just the info i was seeking...
You are of course, right about trying the bolsters on something a little less precious. I happen to have a pretty good size bar of 440C ground to 5/32". This is the steel I used for my latest backspacer (you know the one)...any reason why I couldn't use some of this for the "practice" bolster?

Silly question perhaps, but what do you use to heat the solution to over 120 deg. F.?

Thanks,
Dennis

Dennis,
I use a hot plate with a thermostat control and heat a separate pan of water, with the etching solution in another container sitting in that water. Sort of a double boiler concept which I adapted after a glass container cracked and poured solution all over my workbench a few years ago.
To add to Don's comments on the damascus bolsters:
- no heat treating is needed (but heat application with a torch, after etching, might bring out some interesting colors).
- make sure that you flatten the backs of the bolsters - sandpaper on a sheet of plate glass is cheap and works.
- to line up the bolsters for drilling of screw holes, I glue them to the liners with a drop of cyanocrylic and drill them a bit undersize, following the hole pattern in the liners, then enlarge and countersink the holes when ready attachment.
- with other than random patterns, try to shape the bolsters together so as to keep the patterns matching on both sides when finished.
- ferric chloride, available from Radio Shack as Etchant, works well and without fumes. Muriatic acid, available at any hardware store, also works very well, but gives off caustic fumes and should be done outdoors.
Kelly

I am interested in perhaps trying out my little (but pretty powerful-up to 3100 degrees!) butane torch that might bring out some "interesting color". The operative word is "might". What do I do if the color is not interesting? Can I sand it off and try again?

Looks like I'll be headed for radio shack tomorrow.

I've got a lot on my plate...Today I received the Ivory Micarta and Mosaic Pin material that I've decided on for that "Kitchen Knife" commission I received from my neighbor last week. I hear that Ivory Micarta can be all kinds of fun, especially when dealing with pins in the handle. Oh well, just more interesting stuff for me to learn.

Dennis

440C should work just fine for the practice pieces. I am not sure how effective heat coloring is on stainless (looks great on carbon steel and on titanium), but yes, you can sand it off if you don't like it.

Kelly's tip on using glue to hold parts together is a good one. Since I am a "belt and suspenders" kind of guy, I would add a clamp to the glued parts just for insurance.

Agreed - a clamp also helps, and I do use both to insure alignment, having had a few irritating shifts in the past.
I use the flexible type of cyanocrylic for this kind of temporary positioning as it is easy to break the bond and clean up.
I've seen a lot of comments on problems cleaning white micarta in the forums, but have found that the various gunscrubber sprays do an excellent job of blowing away sanding residue and stains that migrate from the pins into the micarta. Sometimes a little additional soap an water is needed, followed by a good wax. DemBart's paste wax for gunstocks, available from Brownell's, has some kind of solvent residue that appears to lift any final traces out and also produces a nice finish as a final step.
I don't buff white micarta, just keep moving along with progressively finer grits of sandpaper, and wonder if buffing might be the cause of the problem stains mentioned frequently?

Buffing white micarta can be a pain. I no longer do it but when I did I took Primos' advise and cleaned up the finished product with TOPAL smokers toothpaste. It gets all that grime out of the pores. Now I just progressively work my way to 1500 grit and let it go. I hardly use micarta anymore but I do like it.

I've picked up most of what I need for everything we discussed here. Just a couple more quick questions:

When I mentioned trying out the torch for color I was specifically talking about trying out on the Damascus Bolsters. If unhappy with the resulting color can it be easily sanded off as with any other kind of steel?

Kelly-The Cyan product you mentioned...would that be like one of the Cyan Super Glue products carried by Texas Knife Supply and if so which one is flexible? (I just want to make sure I don't put down some adhesive that will create problems when I try to get it off) TKS carries 7 product numbers of Cyan glue. Any other alternative that's worked for you, that I might pick up in a local hardware store? I've got plenty of Super Glue and Future Glue...
+ Devcon Epoxy (30 minute) and a great Siliconized Acrylic Caulk by Ace (product #12589) which I now use for most of my knifework needs (this was recommended by my neighbor who's been making "to scale" airplanes (the kind with over 10 foot wingspans that fly) for over 20 years and considered one of the best makers in the region. Says this is the best adhesive he's ever used...so far I agree. It dries clear, waterproof, and strong as anything I've encountered. But I don't know which of these will be easy to get up once laid down.

