Well I said I'd post a review of my Coote after I got it up and running, so here it is, especially for those of you looking for that mid-range grinder to really get you started.

I got the 10" wheel, 2" x 72" with the knife rest and both recommended pulleys.

So far I like it... although all I really have to compare it to is a Delta 1/4 HP 1 x 30! Ironically the motor I'm using on the Coote is labelled a 1/4 HP, but it clearly has -much- more power than the Delta. It works fine, but slows down on the heavy stock removal. I'm going to order the recommended 1 HP motor unless someone thinks a 1 1/2 would be better.

BTW: Anyone out there know how HP gets determined? I have anecdotal evidence that it is fairly arbitrary and that the value of a HP has slowly gone down over the past 20-30 years as more manufacturers up the claim on power... the motor I have now is from the 60's. Just wondering.

The increase in surface area contributes both to faster cutting and stability of the blade against the platen. The increased stability seems to very much help with clean grind lines. I'm thinking it isn't such a bad idea that I've spent the past year on a crap little grinder! I've got a steady hand and a great sense of feel against the platen. I'm getting uber-clean lines now! I used to have problems with grits above 180 or so on my Delta. They would clog instantly and get -way- too hot. This doesn't seem to be a problem with the new machine and I had hardly any hand work to do on some hardened damascus blades I finished today.

Only complaint I have is some sympathetic vibration on the slow speed. I think it comes from some combination of the slightly springy wooden surface I bolted the grinder onto and the belt. Loosening the belt helped a lot, which was counter-intuitive for me, but hey, try the logical first and then get random... I am going to make a heavy but moveable metal stand to bolt the machine to ( and to affix a dust collection port ) - I think that will solve the problem.

So I've only ever played a little on something like, say, a Bader III. I feel like this is comparable but a little less versatile. ( That having been said I can't wait to play hollow-grind! ) The motor is up to you, which also helps; I've been shopping around and expect to pay about $120.00 for a new 1 HP motor. Add that to the cost of the grinder ( with shipping, bells and whistles...) and I've spent about $600 for a machine that hollow grinds, flat grinds, slack grinds and has adjustable speeds. Compare that to a Bader with adjustable motor at $1600.00

Not too bad...

Jonathan,

If you look closely, you will probably find that the claimed 1/4 HP of your Delta is 'maximum developed', which basically means that is what it will develop at failure.
I would recommend the 1 1/2 HP motor just because you may need it someday and I suspect it would last longer (less strain). I have two 1 HP motors, one variable DC, and while I haven't stalled the motors in normal use, I could, especially when they are heated up. Either way, it is a big improvement over 1/4 HP.
Aren't new tools great? :)

Brett

Jon- I'm with Brett in recommending the 1 1/2 HP motor. I am able to stall the 1 1/4 HP variable speed motor on my Burr King (I have to work at it, but it can be done). More is better.

The formula for determining horsepower is pretty specific, and shouldn't be subject to deterioration over time. Here are a few examples:

One HP = 33000 ft./lbs. per minute (torque)
One HP = 746 watts (electrical power)
One HP = 42.4 BTU (heat)

I think you will find that prices on motors do not vary all that much if you go for a 1.5 or a 2.5

I say go as high as possible.....I have a 4.0/3.5 2speed mototr on mine.....you can´t make that stall.....it does not even go slower...it just starts working. I have been roughing out 1/4 ATS and put all the weigt in I possible could....nothing!

Bigger is better on a grinder! I too started out having a 1/4H.....it really sucks when you only have to look at it to make it stop.

If you're running off of 220 or have a dedicated 20 amp line, then go with the 1.5 HP, if you're working off of regular household current like 110 go with the 1HP.

I bought one of the pre-wired (had to reverse it) 1.5 HP motors from harbor freight for $80 and it's been going strong for over a year and I can't stall it out, but I don't do heavy stock removal anyways. I've also got a 1 HP Sears industrial hardwheel grinder I use for profiling and hogging and I don't think there's any way I could stall it out . So HP rating is probably arbitrary to a point. I run both of these off of 120, the 1.5HP will throw the circuit if anything else is plugged in and the 1HP won't throw the circuit no matter how heavy the work load (except on startup).

Is the vibration in the platen? If so, you might need to cross-brace it somehow.

How's the tracking on the coote?

John, I've got a 1 1/2 horse on my old coots with an 8" contact wheel. I started out with a 2 horse and prefered it but went to a 1 1/2 after the 2 horse burnt out. The 1 1/2 works fine for most opperations but does slow down if you hog it to much. Maybe with the 10" wheel the 1 1/2 will be fine. I think its a heck of a tool for the price. Watch those knuckles. Ray

Thanks all for the input-

The formulae for the HP are helpful- yet just today someone was telling me that old motors '...had more torque,' It makes sense to me that HP -should- be standard, at any rate.

I'll go 1 1/2 then, just to be sure. Vroom!

Oh, I been watching those knuckles... exposed belt-driven tools are a new addition to the shop and I still picture a finger going "Swoosh!" right around the wheel. Eeeew! Bye-bye Mister Finger! :eek:

P.S. Glad I'm not the only one, Jens!

the grinder I started with was a combination machine with disk and belt...see them everywhere....they really suck...I only use it for the disk and that is even very underpowered at 1/4 for a 5" disk.

I had to flatgrind my workrest and thought that I could do it on the old one....forgot how bad it is...the weight of it was almost enough to make it stall.....those grinders sucks...for the double amount of what it original costed I was able to built the new badass grinder...and I pay half for the belts for the new one....

Get ALL the H/P you can.
Your tools need to do the work for you.
That's why we use them.