I promised to report on how I polish a blade:

After seeing it done many different ways, from using 220x, then 500x, then a worn out 500x with grease applied, then buffing with coarse and then fine buffing compound; or from a 220x to a waterless glue-based compound, then buffing with coarse and then fine compound and various other techniques, I came upon this method. It works for me, may or may not work for you.

After finish grinding with a 50x, or 60x belt after heat treat, (LOOK SERIOUSLY INTO USING CUBITRON BELTS, THEY ARE WELL WORTH THE EXTRA COST!) we go to a new 400x Aluminum Oxide belt, preferably in "J" weight, as "J-flex" is too flexible and "X"-weight is too stiff, in my opinion. This new 400x belt will wipe out 60x or 50x scratches very easily and very quickly. The finish left form a brand new 400x is still a little bit too rough for the next step, so after I do 2-4 blades with the new belt, depending upon the size of the blades, I then go over the first one or two with the more worn 400x belt that I started with.

The new green Trizact belts with the "tire tread" design on the face of the belt do a great job. I use the 350-400x belt in place of the 400x ALOX now. (I've been told that the A45 belt is 350x by one supplier and that it is 400x by another, either way, it's working pretty well so far).

Next, thanks to advice form Mr. Yancy, over in Colorado many years ago, about 1978-79, perhaps, we take a 400 x CORK BELT that has been "broken in," and go over the 400x finish left by the previous belt, until all those scratches are gone. Use a fair amount of RCH's Green Chrome buffing compound on these cork belts. You can push pretty hard.

After a thorough going over with the 400x cork, I go to a 600x or 800x Cork belt, also broken in and also using Green Chrome. It's hard to see the scratches, but a few minutes on this belt will clean up all the previous 400x cork scratches.

Then the final buffing, with the Green Chrome on the buffer, polishes the blade in less than 1-2 minute's time.

To break in the cork belts, put them on the grinder with a tool rest in place. Using a scrap piece of blade steel, or whatever, wear on that belt for a good 10 minutes. Be careful not to "break" the corners, or edges, of the belt too aggressively, or all the cork and polishing media will peel off. Buffing compound helps here, I think, in making it easier to "fold" around the edge of the wheel a little. You do need to slightly break or round the corners of the belt around the edge of the wheel, however, but be careful not to overdo it. It is smelly and dirty for that 10 min, but it takes that long (10 min. by the clock) to break the belt in.

A new cork belt looks like a 36 grit AlOX belt, it's so rough. When it's broken in, it has some smooth spots, some valleys and starts taking on a smoother, slightly shiny appearance. Use the buffing compound during the "break-in." Be advised tht it takes some pressure, and time to do the job. You don't want to peel off cork, you are trying to just smmooth out the surface of the belt somewhat.

These belts will then last you 2-3 years, assuming that you do 50-100 knives per year. Take a little care with the edges, as I've noted above. Use ample compound. Hopefully, you might be as happy with this process as I am. The cork belt is the best thing to come along in many a year, as far as I'm concerned.

Some use the new Trizact belts and love them. I haven't warmed up to them yet. Are there any users out there who can train us on how to use them correctly? Someone told me to use very light pressure while polishing/grinding with them... Maybe this could be new post/thread on this forum?

Let me know if you have any questions or comments.

G'day Steve,
I've been using 3M trisac belts for over 2 years now, I slack belt grind and polish my folder frames with them. I use A65, A30, A16 and A6 "grits" and I've found them almost indistructible as they wear they seem to polish smooth and not cut as much, to date I never worn one out, the edges start to fray and tear before it stop cutting.
I have a new 600 grit cork belt that I had made up as a sample. It looks like a 60 grit belt so I haven't used it yet. My question is, what is going to happen if I use it, as is, on a blade?
Regards from Australia.

Neil initially the cork belt will cut like a 600 grit belt but as the tops of the knobs are knocked off the finish will become finer and finer until the belt is relativly flat, at that point it is time to add the green or white compound to get a superfinishing belt. You use these things until the cloth begins to show through. I treat them as a replacement for the A6 belt or even a little finer finsh than the A6.

Where can you get these belts? Are they expensive (relative to a couple year working life)?

I got mine from Jantz- around $6 each.

I've purchased cork belts from the following:

Stephen Bader, Co.: 518-753-4457 Fax: 513-753-4962
They probably only have a few left and may not be getting more, as the Trizact and film belts are much more popular, according to Dan Johnson, of Bader, with whom I've worked for many years.

Dan also warns that once-in-a-while you'll get a hard spot from the adhesive that holds the cork onto the belt and get an errant scratch. This is remedied by breaking the belt in VERY WELL, as I suggested above in the report on my polishing process.

Another suplier is: Tru-Grit in California: 800-532-3336

And, Jim Poplin of Washington GA: (706)678-2729, has quite a few on hand.

