Tell me how you keep from losing small parts. I know the little containers work well, like fly boxes, screw/nut boxes, etc. and I use them. Other ideas?

I use 35mm film containers for some things, like holding/storing gold shavings and scraps, until I have enough to recycle
.
When you drop a little part on the floor, what is your immediate reaction? For me, I try to do nothing but watch it to see where it falls and follow it with my eye until it stops. Moving my feet out of the way helps aviod a ricochet off of the foot and into the farthest corner of the shop. If you can watch the fall and the path, you can often keep an eye on it until it stops, rather than scrambling after it and losing sight of the little bounder.

Just a random thought on this New Year's Day of 2002. (There, I wrote 2002 for the first time and didn't even write 2001 instead.) Well, now I did, I guess. Have a great and safe one.

Any little tricks, or tips could be added below, and they'd be appreciated, I know.

Just FYI, the next post will be number 900 on the SRJ Forum. Man, that's a lot of talkin'! Hope it wa sworth everyone's time, certainly was for me. Thanks!

Great post, Steve, and I'm glad to know I'm not alone. My natural reaction when I drop a small part (ALL the time, by the way) is to shut my eyes tight and screech. Much more productive to keep them open and try to watch it.

In truth, I wind up calling my wife about half the time- she has a better eye for these things than I do, and often will go right to it after I have been loking for it for 5 or 10 minutes.

I use small drawers, tiny zip-lock bags, film cannisters, or anything else that will allow me to keep things organized and secure. I too recycle gold clippings/sweeps, and I have a couple of drawers of ivory and mother of pearl cutoffs that I use for beads, inlays, and other small projects.

By the way, my Torit dust collector is up and running, and I am very pleased with its efficiency and its sound level.

Happy new year to all!

I have a couple of things I do. First I keep small parts like screw, taps and drill bits together by putting them in the large Tabasco bottles. All 2-56 screws, 2-56 taps and #50 drills are all in the same tabasco bottle. I do that with most things, keep all of the associated items together so I don't have to look for them.

I also took a large cookie sheet and epoxied two big strong magnets under it. When I need something out fo the Tabasco bottle I just our the contents of the bottle into the cookie sheet. "MOST" things will stick to the magnets and will keep them from going anywhere. I have a metal desk in my shop and the cookie tray just stickes to the desk. When you drop something either the magnet stops it from bouncing away or the cookie tray catches it.

But that's just me.

Great ideas, guys. Thanks for clueing us in.

Don, I'm very happy that dust collector is working well. I was afraid that it might be too small. But, hey, if the clothes are cleaner, I'm happy! I think you'll enjoy it. It really isn't that noisy. Wife's opinion?

Would you mind posting a folow-up on the original thread, when you have time, of course.

Bob, Tabasco bottles, hmmm, neat idea? Keeping everything of the same size in one bottle makes sense. The magnets and cookie sheet sound like a good idea.

Thanks again.

I just bought a small desk drawer organizer that has a low profile and different size compartments. I am experimenting with it to store folders in progress. Bolsters and screws have their own compartment, spine and screws has its own compartment, etc. I will see how it works over time.

I store my sheet sandpaper in stackable plastic file holders (you knwo, in box/out box kind of thing) and that works great. It saves space and they are all in size order so I don't fumble around looking for them.

Since I don't have a compressor, I use canned air to clean stuff and get into the small places. It works really well with wood. After I have sanded a set of scales to almost finished, I blast the wood with the canned air, and it cleans out any cracks or crevasses that might be hidden by dust. Fill with superglue, and I know there won't be any surprises down the road.

I store my sandpaper like Dogman. I have learned over time that it is best to store the paper grit down so you don't get any "BIG" grinding dust on the really fine stuff.

Another suggestion that I saw somewhere was to mount a sheet of plywood to the ceiling and attach baby food jars. You can just look through the bottom of the jars for what you want, unscrew it and take the jar down. I have about 50 jars that I got from a friend and will be trying this soon.

The desktop organizer sounds like a good idea. Especially since I have a heavy metal desk in the shop.

Also, Dogman I don't know how you live without an air compressor. Do we need to takeup a collection to get you one?

Sure, and while you are at it, but me a heat treat oven, a surface grinder, a mill, another disk sander, a Hardcore Grinder...:)

Personally, I think canned air is a great idea.

Thanks, Bob & Bob. Looking for some plastic letter trays.

The bottles would almost work on a wall, too, unless you filled the bottles too full.....Interesting.

I have more tips here www.warnerknives.com/shoptips.htm (http://www.warnerknives.com/shoptips.htm)

I like the golf balls for file handles and automotive air conditioner clutches used as electromagnetic chucks.

Thanks a million, Bob! Super suggestions.

Everybody: Go to his "Tips" site. It is very interesting and well worth the time. I like that golf ball idea and willl be trying it out. Read the respirator tip.
Here it is again:

www.warnerknives.com/shoptips.htm (http://www.warnerknives.com/shoptips.htm)

When working withn small parts on a folder I work over a rubber car mat the type that has the square pattern on it. When you drop one of the parts it is bound to be trapped in one of the squares.

Baby food jars make good see through containers.
Screw the lids to an overhanging shelf and the jars attatch in an out of the way place.Make rows for storage that is easily seen and gotten to.
Just look up to find the 1/8 rivets, and unscrew the jar for easy access, when finished, just screw the jar back in place overhead and out of the way.

Tupperware! you can get all sorts of size and you can see what's inside. I use them to store motor parts after washing, but before assembly. masking tape and a marker to label anything going into long term storage!

Hope my wife doesn't read that, Jerry....