Thanks,
Dennis

You can sand the color off the steel, and a tiny drop of any super glue will do the job.

I get the flexible super glue from Micro-Mark, but I'll second Don's response - any super glue will do, and the bond breaks more easily than any of the epoxies which I use. Just use a drop, and, when ready to separate, press or tap a thin blade, like an exacto knife at a seam. The residue cleans up easily with any of the super glue solvents and/or a little scraping with the same exacto knife. If you happen to overdo the super glue application, and can't break it mechanically, it should separate easily at no more than about 200 degrees.
For epoxy, I like Brownell's Accra-Weld, and find its much stronger and more durable than the Devcon types I've tried.
Its not quite clear, but I usually add some coloration for blending, just in case I missed a small space.
I will try the ACE product which you mentioned as it seems I'm always trying to bond something - from knife scales to guitar bodies, and an occasional body part.

The neighbor I keep talking about is a longtime fan of Micro-Mark.
He gave me my first catalog from them as a "gift"...I've never forgiven him for all the money it keeps costing me...heh, heh.
He and I both feel the same way about Devcon adhesives...don't like 'em. I've yet to find any real fault with the Ace product...Easy to handle, goes on white but dries clear...starts to set up in 30 minutes...most Ace Hardware stores stock it,...comes in a big, red&white 5.5 oz tube (looks like your buying a tube of regular caulk) enough to last a good long while, and it's cheap!

Having said all that I'm going to have to find a replacement glue for use with the Mosaic Pin material I'm using for that set of kitchen knives. I just noticed that the glue's instructions say "Not recommended for use on Brass or Copper Alloys." So much for the "no fault" adhesive.

I'll give the Brownell's a try.

Thanks,

Dennis

You san do a very fine job of coloring cadbon steel damascus in your kitchen oven. It is far more controlable than a torch of any kind and you will with a little care be able to chose a color. First finish the bolsters right donw and polish. Do not etch for this proceedure. Set your oven to approx. 425 degrees to start. The colors you can see in order are gold,maroon, brown maroon,and blue. Of course one of these will only be the main color and the twists and turns may show other colors perhaps several different ones.Wait until the oven comes up to temp and then place your bolsters outside surface down on a very clean metal pan. After approx. 10 minutes open the door and check the color-- you may find a flashlight handy to see better by. Do not take the pan out of the oven unless the color is what you want. If the color does not seem to be happening increase your temp 25 degress and continue to check in another five or so minutes. If you do want to "go back" on the colors then just repolish the surface and start again. In the end if you are not pleased with the results you can then etch the steel. Frank Niro

Sounds cool!

Although I now have all of my etch materials on hand, I'm going to give that a try first. The thought of those colors as you talked about them had me salivating.

Thanks for the psychedelic idea.

In one thread I got more info than several days of searching! Is this place great or what?

Dennis

Dennis - you're staying up too late researching knifemaking.
Pretty soon you'll have to retire early from your income producing employment (as I did last year) in order to find enough time to pursue this quest for making the perfect knife.

Kelly-

Funny you should say that. While sitting down over a cup of coffee this afternoon, my wife and I had a "talk" about the hours I've been keeping of late. Although I've been a night owl in the extreme for my entire life, lately my hours have gotten a little funky even for me. Since starting up with knifemaking, some nights I'm even coming to bed just as my wife is beginning to awaken (she's a high school math teacher and gets up at 5:00am every day). Obviously, the dreaded Knifemaking Virus has taken me over, body and soul.

(I had several paragraphs here all about my health, divine providence, "meant-to-be", etc. Perhaps at 2:00am I do tend to ramble on a bit...sorry about that).

The point is over the years I've picked up a lot of interests and acquired some areas of expertise along the way, but I've never taken to anything the way I have to knifemaking. I'm really enjoying this and we'll just have to see where it leads.

Dennis

I can understand rambling at 2:00 am, but followed up with an email to your listed address since we sort of lost the Eggerling damascus bolster thread along the way.