I just received my copy of Mr. Shadley's chapter on making multiblades. We went on and on in another thread about obtaining a copy of his book. Anyway, I notice that he inlets his liners very slightly, using a mill. No specifics about this - how deep, etc. But it looks like the result is to provide full support for the tang all the way through the arc from fully open to closed; while eliminating all other contact/friction between the tang-end of the blade and liners. I haven't seen or read of anyone else doing this. Do they? Is this technique just for multies? By the way, the area of the liner underneath the tang and spring are left alone, so these pieces remain on the same plane, and supported.
Rebecca

Hi dont post much here but this might help http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_lockback_charity.shtml

The reason for relieving the insides of the liners and leaving an arc around the pivot is to keep the liners from scratching the blade as it opens and closes. This way the blade only touches the circle around the pivot.

Another way to do this is to use a washer on each side of the blade pivot pin, but that leaves a visible gap around the blade at the pivot.

The reason for relieving the insides of the liners and leaving an arc around the pivot is to keep the liners from scratching the blade as it opens and closes. This way the blade only touches the circle around the pivot.

Another way to do this is to use a washer on each side of the blade pivot pin, but that leaves a visible gap around the blade at the pivot.

Yup, I've tried the washer and it looks really bad. I don't have a mill but I wonder if I might get the same effect (as inletting) by brazing two pieces of liner material together, with the inside piece cut out.
Rebecca

Sharpen the end of a 6" or so file and scrape the material away, leaving the circle around the pivot.

Scribe a circle around the pivot that comes just a little short of touching the front of the liner. The inside of the circle is now your washer. Scrape away a little amount toward the back end of the liner where the blade might touch the liner. It doesn't take much. The blade usually only touches the liners close to the pivot.

Yup, I've tried the washer and it looks really bad. I don't have a mill but I wonder if I might get the same effect (as inletting) by brazing two pieces of liner material together, with the inside piece cut out.
Rebecca


Yep, that'll work great, but you'll have double thick liners.

If you have a Dremel or Foredom tool. just mount a grinding wheel or a sanding disk and grind away.

Yep, that'll work great, but you'll have double thick liners.

I had thought to use two pieces which together add up to about .040. I could cut out the piece that goes next to the blade to approximate the inletting you would do with a mill. Then braze them together. So I would have about .040 liner underneath the spring, tang, etc. Isn't that about what would happen if you started out with a .040 liner and inlet slightly in the right area so there would be less friction between the tang and liner?
Rebecca

Sharpen the end of a 6" or so file and scrape the material away, leaving the circle around the pivot.

Scribe a circle around the pivot that comes just a little short of touching the front of the liner. The inside of the circle is now your washer. Scrape away a little amount toward the back end of the liner where the blade might touch the liner. It doesn't take much. The blade usually only touches the liners close to the pivot.

I have such a hard time visualizing. Do you mean scribe the circle around the pivot pin hole and leave this area high, removing all the rest of the material? I'm having a hard time visualizing what to scrape away....
Rebecca

I had thought to use two pieces which together add up to about .040. I could cut out the piece that goes next to the blade to approximate the inletting you would do with a mill. Then braze them together. So I would have about .040 liner underneath the spring, tang, etc. Isn't that about what would happen if you started out with a .040 liner and inlet slightly in the right area so there would be less friction between the tang and liner?
Rebecca

Yes, that'll work great and you won't be able to see the difference once it's assembled.

Good idea!:101

I have such a hard time visualizing. Do you mean scribe the circle around the pivot pin hole and leave this area high, removing all the rest of the material? I'm having a hard time visualizing what to scrape away....
Rebecca

Yes, that's right.