Well, if she has some tupperware that is going into the trash, you can recycle it for parts storage. Ya recyclying , your saving the environment and everything :)

Yeah. That's what I'l tell her.

Thanks! (As he departs on his quest for the aged and ancient and polluting T-ware....)

Great ideas, all.

This isn't much but my knife maker friends will tell you about the many uses for masking tape I find in my shop. If you want to lay a polished blade flat or folder blade liners on your grinder tableor on your drill table to work on, have no fear just use a piece of masking tape underneath. A quick hold on end for a set up pin can be a drill bit with masking tape wrapped about the end. Another helper that a newer maker may not know about is to make a T out of masking tape with the sticky side at the outside f the top of the T and to place this against thin materials for sanding when they cannot be held with a small magnet to work on. Not too complicated but perhaps helpfull to someone. Frank Niro.

I can see this thread going on for a loonnnng time! We'll have to rename it "Tips never End." Lots of good stuff already and much more to come, I'm sure. At least I hope!

Thanks Peter and Frank, and everyone. Good ideas that could take years to figure out by one's self.

I just put a couple of 2" strips of masking tape down on my desk top and mix my epoxy on it. After I am done, just peel it up and trash it.

Have you ever discovered that you have a small void in the solder job and you have just epoxied your handles on? Get you some of the atomized stainless steel from Brownell's, mix with a bit of epoxy and fill the void with a pin or a toothpick and when it dries clean it up with a piece of brass, buff it and you won't be able to find it. It will look dark gray when it sets up, but it will buff out like the solder. I've never tried it with JB Weld, but it should work with it too. I have mixed some with some epoxy I dyed and it gave it a silver speckled look when it was finished and buffed.
Tom

Have any of you tried the blue masking tape? It makes less of a mess on the blade when you're ready to take it off, if you cover teh blade to protect it after it's polished and soldered, or the bolsters are in place. I doens't want to stick at times, but is a lot less hassle to remove. R. Velarde informed me about it.

I may try that blue masking tape. My blades spend a lot of time taped up for various operations during construction. When the tape has been on for a while it will leave a behind a horribly gunky mess when removed. The absolute best thing I've found for cleanup is a spritz of WD-40. While we think of WD-40 as slippery like a lubricant, I believe it is technically more of a slovent. It will desolve the tape residue in seconds. The gunk will easily come off by wiping it with toilet paper.

Be sure to clean the blade, etc. first with naptha and the tape will adhear a bit better.

Bob Sigmon

PS: Don't forget to clean your hands to keep oils & etc off the adhesive.

There are many grades of masking tape. In Auto painting, sometimes you need a tape that will not stick to well, because if it does it remove the paint when you peel it off. All you knifemakers complain about hand sanding. try hand sanding a car down to 2000 not once, but 5-6 times.

I use old manila folders, cut to size and wrapped with masking tape instead of taping directly to the blade and they are reusable.I have a box full.I also use the bottom of a beer can for mixing epoxy.Nice and clean perfect size,and I suppose soda cans would work for the non-drinkers.I use some scrap .062" aluminum for blade templates.Dave

We've opened the floodgates. Keep them ideas a commin'.

Thank you, all.

For sanding, go to the auto parts body shop store and pick up some squee-gees these are 2" X 3" rubber squares that we in the custom car game use as the backing for the sand paper when we sand cars. You can also pick up rubber sanding blocks, that are designed to have stiffness but still some flex in them. They are usually set up so that you can fold and tear a piece of sandpaper into 3 or 4 pieces and the teeth will hold the paper to the block. These are what we use on the flat sections of cars. the squee-gees flex more and are great for sanding curves. We wet sand car bodies (water) and keep that paper clean! If you let it build up it will scratch the paint (or finish in the case of a knife)

Well here is another "simple" one (aren't they all} that I just found to use yesterday. When drilling some materials like mammoth ivory or pearl-using a little oil to help the drilling the little bits (yes that's what is there name, by the way}- clog up real dad. Trying to use your finger nail the clear the bit while it is moving may work but watch out if it catches you! The EASY way to go that does a way better job is to use a tooth brush while the bit is turning. Frank Niro.

Great!
I'm always wondering which drill for which ball, or screw.

Good, and safer, idea on cleaning the drill bits, too.

Thanks!

I've found that when I do drop something on the floor, the easiest way to find it is to get a flashlight with a focused beam (maglight, etc.) and put the flashlight on the floor such that the beam becomes a 'searchlight' -- with a cone of light across a piece of the floor. Now slowly rotate the flashlight so the beam sweeps the floor and it's much easier to find the item since the light will highlight the item and the shadow it casts makes it 'bigger' and easier to see.

Mix your epoxy on a coffee can lid, let the waste dry and bend the lid to remove, it's ready to use next time. It peels right off.

Put a throw rug under your assembly bench so when you drop something, it isn't dented or scratched.It keeps tips from breaking too when the blade falls.
I don't know why a finished blade seems to ALWAYS hit on the tip.

Put masking tape on pearl, and fragile materials before cutting with a band saw, it keeps the chipping down to a minimum.

I have a big magnet tied onto a string. When I drop something metal(that I can't see),I swing the magnet back and forth about 1/2" from the ground and that magnet WILL find it for me.(along with the other metal stuff down there :) )

In cold weather, use a blow dryer to warm up all the parts before gluing.It helps it to stick better and squeezes out thinner for a cleaner finished look.

When hand sanding on the flat plate, the thinner parts that are hard to hold, can be held with a little molding clay.It comes right back off ready for the next part.When that blob gets full of sand and won't hold anymore, just throw that wad away and get some more. It is a cheep fix for sore fingers.