You'll pay aroung $6-8 per belt, but they last for 1-3 years, literally.

Remember, this works for me, the Trizact or, perhaps, the Film (Micron) belts might be better for you. I'm bound and determined to figure out the Trizact, some say that they never wear out. In fact, Dan Johnson joked that they're considering "Leasing" out the Trizact, rather than selling them, since no one seems to ever re-order, they last so long! But I have no intention of quitting the cork method, at this point. They are just soooo good, in my opininion, in blending lines and curves and doing a great job.

Steve,
Thank you for your polishing secrets ! After the cork belts I buffed for about 10 minutes,
Far less time than I usually take. I used green 50/50 on the 400 grit cork and pure green
chrome on the 500 grit belt. The corks are very easy to use and conform to the hollows
very nicely. Thanks again !, Best Regards,
Dave

Dave, glad it was of help to you.

I use RCH Green Chrome (SS 306, I believe) [However, currently, I use the white chrome compound, SS300, exclusively, then the buffing wheel doesn't have the green in it when I buff a handle that is prone to picking up dark compound, such as bighorn, some woods, etc.] on both belts and also the buffer and can buff a hunter in 2 min. Of course that's when I do a good thorough job on the belting steps with the cork.

Any good final polishing compound ought to work fine, if you're having success with it as a final polishing medium.

I am surprised that you dont use any medium grit belts in your polishing technique.....I have always found that if I jump like that there are is a washboard effect left from the coarse grit.....maybe I dont go far enough with the 400 grit.....never liked those cork belts much....the trizacs work great and last quite a while....but I like the film belts the best. They wear out fairly fast (Ionly use the 15 micron ones) but they wear VERY evenly and leave a smoother and smoother and smoother scratch pattern as you use them......ps. steve would you be going to the oregon show in april?

Like I noted above, Tom, I've used many a polishing technique and the cork is my favorite. I found that a new 400x will literally "wipe" off the 60x scratches, in just a minute ottwo on a hunter, and I don't seem to have a problem with "washboard." Maybe it's the smooth, fairly soft, wheel that I use. (Maybe my old eyes can't see the ripples???)

I appreciate your comments on the Trizact belts, I need to give them more time in my shop. Same with the film belts. Glad to know that they are short-lived for you too... Any specific tips on using these two types?

I guess I'm used to the "blending" ability of the cork and find it hard to switch. They work pretty fast for me, also. Do produce heat, however. Guess there are a million polishing techniques out there.

Thank you.

UPDATE: I use almost exclusively the Trizact 400X "tractor pattern" belt now, instead of the aluminum oxide. You know, the green one with slanted pattern, called "Gator?"
It's called: 3M Trizact CF Belts 2 x 72" A45X (400 Grit)

If you just can't get it to polish good, Steve, just send me the knife. I will dispose of it properly for you:)

I'll do that, Bob. However, this is a little "Gent's Knife" with a 2 1/2" Wharncliffe blade that would have no place is a commado's kit.

But as to polishing: Maybe we can take shifts. I'll hit it with 400x and you can take over with the 400 cork; or maybe a 600x silicon carbide belt would work??

Oh, Tom. I won't be in Oregon, though I'd love to, Dorothy is from Ore.

My next stops are NYC @ ECCKS on March 9 & 10, thenback out west to Solvang on April 27-28 and then at the Guild Show in Orlando on July27-28.

I will be at ECCKS! I will be spending most of my time at Johnny Stout's table, please come by and say hello.

Also We're working on getting together for dinner on either Fri. or Sat.

Jerry, I'll be sure to drop by Johnny's table. Dinner sounds fun, I'd sure like to come, if I'm not being too presumptuous, and if I can arrange it.

You'd be more than welcome. I belong to another "forum", actually it's an e-mail list called the TKCL is.dal.ca/%7Etotalgsd/tkc-l/ (http://is.dal.ca/%7Etotalgsd/tkc-l/) we've been organizing dinners at most of the knife shows that we attend. There are a lot of cross over people here at CKD that are also from TKCL. The Blade Show usually gets a big turn out and we (the NY contingent of TKCL) usually manage to get a dinner going after the two NY Shows.

Right now it looks like the TKCL dinner will be Saturday night. I will also be attending a dinner Friday with a few knife bud's and all will be welcome. I don't have a fixed list for either night, and while I've suggested a place for Saturday night it hasn't been confirmed yet, But I will be there! Usually we try for a reservation about a hour after the show closes. At the last dinner in NY we had in attendance, Allen & Valerie Elishewitz, Larry Connelly from Knife Art, Les DeAsis and family (of Benchmade), Mel Pardue, Howard Viele and Larry Harley of boar hunting fame, plus the TKCL crowd!

As we get closer to the event dates I will post more info.