which one (size) [Archive] - The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions

Bob Warner

09-04-2001, 03:11 PM

Jim,

Welcome to the CKD forum. You may want to register to become a member instead of an "unregistered user".

First, lets understand that the people talking about these wheels and belts are talking about belt GRINDERS and not just your avarage woodworking 4" X 36" Sears belt sander.

On most belt grinders there are three wheels (there are exceptions), one is the drive wheel that is turned by the motor, the second is the idler wheel that controls the tracking of the belt on the wheels and the third is the contact wheel. When there is talk about contact wheels the 10" or 8" refers to the diameter of the wheel. I would suggest that most knifemakers use an 8" or 10" contact wheel that is 2" wide. The contact wheel is the wheel on a belt grinder that you actually put your steel against to grind it. It is kind of an industry standard to use 2" X 72" belts because they are readily available from the knife supply stores and abrasive companies. Another reason for this length is that anything shorter can heat up and not have time to cool down during the next revolution, reducing the lifespan of the belt. The longer the belt the better (withiin reason) as long as you can avoid slack in the belt.

So, as a beginner you may not have a grinder and need to get one. But maybe your bank account won't allow you to spend $1500 - $2000 for a grinder. So you start looking for less expensive options. A 4"X36" belt sander from Sears will work fine for flat grinding out some blades and only costs about $100-$150. However it will probably not last very long using it for harder work than it was designed. But if you can make a few knives and sell them, you can upgrade to something better when it goes out. That is why there are so many different sizes and types of sanders and grinders in use.

Now, lets say you do have a few bucks you can afford to spend on a good belt grinder. You need to decide your types of grinds you will want to do, flat grind, hollow grind, etc.... A good belt grinder will have a contact wheel for hollow grinding, the diameter of the wheel will determine how "hollow" your grind will be depending on your steel size. You would not want to use a small wheel on a big knife because the "Hollow" would be very deep and after grinding both sides of the knife you could actually grind through the blade in the center. So for a big blade, a large diameter would be most common. A small diameter wheel would work fine for a folding knife blade since it is small. Some makers want the biggest wheel they can get, others change them up depending on what look they are trying to get. You can also get a platten to mount on your belt grinder for flat grinding.

The best recommendation I can make to you is to buy the BEST you can afford, whatever you get.

Go here: www.geocities.com/beaumontmetal/ (http://www.geocities.com/beaumontmetal/) and see what Rob can do. Rob is a CKD member and can make you just about anything you want. He can build to your design or sell you his design.

Go here: www.knifeandgun.com/bader_grinder.asp (http://www.knifeandgun.com/bader_grinder.asp) to see one of the more popular grinders available.

Hopefully we can get Mike Connor to post a picture of the home built grinder he made. He previously posted it but Photopoint will not allow it to display anymore. This is a first class grinder and shows how well some people can do making their own.

Come back with more questions if you have any or if I did not answer your questions adequately.

Geno

09-04-2001, 07:30 PM

Hi Jim, and Welcome!
Big wheels make larger curves for the bevel grinds, small wheels make short curves for the radius of the bevel.
Large wheels simulate a flatter grind in appearance. The small wheel makes a dramatic, more pronounced curve.
Serrated wheels are for roughing metal out, not reccommended for finishing work.
Most common belt sizes are 2 X72 for knifemaking, and 2X60.
I use a small 6" wheel for folders, and sometimes a 8", or a 10" wheel for larger knives with bigger curves.
4"x?'s are mostly for wood working, and 1"X?'s are for hobby use.
Motor needs to be at least 1HP and variable speeds are nice.
A good grinder will do most of your work for you, don't skimp here! A good grinder will be a friend for a long time. :)