More later if you need them. :)

Oh ya, The blow dryer is also a good personal heater in the winter too.
When cold, just lift up your shirt and blow the warm air inside, then close the shirt quickly. The heat will knock the chill right off of you.It's amazing!

The easiest way I've found to clean up after mixing epoxy is to mix it on a package of note pads. After you're done just peel off the top note pad and throw away. Any distributor is glad to give you all the note pads with there advertising on them that you want so I have a constant supply of them.

Gary

Thanks everyone.

If we're not careful, we're going to have to categorize all these tips! Heat Treat, Finishing, Grinding, Assembly, Machining, Lost and Found, Safety, Personal Heaters, etc., etc., etc.

This is great!

Last night I was peening some 1/16" pins on little thin ferrules and I thought that I'd try it while using my "Opti-Visor." Give it a try, you can see every tap and see the effect of same, allowing you to control the peening process and keep the pin straight, etc. It helped a lot.

I just tried the heat gun under the shirt.

Do you have to pay the fire dept. for visits
to your shop?

first..get a handfull of those little bar magnets..
throw them around under your workbench...
clean out about once a week..month whatever..
just remove good screws ect from them and put them
back...
second..take a drawer..build it if you have to..
it will be long..wide..not too deep..couple inches..
and put it on rails so it slides in and out from under the top of your workbench.. put some of the bumpy foam
in the bottom of it... when useing small screws and things you might drop..just pull out the drawer agianst
you while your working..if you drop something..it will
fall into the drawer..easy to retireve..when done..push the
drawer back in... all done...

do not wipe filings and metal shavings with shop rags
and then wash them...brush the metal into a dustpan!!!
or your liable to find sharp things in your levis the next time you sit down!!!

need an hot source to quickly cure your epoxy..
take an old steam iron...clamp it upside down in the
shop vise. and plug it in!

polishing... never take a knive from one buff to another
without cleaning it first with amonia.. it will disolve rouge.
instantly...

This is a good one but a little expensive.


Have a kid so he can sweep the shop. They get a little cranky sometimes but food usually takes care of that.

Food.......hmmmmmm....

I've tried money, knives, candy, movies, toys, hmmmmm....

Why not? So, it'll go something like this:
"You don't need to vac. the shop, only on the days that you eat."

I think we have a breakthrough here.

For a degreser and solvent for adheasives I use spray Brake Cleaner it does not leave any resadiue will work when others won't, also one of the best powder solvents for Gun cleaning
Gib

There are some great ideas here guys!

I was pleased to see that I had some of these ideas already in place.

Personally I just recently installed a wooden floor in my shop. I really like it when the knife blade decide to take a dive. It is much nicer to stand on too.

I got a new vice for Christmas too!:) It is a Wilton that swivels 360 degrees and will lay over at a 90 degree angle too. Looks to be very useful!

Some really good stuff here. Maybe this one will help the ones out there who do housekeeping in the shop as poorly as I do. Put a desk calender/blotter on the bench when doing final finish work. Tear off each page as it gets dirty. You have a bright, clean, non-scratch surface for each job. I try to bum one from all the places I do business with. Sometimes at the end of the year you can get all the old ones they have on hand. You cluttered bench types need to try this. By the way, the rumours going around about my shop are a pathetic attempt by backward arkies to slander me. The trip hammer was just under some other stuff for a few months. mw

Good ideas, all.

I'm looking for a calendar tonight.

Interesting how free everyone is with their ideas. Says a lot for the type of folks that are involved in knifemaking.
Thaks.

Hey guys, there is a product called Mean Green avaiable at lots of places. My wife believes it is the best cleaner for so many things and with me here she thinks that's so important. Boy is it good stuff in the shop for cleaning tough stuff off of blades,handles,etc. !! It is bio degradable, and will not hurt your eyes even if you get sloppy with it. It also works great for cleaning in and out of R.V.s I believe it works at least as good as the brake cleaning stuff without he severe smell. Not as expensive either.Frank Niro

Heard of Mean Green but never tried it. I'll look for some.

If you can't get a wooden floor, try some rubber mats of some kind. My friend got me some industrial conveyor belting that helps an awful lot in easing sore feet. Eases the stress when something falls on the floor, as Mondt mentions about the wood floor. It's about 2' wide and maybe 3/8" thick. Any of the floor pads would be helpful. Some are kind of expensive. The wood sounds great.

Regarding the floor mats. I'm out here in California and we have antique car shows were there are guys selling scrap pieces for $6. Some of these pieces are 4'x6', plenty to cut up into usable sizes.

Let's not mention that these shows also have all kinds of used saws, blades, grinders, compressors, and soda vending machines (that are capable of holding beer cans too).

Mike

Is it Mean Green or Simple Green? I've heard of simple green, works well on organics (blood, grease etc.), is biodegradable, a cup in the wash will clean your work clothes. Don't use on cars as it will strip the wax off, does work great on getting the brake dust off of wheels.

I have just been sitting here for an hour reading all the great tips I want to thank all who have shared.
Mean Green I believe you can find at Dollar General or Freds, stores such as these. 36 oz for $2.00 works well for most any cleaning/degreasing.
thanks again Paul

I almost forgot I have a tip for you. kevlar gloves! great for buffing and hand sanding MSC pg. 2987 I use these at work and a couple pairs have found there way home with me most are around $5.00 and you will not cut through them. You can grind the tips off though.

A couple of small strong (neodyme) magnets under the heel of your anvil will deaden that high pitched ring when you are forging.

