http://members.shaw.ca/brierleyforge/baldormotor.jpg

I bought the above motor for my home built grinder which I am going to wire with 220. I have one of those industrial size start / stop switches that I want to affix to the grinder frame.

I superimposed a pic of the switch onto the pic of the motor. can someone give me an idea how to wire that.

The faster I finish this thing the faster I can meke my knives. Thanks to anyone who can give advise.

Go with the High voltage wiring diagram. The two lines should go to the switch. The switch should have some kind of diagram showing where the power comes in and the load goes out. I'd have to see this diagram to give you an absolute answer.

Is this a double pole double throw start stop switch? Does this motor have built in short circuit and or overload protection? How much horsepower?

Is this a double pole double throw start stop switch? Does this motor have built in short circuit and or overload protection? How much horsepower?
Having a DPST (Double Pole, Single Throw) type switch is important with a high-voltage motor. A SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switch will work, but if something were to happen and a short occurred in the motor, you wouldn't be able to turn it off! I've seen it happen. If you're gonna be reversing the motor, a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) is what you're after.

'Notherwords, we need more info on your switch.

http://members.shaw.ca/brierleyforge/baldormotorplate.jpg
http://members.shaw.ca/brierleyforge/startstopback.jpg


Thanks guys for your feedback. Below is the homebuilt monster that I am almost finished.

http://members.shaw.ca/brierleyforge/beltgrinder10.jpg

You would be looking for a symbol like this or similar

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:DPST-symbol.png

I assume red is aligned with stop and green is aligned with on button?

With this motor being OPEN and not TEFC I don't recommend you use it on a grinder and find a TEFC motor. It does not have thermal protection either. You should consider a motor starter which is what I suspect the switch you have was used in conjunction with originally.

http://www.baldor.com/products/detail.asp?1=1&catalog=L1319T&product=AC+Motors&family=General+Purpose%7Cvw%5FACMotors%5FGeneralPu rpose&winding=35WG0371&rating=40C+AMB%2DCONT

https://vip.baldor.com/VIP/baldorProductPDFServlet?connection=CD0001

Good catch, Sam. I didn't notice that it was an open motor.

David, by open we mean that there are vents that allow air to get inside the motor. Unfortunately, it also allows metal filings to get in there as well. Metal filings inside an electrical device -- Sure recipe for disaster.

Find yourself a good motor repair shop. They'll probably have some rebuilt motors (just as good as new, IMO) and they may be able to work a trade with you for a TEFC (totally enclosed, fan-cooled) motor. That's the way to go for this application.