Gene,

In your video your have a machine to stamp your blades, do you know of any jigs that are available for hand stamping of a blade?

Thanks,

Bob Sigmon

bob
here is a jig hand stamper from what I have heard
they make really good stamps there phone is
1-800-55-evers
to web page is
members.aol.com/everstamp (http://members.aol.com/everstamp)
hope this helps Nathan

Thanks for the sppedy info, Nathan.

I'll contact them next week.

Bob Sigmon

PS. I have gotten alot of good info from many of your other post and appreciate all the sources and tips.

I thank you for the complament,We are all here to help each other ,I am glad it helped you out
Nathan

Nathan,
I edited your post to make the url a link. However when I went to it, I could not see the stamp.

bob
I tried it also there ad is in the November 2001 on page 90
of the blade magazine there is an http:// before the rest of the web address I don't know if that will make a difference
Nathan

The is assumed by the browser. You don't have to type it. There just must be a problem with their site.

Guys,
It appears that the site may be going through a transition. The old site can be found at:

hometown.aol.com/everstamp/page/index.htm (http://hometown.aol.com/everstamp/page/index.htm)

On that page they make reference to their new site and provide a link to:

www.henryaevers.com/ (http://www.henryaevers.com/)

Looks they have moved the site and are setting up their own domain. Apparently everything is not ready yet -- the link doesn't work.

Thanks Terry.

I thought it was kinda odd to advertise and put in a URL that was not really available yet. Hopefully they will recognize the problem and fix it or redirect it to the old site.

The stamp I use was mounted in an old hole puncher.(You don't need)
The guide block is what you need.
A solid block of steel that has a groove cut in it for a straight guide. It helps you to hit the punch squarely, time after time.
The guide block will help you to get that perfect print from your stamp and keep you from hammering your fingers too.
Hope it helps.

Thanks Gene,

I'm going to check what is available from Evers, first.

Otherwise, I'll have to get busy with the mill and make something up.

Thanks again for the great video.

Bob Sigmon

You are very welcome for the video, I'm glad it is helping so many, now.
A little instruction CAN go a long way in this business.
If you can't find what you need at Henry Evers place, I have a mill and can help, too.
I like the impression that a good stamp makes, it looks so proffessional.
A stamp will never rub off like a stencil will, either.

The Evers Tang Stamp Holder is for Folder Blades only.
No way to reposition to mark the blade if it has a full tang.

Oh well,

To the drawing board.

The Evers Tang Stamp Holder is $135.00

I should be able to make a holder for considerably less.

Thanks for all the input.

Bob Sigmon

The block allows you to stamp anything you want, squarely and cleanly.
Do you have a square stamp or rectangle?
Before you spend alot of money, call me.817 4518243
We can get you a guide for your stamp, somehow.

I use a Evers stamp. I ordered the one that fits their stamp holder but I use an arbor press for my stamp machine. I bought a cheap press from harbor freight (1 ton) had a slot milled in the ram. Drilled a hole and tapped for a set screw to hold the stamp in the ram. Now I put my blades on there hold the lever down to hold the stamp in place and whalop the stuffing out of the ram with my hammer. As many times as I need to. :) Don't move or shift.

Regards

Tony,

Thanks for the tip. I'll check out the local tool supplier, those smaller presses aren't very expensive.

It's not what you know, it's who you know. Everyone at CKD are fantastic!

Thanks,

Bob Sigmon

Wow, I thought I was on track when I just ordered my stamp from Evers. I did pass on their stamp base because it was only for folder blades. Now I've got to worry about whether it will be a square or rectangular. I wonder if the Riverside Stampholder would work on either one? Maybe Gene has stampholder ideas? Gotta figure this one out, I've already ordered by stamp!--Dan

Hi,
here's a picture of a shop made jig that Dave Larsen built and posted in a thread on bf. He said one of the uprights along the stamp is in slotted holes to accomdate different width stamps
Regards, Greg.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1376892]

I like stamps ,but i HATE it when i get a double stamp.There are etching machines out there to be had for less then a custom stamp set-up(press,holders,etc...) will cost you.No question of creating stress risers,double stamping,and you can finish a blade and then mark it.Absolutely great for those knives that some one wants personalized.