Plano containers for small parts, in the fishing dept at Wal mart

Magnets, speaker magnets on the base of the drill press, on the side of the vice, these often catch things dropped from my fumble fingers. I have a hard drive ma screwed to the wall to hold my bench knife one for the peening hammer.

I was told Ivory liquid leaves no oily film and use it and household ammonia for a degreaser. Wd-40cleans well even hands, from grease spray adhesive etc.

I keep a jar of 1 part parrifin or old candles and 1 part crisco for lubing stuff I don't want to be too greasy, hacksaw blades and drill bits.

Hey Bob, in a farm mag I saw a guy had rigged one of your compressor magnets on a broom handle and used it to retrieve stuff.

My best tip ever given to me.

"Listen when somebody is talking"

Plano containers for small parts, in the fishing dept at Wal mart

Check the fabric department or hardware department before the sporting goods department first. The same or nearly same containers can be found in these departments cheaper since they don't have the sporting tackle box tax built into the price.

I like the kevlar glove idea.

Magnets all over the place, makes sense. I have 1 ft. long magnet strip mounted near the top of the peg board that runs down the middle of my bench. I stick my SS rulers there, Verniers, etc. Yes, they need to be demagnetized every 3-6 mo. Easy with the commercial demagnetizers that are available.

Like they say, we were given two ears and one mouth for a reason. I'll always remember the new maker who visited the shop long ago and talked so much I had a hard time getting a word in edge-wise. He surely did know a lot.

Did someone mention putting some dish soap in your cooling buckets to keep the dust from collecting on the top of the water. Helps a lot.

Great ideas, everyone. Thank you.

Forgot about the fish tax, thanks as I am ever frugal. Actually I got the ones I have from a garage sale :D

The desk blotter and drawer trick are cool too.

"Like they say, we were given two ears and one mouth for a reason. I'll always remember the new maker who visited the shop long ago and talked so much I had a hard time getting a word in edge-wise. He surely did know a lot" :lol:

When you empty your dip bucket and it has a lot of steel grit in it, don't dump it in the flower bed. It is bad for the plants (how would I know that?).

I can't beleive this thread is going to four pages, but glad it is.

Keep them coming guys.

Bob,etchant doesn't do well on plants either.HAHA
For those having fun threading stitching needles,tear a piece of paper about 1"x 1/8" and fold in half over the end of the waxed thread,slides right through.Good for those of us getting up in years.
Mount a piece of angle( I use aluminum) to your bandsaw table to help resawing larger pieces of wood down to scale size.
I use old manila folders to make templates for all my sheaths.
Fresh snakeskins can be pinned out on a board and dried with baby powder.Thats it for now.Keep'em coming, Dave

OK, One more from me on kevlar gloves. When you do wear a hole in your gloves DON'T throw them away. start at the cuff and pull the string alose. now you have 75 to100 feet of cut resistant thread for sewing sheaths. recycle it works Paul

A tip for an inexspensive horizontal vise; get one of those $10.00 woodworkers vises from Harbor Freight, 6" I believe, mount it to the front or side of your workbench. I had to space mine up higher with some plywood. Screw some particle board or plywood to the inside of the jaws, on top of that, glue some leather, true the material flush with the jaws using your belt grinder. You now have a padded horizontal vise that will not scratch blades or handles, it will also hold irregular objects with ease. I use mine for hand sanding my blades and handles mainly, but it works well for a lot of applications, like holding a rifle barrel while mounting a scope etc.

Thanks, guys. It's exciting to open up the page each day a find out what's new on this list.

Hey Mike I would really like to see a picture of your vise. Can you post one or send one via email?

Mike

Mike, sorry, I dont have a digital camera. I will try to get one with a conventional 35mm and scan one to email for you, it just might take a couple of weeks.

If your drill press is like mine the chuck will not go to zero so small bits are out. I have had good luck in chucking the small bits in a pin vice and chucking the pin vice in the jacob's chuck of the drill press.

Gary

Here are a few:
-Use carpet tape for holding non-magnetic items to the surface grinder. Works great.
-Goo-Gone removes ANYTHING, including carpet tape adhesive!
-Clean your etching stencils by spraying both sides with Fantastic cleaner (yellow bottle). Blot dry with a paper towel. Gets out ALL the grey residue and doesn't affect the etching solution.
-set up the drill press with a foot switch so you can have both hands free. Improves safety, too.
-A DAREX drill sharpener will do carbide bits ($$$) and will pay for itself in short order.
-Tape small, rare earth magnets to your scribers, pencils, markers, X-acto knife, etc. and just slap them on your toolbox or metal workbench. They will be right there when you need them next time. Magnets are also great for holding frequently used drill bits to the drill press.
-Zap-A Gap Green bottle (and Kicker) provide instant fixturing of handle scales, etc for drilling. Just put a drop in each hole or along the edge and spray with kicker. Rap on the bench to release.

OK-gotta go make some knives!

RJ Martin

Is this EZboard weird or what? How does stuff get rearranged? I posted the first message on the fourth page of this thread. A few days later after several additional posts by others, I came back to page four and my post was gone. I thought it was deleted. Then I looked and it is now about six posts back in page three. Did some of the tips go away or did EZboard somehow extend the number of posts per page? I hope the tips did not go away.

If your tips are missing, please repost them.

Bob, I forget where, but e-z board lets you tell it how many post you want per page. If you erase your cookies you lose that info. I have mine set to 30 posts equals one page.

Thanks, Jerry.

Maybe someone out there can help. Seems to be working here ok. That would be frustrating.

EZboard is driving me Nutz. SORRY STEVE, thanks for editing.

Oh well, can't complain too much, at least I did not have to pay to get on it.

