This is my flexhead grinding jig for hollow grinding 2 pieces of 3"x ¼" aluminum angle that has been slotted on one side and tapped (1/4 - 20) on the other.
Mine is on a mini-mill head table and can be adjusted by a hand crank.

http://www.centercross.com/shop/flexhead01.jpg

Bolted together they form a "C"shape and can make adjustments in two directions - up/down for centerline and in and out away from the wheel for depth.
http://www.centercross.com/shop/flexhead.jpg
A heavy plate is bolted to the top for a worktable and a heavy block is clamped in place as a backrest for the blade to slide against.
http://www.centercross.com/shop/flexhead06.jpg
This assembly provides a smooth track to pull the blade back and forth across the wheel and make a perfect hollow grind time after time.
It's inexpensive and very reliable once you get used to it.
This is featured in my Hunter video.
It teaches you the basics for the more complex grinds you'll do later by hand.
I hope this answers some of y'all's questions.

Gene,
Now I have a much better idea how you create those great knives. Your photography is real good also. ;)

I normally do not use a grinding jig, however, for the video I wanted to get people grinding that would not concider free-hand grinding yet.
Using the jig helps you to see ALL the fine points of grinding without the risks involved. You can watch the shoulders being cut in, guage the web thickness, symatry, ect...while grinding.
It clearly shows how the bevel has to ride in it's craddle against the wheel.
It can be a GREAT way to start grinding for yourself.
You can enjoy the speed, accuracy, and ease of a jig that is quite simple to build.
It is basically two pieces of angle bolted together w/slots.
A 30 minute jig can save you hours of work, money, and fustration.
Steve,
You know my motto: Work Smarter-Not Harder ! :)

I want a jig for flat grinding--for the very reasons you mention. Koval sells a jig, but it's primarily for hollow grinds; there is a similar jig in the current issue of Blade, but nobody answers the phone. I would like to find something i could build myself (no machinist training or special tools), and would be very grateful for any plans or suggestions.

Hello Tony,
I posted this to show how easy it is to build a grinding jig yourself. Not everyone has access to the machining tools.

The jig you have would probably work if you could mount it on the platten part of the machine instead of the wheel. Can you drill and tap mounting holes for the jig?

I don't know anyone who makes a special jig for flat grinds.
They pretty much all work the same, a guided tracking system.
I don't take the time to draw up plans for the stuff I make. The photos are it for any record. Most of these tools take longer to draw than build, in this case anyway.

You don't need a mill to make this either.
The slots can be cut with a dremil tool at home.

Hope this helps.
..................................BE BLESSED.................................

Tony, If you have a table that is set up on your grinder all you need is a piece of angle iron that will slide on the table. I will usually drill holes in the tang and bolt the blade to the angle iron. Adjust the table to the angle you want and the angle iron will hold the blade square to the table. I've tried for years to come up with something that would work, this was so simple it took me six years to find it. Ray

Good job on the photos, Gene.

On your video it looks as if the jig is spring loaded or something- you keep pulling something back to slip the blade into the channel... how does that part work?

Thanks again for your teriffic job on the video!

Dave

Dave,
There is a slight flex because of the angles used.
I use that flex for clearance, loading the blade.
It springs back to true 90 degrees when I let go.

Hi Gene,

One more detail please. Do I have this right? On the edge of the heavy plate facing the grinding wheel there appears to be an angle iron about 2" long, I assume one each side. The part of the angle iron that is above the plate and the face of the heavy upper "brick" of steel form the slot that guides the blade steel as you move it across the wheel to grind the hollow - right?

Thanks for the photos. I got a pretty good idea how this jig/guide worked from the video but these photos really clear things up.

Best,
John

Yes, It is the rear guide for the blade.One on each side of the wheel.They need to be fairly short.