The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Tool Time > which one (size) PDA View Full Version : which one (size) Jim 09-04-2001, 02:17 PM I am new to all this, and hear you guys talke about 12" wheels.10",8",6" wheels, I hear about one guy uses a 1and 38 belts,1 and 72. 4 and 96. I know these are the size of belts they use ,but why? Me as a newbe what schould I be looking at in size of sander belts? Thanks Jim KandSKNIVES 09-04-2001, 03:07 PM Welcom Jim, first of all, we need to know, what type grinder and size. Different brands of grinders use different sizes of grinding belts. The smaller grinders are, use as knife grinders, 1x30, 1x42, and2x48. The larger, standard sizes, are 2x60 and 2x72. There could be variations to this, as many grinders are shop built and may require an odd size belt. Different size wheels are needed for hollow grinding the blades. The size of the wheels is determined by the width of the blade and how far the HG goes into the blade. I hope this explains things and give you a little more reference to terminology and it's meanings. KEN (WWJD) Bob Warner 09-04-2001, 03:11 PM Jim, Welcome to the CKD forum. You may want to register to become a member instead of an "unregistered user". First, lets understand that the people talking about these wheels and belts are talking about belt GRINDERS and not just your avarage woodworking 4" X 36" Sears belt sander. On most belt grinders there are three wheels (there are exceptions), one is the drive wheel that is turned by the motor, the second is the idler wheel that controls the tracking of the belt on the wheels and the third is the contact wheel. When there is talk about contact wheels the 10" or 8" refers to the diameter of the wheel. I would suggest that most knifemakers use an 8" or 10" contact wheel that is 2" wide. The contact wheel is the wheel on a belt grinder that you actually put your steel against to grind it. It is kind of an industry standard to use 2" X 72" belts because they are readily available from the knife supply stores and abrasive companies. Another reason for this length is that anything shorter can heat up and not have time to cool down during the next revolution, reducing the lifespan of the belt. The longer the belt the better (withiin reason) as long as you can avoid slack in the belt. So, as a beginner you may not have a grinder and need to get one. But maybe your bank account won't allow you to spend $1500 - $2000 for a grinder. So you start looking for less expensive options. A 4"X36" belt sander from Sears will work fine for flat grinding out some blades and only costs about $100-$150. However it will probably not last very long using it for harder work than it was designed. But if you can make a few knives and sell them, you can upgrade to something better when it goes out. That is why there are so many different sizes and types of sanders and grinders in use. Now, lets say you do have a few bucks you can afford to spend on a good belt grinder. You need to decide your types of grinds you will want to do, flat grind, hollow grind, etc.... A good belt grinder will have a contact wheel for hollow grinding, the diameter of the wheel will determine how "hollow" your grind will be depending on your steel size. You would not want to use a small wheel on a big knife because the "Hollow" would be very deep and after grinding both sides of the knife you could actually grind through the blade in the center. So for a big blade, a large diameter would be most common. A small diameter wheel would work fine for a folding knife blade since it is small. Some makers want the biggest wheel they can get, others change them up depending on what look they are trying to get. You can also get a platten to mount on your belt grinder for flat grinding. The best recommendation I can make to you is to buy the BEST you can afford, whatever you get. Go here: www.geocities.com/beaumontmetal/ (http://www.geocities.com/beaumontmetal/) and see what Rob can do. Rob is a CKD member and can make you just about anything you want. He can build to your design or sell you his design. Go here: www.knifeandgun.com/bader_grinder.asp (http://www.knifeandgun.com/bader_grinder.asp) to see one of the more popular grinders available. Hopefully we can get Mike Connor to post a picture of the home built grinder he made. He previously posted it but Photopoint will not allow it to display anymore. This is a first class grinder and shows how well some people can do making their own. Come back with more questions if you have any or if I did not answer your questions adequately. Geno 09-04-2001, 07:30 PM Hi Jim, and Welcome! Big wheels make larger curves for the bevel grinds, small wheels make short curves for the radius of the bevel. Large wheels simulate a flatter grind in appearance. The small wheel makes a dramatic, more pronounced curve. Serrated wheels are for roughing metal out, not reccommended for finishing work. Most common belt sizes are 2 X72 for knifemaking, and 2X60. I use a small 6" wheel for folders, and sometimes a 8", or a 10" wheel for larger knives with bigger curves. 4"x?'s are mostly for wood working, and 1"X?'s are for hobby use. Motor needs to be at least 1HP and variable speeds are nice. A good grinder will do most of your work for you, don't skimp here! A good grinder will be a friend for a long time. :)