Over the years I have been collecting conversion charts. I needed to know that this tap goes with that drill bit and there is also a screw associated but could never remember them all. Therefore conversion charts came in really handy. Every time I saw one I would pick it up and add it to a stack I already had. I had them for converting acres to feet and the like. Well, they have all been compiled into one huge chart (just call me stumpy fingers). I have been typing all day and double checking everything and think I finally got it right. If you see a mistake or have something to add, please e-mail me at bob@warnerknives.com and I will add it or correct it.

This chart is 56 pages long if you print it out so be wary of just hitting print and walking away. for those with slow modems, I'm sorry but I can't make it load any faster. It takes me about 1 minute to load at 10.2K/sec on an ISDN line. The title comes up quick but you will then have to wait a while for the rest to pop up.

Because of it's size I am not posting it hear but will link to it on my web site. Here it is, hope it is helpful to someone. The ULTIMATE Conversion Chart (http://www.warnerknives.com/ultimate_conversion_chart.htm)

Another tip.

Grinding sheep horn will keep EVERYONE out of the shop and leave you to work in peace.

Really I just wanted to bring this back to the top, hoping others will continue to add to it.

Bob, I just looked at your ultimate conversion chart. I can't believe you typed the whole thing....
What was it you were really avoiding doing?

I'm Lazy. I spent a lifetime typing so I could save a few minutes.

May someone else can save a few minutes from their lives.

I got to "G" and decided that there are not that many things in Utah to convert! Maybe in Texas, which is a much larger state....

Wow!

Thanks, Bob, for the Ultimate (really) Conversion Chart.

Wow again!

:D :D

I have two large magnets on the side of my drill press. One *always* has the chuck key stuck to it. This has really saved some cussing. The second magnet has a counter sink reamer stuck on it, something I use often and it doesn't fit anywhere else.
I've also glued a magnet to my depth gauge and keep it stuck to my grinder when I check for even grind lines on both sides.

Good ideas, those magnets.

I spray my blades with Dykem and grind to the lines, on double edge knives. on hunters I just eyeball it, generally taking the grind quite close to the top of the blade back.

ALTOID tins...Cigar Boxes...Cassette Cases...Compartmentalized storage boxes from WALMART and the like...

Mark

Thanks.

I tried carb cleaner spray to clean my disk of old glue today. SLICK! Turn it on slow, spray it, soak some tissue and while still spraying on disk, just wipe it clean.

Of course........BEWARE OF FUMES! The laquer thinner and acetone I've used in the past were quite volatile, also!

Please........BEWARE OF FUMES!

do not let your dog with the big thick tail that he likes to wag into your shop when you have your largest container of tiny screws, nuts, and washers spread out on a chair. <grin>




ghostdog

Use chalk on your files before filing anything. Makes your strokes a little smoother and keeps the teeth from clogging as fast. Kids sidewalk chalk works fine and is the cheapest way to go.

When cutting pin stock, I've started to use a large bolt cutters instead of sawing it. Just a bit quicker and easier than the band saw.

Use the soles of old tennis shoes to clean your belts when they clog up. Works just like the rubber eraser type cleaners.

Bob, at your age you can get your foot that high? I'm impressed.Dave :lol:

...and if one shoe is more worn down than the other, does he walk in a big circle?

For belt cleaning I use tubes of pure silicone caulking that have solidified on me. Cut the plastic tube off and you're ready to go. A tube lasts forever. Works way better for me than the eraser type. mw

Blckbear, I finally got those photos done, of the horizontal vise. You asked if I could email you some, but, your email ain't listed.
Let me know, if you still want the photos of it.

Maybe you could post the photo(s) on the CKD?

Mike, my email address is mikechez33@netscape.net

Mike

Mike, hopefully, you have mail. Sorry it took so long, it is very hard to get film developed properly here.

Steve, sorry, I don't have a web site to host these. I also lack the knowledge to post photos here. But thanks anyway.
If there is another way, please let me know.

After you get your pictures back, scan them and e-mail them to me. I will post them for you.

Thanks for the help, guys. Sometimes things are just difficult....

Here are the photo's that MJHKNIVES wanted to post.

http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise1.jpg
http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise2.jpg
http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise3.jpg
http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise4.jpg
http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise5.jpg
http://www.warnerknives.com/CKD/woodvise6.jpg

Thank you! That set up looks as good, and as functional, as the two or three other types I've seen.

Guys: WAL MART sells a line of compartmented plastic boxes made by Shimano. They're less than $4 each, and have radiused compartments-so those tiny screws can't hide from my fat fingertips! And, the compartments are perfectly sized for knifemaking.
The hinges and latches are good and secure-I have all my folder goodies in a box-screws, pivots, taps, drills, balls, etc.

They're in the fishing department. Buy 2-you will like them.

RJ Martin

Got one a while back, I agree with your assessment. Thanks.

Are those swivel/pivot vises really useful. They're tempting, but I jsut use the TIPPS knife vise for horizontal hold and a Wilson 4" model for vertical....

Anyone out there having fun with, or not having fun, with a swivel model?