I have to agree with you, Mike, I like etching much better than stamping.

I have heard some say that it is easy to scratch or wipe off. I etch as deep as most stamps, this shortens the life of the stencils, but makes the mark permanent.

Gene asked me to post pictures of his stamping set up.
Pat

http://centercross.com/images/punch.jpg

http://centercross.com/images/punch1.jpg

http://centercross.com/images/punch2.jpg

http://centercross.com/images/punch3.jpg

The block you see is all you need to make perfect stamps.
It centers enerything and keeps the stamp square to the blade, shows you where the mark will be, and prevents double stamping.
It is simple and cheap.
2X2X4 solid block with a groove cut for the shaft of your stamp.

Well, I finally got around to getting an Arbor Press at the suggestion of Terry Huffman. I milled in the 3/8" slot for my stamp, put in two set screws and man does it work great. It holds the work tightly to the anvil and can take multiple hits, as Terry had said it would. It really make a great impression.

Thanks for all of the input.

Bob Sigmon

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1790029&a=13865657&p=55164918

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1790029&a=13865657&p=55164921

The stamp on the right side that can hardly be seen was done by hand. The impression was pretty light and very light on the right side. The impression on the left was done on the arbor press with two strikes. Nice and deep, very clean impression.

Bob Sigmon

The biggest advantage is that the guide will hold the stamp square for a flat print.
If the stamp is heavy on the top or bottom, it does not look professional, it must print evenly.
It is also best to do with ONE hit of the hammer (with NO bounce). If it takes two swings, get a larger hammer.
(again why I use a press)

Thanks for the tip, Gene.

This little press holds the stamp plumb and totally flat to the blade. I haven't stamped any blades yet just test pieces. I'll post some pictures as things progress.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!

Bob Sigmon

I'm just bringing this back around to answer questions that are still being asked,OK?:smokin

Well, having forgotten totally about this thread until Gene brought it back up.....................

Here is a pic of the Stamp Press that I made using a 1 ton press from Harbor Freight. You just hold the stamp down against the blade and use the hand actuated 3 lb Hammer and give it one H of a wack.

http://www.fototime.com/15F79FD972F6833/standard.jpg

Here is a totally crummy pic of the stamp impression, it really is nice in person.

http://www.fototime.com/151962C3F9E54FB/standard.jpg

It works very well!

Bob Sigmon

Now that is what they should look like.
Crisp and clean with NO caffiene. :)

Bob,

I ordered my stamp from Evers a couple of years ago. I then went to Uncle Al's and bought his stamp master. Work's great!--Dan

Dan,

Good to hear from you!

I made mine months before I saw a thread about Uncle Al's. I have a small mill (luckily) and was able to mill the slot in the Harbor Freight Press. It made for a pretty cheap date and like you say it works!

Bob Sigmon

Thanks everyone for the info on stamping, just so happens I have punch press that I traded for thinking it would do for forging pure copper for my trinkets/medallions, it's maybe a 2 ton job, found out I can do more work with a 2 1/2 pound hand hammer forging copper than the press, not like a power hammer, if it doesn't cycle through the stroke, dud, it just stops and more work than it's worth. I am a begginer at punch presses but think it would be great for dedicated stamping, still something to play with.

I hot stamp my forged work by hand with homemade stamps, got some great ideas from your posts. Thr forums are a great source of information, thanks CKD for putting up with us iron pounders.

If you hit something too hard, it STOPS the machine cold.
There is no recoil to these machines.
I set my depth for an 1/8" blade. If I stamp a 1/16" blade with it, I just shim the bottom up 1/16" and hit it, it equals out to 1/8", and so on.
Stamps are the only thing I use it for.

Bob, how exactly did you attach the stamp to the arbor press? Looks like a great and inexpensive setup. I'm guessing that it must have been much less than the $97.50 that Uncle Al is charging for his Stampmaster.

Peter,

If you have a mill (like in your video) it is very easy. Get the Harbor Freight 1 ton arbor press, mill a slot in the front face of the ram to match the size of your stamp. Mine runs front to back with the top of the letters toward the left side. Drill two holes and tap for set screws and you are done!

Bob Sigmon