Still got some big time grinding to level the bolsters to the G10 but its looking better. It is heavy as a rhinos hind leg but guess thats what ya get for using 416ss not TI. It has 3/64ths of bolster to grind down to meet G10 ! Need a surface grinder.Comments welcome and wanted.

Dave

http://www.baldcowboy.com/images/bolsterslarge.JPG ( city folk )
http://www.baldcowboy.com/images/bolsterssmall.JPG ( backwoods )

:lol

Living out here in the backwoods as I do, I probably spend more time staring at odd thins than some people do. So, take it from me when I saw that as rhinocerous hind legs go, that's not bad!

On the next one, consider spreading out the locations of the two screws so that they are further from the pivot, or leave them where they are and add a third one near the edge of the bolster, or move one of the screws nearer the edge of the bolster. With the screws in a tight cluster like that, and the bolster being so long, there is a tiny chance that the leverage involved there would allow the bolster to rotate slightly if the back end of the bolster were ever to receive a sharp blow. It's not terribly likely but, if you're like me, you build your folders strong and don't want to leave anything to chance....

That looks like it is coming along nice, good work.
Is the blade grind just a preperation grind or is that your final grind prior to HT.

Added a 3rd screw close to the junction.I also made a small indentation by screws on inside of G10 just to make sure they dont press out the scales also did the bolsters above the stop pin. I was going to leave it till HT to grind anymore. Hardened steel grinds nicely :) Most use some type of device to hold bolsters up against the belt with ?

Dave

I took the bolsters (which were bought as .125 416 SS and measured .185 !!! ) down to close to the G10 size tonite.Those orange "hawg" belts do really eat the metal. Now just need to true the up to the G10 somehow.I ll be buying .125 TI next time so this is just a practice run.

Dave