I have a swivel one made for me by a knife maker friend. I find it super !!! I did have a set up as was just pictured before that, and I even think my vise was the same make. At least it was a wood working vise of the same color.. The one made for me was done with a pieceof 4" square tubing. A 1/4" plate was welded on the back and has a threaded 3/8" hole. An upside down "T" made up of 1/4" plate is used to used to support the square tubing with a 3/8" bolt with a cross bar for a handle to tighten the tube in any position of 360 degrees. To two short legs are of course bolted to a bench. At the front two opposite sides of the tubing which is about 10" long have been cut as "U"s about 5" deep into the tubing lenghth and have walls about 1/2" high. On one side a piece of oak about 6"x3 3/4'x3/4" with a thick piece of leather glued to it has been attached with two screws. On the other side a piece of leather has been glued to a piece 6"x 3 1/2" x1/4" mild steal. A hole is drilled and taped to take a 1/4" bolt about 2" from the front of the tubing. A bolt is placed in this with a cross bar attatched to it's head for a handle. An oversized diameter hole is drilled part way into the steal plate to help with positioning when the plate is lined up with the front of the tube, below where the 1/4" bolt comes through. This is what has to be called the real cat's whiskers!! Well if you are near as old as me you might call it that. At first you think" well yes I guess it could be helpfull." A short while later it is something you wonder how you got along without. Sure wish I could have sent you a picture . It is a plain jane but a real working one. Of course I have passed this along to several other makers and they have all been super pleased with its use. Frank Niro

Frank,
Can you post a picture of your vise? Thanks
Tom

Bone handles in WalMart pet dept.

Now that's an example of using your resources. Seen any elephant ivory in those aisles?

Thanks!

Hey Tom at this very minute I would have to say no, but perhaps I will give it a try later tonight. I believe I will have to get my new scanner connected and then see what I might be able to do. I sure would like to send a picture or two out also, but getting back to the vise, it's so simple to make only requiring a couple of welds and as I said just works super, super. I believe I could send a scratching or two that would be all that is needed to follow through. I will head for the showers and then see if I can figure out how to get through. Frank Niro

Sorry Tom I'm sooo illiterate on computors. I just haven't been able to get this scan to go.I imagine I will have to see if my neighbours boy will bail me out. Frank Niro

Thanks, you guys, for all your efforts. Sometimes it's just hard.....

Hi Tom No I can't send you anything yet but I'm still trying. I believe my scanner has a short some place. I am going to contiue chasing whatever it is .Frank Niro

We're patient. Thanks for the efforts.

Well hey I returned the darn thing today and got another one which I hope to get operational in the next day or so---I hope, and then I have to find out what is needed to get it to the forum. This is an awfull like the knife making thing--- you just keep trying to do your best by trying to learn more. Frank Niro

When transferring patterns to steel for cutting out, how do you do it?

I draw the knife design on white paper, cut it out within 1/16" of the outline, then spray some aerosol glue, W-Mart has it, on the back and slap it onto a piece of plastic. When set, saw it out then grind it to the line, just barely removing the line, or perhaps grinding 1/2 of the line away. Then you can trace the pattern with a carbide scribe into the blank and there it is. Helps to carefully drill holes for marking screw, thong tube and guard/boloster holes too.

I do my patterns almost exactly the same.

...and so do I. I use old slats from vertical window blinds for the plastic.

Hmmmm..

Parallel developement, ain't it wonderful. ;)

ya pretty much the same here also...however I take the drawing...(or actually a copy of it...I like to keep the original drawings) and glue to some cardboard...last time I used cerialcarton. Spray with 3M sprayglue to make it stick. I cut the profile and then take it to some 1/8" ironplate and scribe the pattern on to it...profile on grinder and finetune the shape. The I drill 1/8 holse where the pins are supposed to go....patterns like these last forever!..eve trough a fire (god forbid)

Excellent point, Jens. Bob L. uses steel patterns, I believe made from ATS-34/154-CM and they do tend to hold up very well through the years. However, if you're only making one knife, or even a few, plastic will do well. Even your "standard" patterns tend to evolve, requiring new patterns now and then. However, you can always make a knife out of an old, discontinued, pattern, assuming that your pattern is made from knife steel....
Thanks guys.

P.S. Congratulations on your "CKD Photo of the Week" winner, Jens!
Goto: pub42.ezboard.com/fcustom...forumfrm33 (http://pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm33)

I make my templates out of steel also. If I decide to modify the pattern later, I just make the last knife of that pattern out of the template. Usually, I just toss it in the "Got past that pattern" drawer and forget it. Later, I open the drawer and start looking at them again. Sometimes I make a few more of an old pattern.

I have found that Arborite, or Formica works well for patterns. It is easy to grind or drill and does hold an out line well. Frank Niro

I've used that also. I once had, and still have a very small piece, of a plastic-like material that worked very well, yellow in color and worked kind of like a semi-hard Micarta, not a tough, but easy to cut and grind to shape without the melted, rolled over edge that plastic gives you.. Haven't seen any more of it, though. Thin, 3/32", paper Micarta does a great job too.
I still know that steel is the best way to go, but a bit expensive.

Ya I don´t do them in steel except for a bunch I made in 01 after deciding I would not make knives in that steel no more...had a bunch of barstock just collecting dust....I went to a garage and got a large piece of 1/8 plate used for cars. Cuts easy and holds up very well...If I make a mistake on a blade so that it ends up with a new profile I sometimes make a new master from that shape....I have more than once been asked to "redo" a mistake like that.. :)

Good ideas. Sounds like we all make the same mista........err.....modifications now and then.

Now if you really want to get into mistakes made---- boy I'll just bet I would be tops! Frank Niro

Yooooouuuuu asked for it! ;)

Goto: http://ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3425

Have your ever buffed a tang, guard and handle, while wearing your Opti-visor? As with peening a pin running through a guard, it makes things a lot easier to see. I suppose there is a bit of added caution one must use, as your nose is only 6-8" from the buffing wheel. Take it slow and easy until you get the hang of it.

When I drop a small part I get my shop vac out and place a stocking over the hose and turn on the vac. All small stuff is sucked on the stocking. Leave the vac on and look on the stockng. Works great on carpet.

Dan Graves
Theknifemaker.com

Great idea. I seem to drop a small part now and then!

take a 2" X 2", length to your preferance. Two "brackets" to suspend them or offset from a wall. place the 2" X 2" betwemm the bracket boards with loose fitting screws.

use small screws to screw baby food jars to the 2" X 2" and then
you have a horizontal "carosell" type system to hold small parts and you can fill the jars as full as you want. From an article in Popular Mechanics" back in the mid 70's,,,,,,,

Falconhawk

I've heard of that technique before.

Did you notice on their TV ad that Gerber is now offering a plastic baby food container, without a screw-off lid, but with a peel off top, like a yogurt container? Maybe we're looking at the end of baby food jars!

After I bring the length of the pivot down to the correct length, I use a 6-32 tap to clean up the threads.

Stay Safe,
A.T.


--
"Don't you buy no ugly knife."
New knives added 9.11.02
http://customknives.com/a.t.barr/availableknives.htm

This thread has to be the record. I love it. Heres one that works for me. When hand sanding a blade I use a masonite clipboard that is mounted on a table. Clip the sandpaper on and duct tape the end. I have squared the radious on the edge of the clipboard to get into the tight spot on the plunge cut. A good flat surface. Keep those tips coming.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

So, you clip the paper to the top of the clip board and then pull it down and wrap it over the squared-off end, and tape it on the back?

Sorry. I'm just kinda slow.

Glad to see this thread surface again.

I don't remember seeing it but soaking a blade overnight in vinegar will make the scale brush off easy.

Steve,

I have a legal size clipboard and tape at the bottom of the paper on the cpipboard. Cuts down on my sanding time and keeps those lines straight. Plus you can really apply pressure and get the most out of your paper. Your not slow, just want it right. Bet it shows in your blades.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

Probably everybody knows this but I'll thow it out here anyway. If you are quenching carbon steels in oil, scale is a problem sometimes. I pull the blade out of the oil at about 400 deg. or so and give it a quick scrub with a coarse scotchbrite pad. Get all the nooks and crannies. Then put it back in the oil till room temp. This will take all the scale off before the scale hardens up. Comes off a lot easier than you would expect. mike

I just came up with a new one. My wife had a baby 7 months ago and as we are now into the Gerber baby food, my wife came home with some last month. They now package the baby food in little plastic containers with snap on plastic lids, kind of like tupperware only tiny. So I rinse all of them out and use them in the shop. You can even put finish in them and they seem not to melt although I do not store it in them, just use them when I am applying. Of course you will have to find someone with a baby to get a hold of some, or you could start eating purreed peas. UGH.

Just tried & it works well,

Using dental floss to slice off the semi-cured epoxy from a contoured handle/tang.

A tip for Mondt.......Have a really good fire extinguisher handy for

your woodin floor ,...your going to need it..

On a serious note , I keep a good supply of carpet samples in
the shop ... they usually give them to you at the carpet store
or they charge you $1.00 each...good buy at any price..
just drop them under you where ever the knife might fall if you drop
it or where it might hit after riccocheting off the wall..
And one thing I can't stess enough to you new comers to this
great profession of knife making.....get a good exhaust system
and set it up right..! Your lungs will thank you and your family
will enjoy your company longer.

When I drill a hole I hand start the bit until it has bitten metal and started a cut. You will see if is centered or not and stops the bit from traveling.


Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

oooooh! nice one Dan!

Mr. Hale has the right idea, but I found an even better covering.
I used carpet for a long time and it was always a pain to clean up. I saw these interlocking foam pads at Home Depot (grey or multicolor) and wanted to try them out, but as typical for HD, they were made of "gold". They still looked like the ticket though.
Shortly after seeing them at HD, I happened to be in the floor maintenance section at COSTCO and found the exact same product right down to the Mgf. label (bulk packages for a fraction of the price!) I bought enough to cover my entire shop floor and some spares to use camping (old knees), and I'll never go back to carpet.
You can cut to any shape you need to get around bench legs and stuff. They are real easy on your feet. Sweep and vac up clean and can even be mopped (closed cell). Only drawback is if you have heavy stuff that is "roll-around" you'll have to pull up the ones in the way, not to bad cause they're in 2.5' squares and are relatively easy to pull and reinstall.
Big plus - Haven't had a single scuff, ding or chip to anything I've dropped (so far) includes my favorite tea glass. Little parts tend to bounce but they do that on concrete too.

If COSTCO has them then Sam's probably has them.

Oh yes, mine have been on the floor for about 9 months and still look real good. Try them out.

Carl Rx

Great ideas guys.
We had a good discussion on dust systems a long time back, maybe page 2 or 3, Lloyd. Thank you for the reminder from a veteran. Here are teh links:

http://ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3457

http://ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=23284#post23284

And just under that one a good warning:
http://ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3492

What does, "hand start" mean exactly, Dan. With a hand drill, or turning the bit by hand in the drill chuck, or ....? Thanks for the tip and for any further insight you might give. You can "edit' your post above, if you'd be so kind.

Heres a trick I use on my vice. For soft jaws I use a magnet like the one on a refigerator and cut srtips. they stay where you put them and the thicker the better. I also drilled a 1/4 hole in the middle on the top of one side of the vice and 2 holes on the top and at the ends. I then insert 1/4 rods on these holes with rubber tube over the rods and this will hold just about any shape handle that I have used on a knife. Hope this helps someone.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

I want to pass on a trick I used in my shop to startle visitors...I had a method of fast changing 60 grit belts on my burr King belt grinder.....In one move I would hit the off switch, move on up and release the spring tension and as it would still be spinning quite fast , with my right hand I would flip the belt off the 8 inch wheel.....the belt would fly off {spinning ) about 10 feet and hit the wall...... I noticed that it always hit the wall in the exact same place.....So I put a 10 inch long wooden dowell in that spot and sure enough the belt would fly off the the Burr King and hang it's self on the wall......And when someone would walk in the shop I would do that trick and it would totally disarm them....! Lloyd

I also drilled a 1/4 hole in the middle on the top of one side of the vice and 2 holes on the top and at the ends. I then insert 1/4 rods on these holes with rubber tube over the rods and this will hold just about any shape handle that I have used on a knife. Hope this helps someone.


Sounds useful, if I unnerstand aright:confused:

The rod in the middle stands up (pointing to ceiling) as do the rods on the other vice jaw. With rubber on these rods you can put a knife handle as you were going to tighted in jaws but use rods to catch the handle. Hope this clears things up. I want a digital camera real bad because I am not the best at explaining things. What is neat is you can take the rods off when not in use.
Let me know if this is still not clear as I do have a friend with a camera.

Dan
www.theknifemaker.com

So, you now have a three-point contact with the knife handle, instead of trying to clamp it in the vise jaws and figuring out some kind of padding system?

Steve,

This is the easy part. Take a 1/4 inch rod to the the auto parts house and get a rubber hose that fits snug. Hope this helps all.
I think this is one of the best threads out there. Should keep going forever.


Dan
www.theknifemaker

Yeah Dan, I did get it first time, cool, just reminded me of an idea I had, but never got round to sorting, for straightening warped blades.

Everyone knows about the three brass rods in the vice trick, right?

Well, I always had trouble juggling three rods & a blade, something always slips before it's all tightened up:mad:

If you've made a copper/brass/ali cover for your vice jaws, this'll be easy to unnerstand, if not, bear with me, it might become clear later...

Make another pair, but with the "face" much deeper (going down), bolt some oft those "u" shaped copper pipe brackets to them in the three positions & drill a hole in the brass rods to accomodate a pin (this stops those suckers from dropping straight through the brackets:D ) Job done;)

No pressure/stress is put on the brackets, as the rods will make there own "beds" in the jaw cover itself, & the blade goes directly in between the jaws, if you did unnerstand that & plan on giving it a go, LMK if it works, might prompt me to try my own idea:eek:

Colin, make a "U" shaped piece out of a hangar, etc. Drill your three brass rods, and put them on it. You can fashion the hangar into an easily held bracket, after putting the rods on.
If I have misunderstood something here, and you already do that, my apologies.

No Mike, that's fine, is what your suggesting a handheld positioning device?

Aaaaah! I think I've got it, make the rods dangle off the hangar?

Yep, you got it.:D

Now you guys lost me. I need a picture due to my decaying old brain.

Ditto. Same reason...

I've just sent a "picture" to both Bob & Steve of my idea (sorry, can't post for a couple of reasons, mainly I can't draw:rolleyes: )

Bob, Steve,
Please don't post it as is:eek:

This sounds much like how the Engraving vise ( ball vise) is set up.
There ars some holes on the top of the vise jaws and into these holes are placed variouse adapters, pins and or holders as needed to hold onto objects of differing sizes. to better understand maybe a quick look-see at one of the supply houses that cater to hand engravers?

Additional jigs, holders are (IMO) a standard part of an engraver's job to make as needed.

Check out: http://www.fdjtool.com/store/showitem.asp?Cat=99&item=26-202&store=5

Just for the sake of looking, this might help?

Oh, I get it.

Wouldn't you want these 1/4" rods to be hardened? Need to be threaded & holes tapped, to stabilize things, also?

I'm liking this idea. Many's the time I've had to try to clamp a handle in a vise with the blade either horizontal or vertical and I can see that this might just do the trick.

Thank you!

A picture is worth a thousand words....hint, hint!

When working on circuit boards, I found this little watchmaker's cases from Lee Valley, they are wonderfull for holding all kinds of little bits and pieces. They are also very cheap.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=44948&category=1,43326&ccurrency=2&SID=

I recommend the ones that come in the aluminum cases, they make it easy to store like material together and protect the individual cases. They also make it easy to stak on a shelf (I mark the front of mine with a sharpie).

--Carl

If you have a wooden lathe, wrap duct tape around a rod and tape cloth sand paper to rod, as you run the lathe you can sand groves. This will also work on just a motor with a shaft. If it has a keway, just fill with shim so as not to bump. The more duct tape the greater the cushion. Keep those tips coming.

I wanted to do a small persian type folder with a blade less yhan 2 3/4" lomg. It was also to be hollow ground. Sure it would be great to purchase a 1" wide contact wheel but just a bit too expensive, especially to get it here into Canada.W hat I did was to wrap a 2" x 7 1/2" wheel that I did have with seven or eight layers of 1" masking tape In fact I did grind two blades with this set up before I removed the tape. It worked just great. I have been using masking tape on my idler wheel as a crown for years. I sure has a long life. Sorry I can't post a picture of my little persian but if you would like to see it, it is listed for sale in ebay for the next couple of days. The listing no. is 7387177879 Frank

Frank, check out my thread on choil grinder in this forum. A good way for permanent grinder solution for small wheels.

Thanks much Dan. Frank

Originally posted by cwp
When working on circuit boards, I found this little watchmaker's cases from Lee Valley --Carl

I read this last week, but didn't have time to order any. Today while at Wally World I passed by a display for various items to hold a persons pills.

I found some clear round stackable containers that for me will work better. I like the idea of being able to see inside. They are made by Ezy Dose.

A.T.

New knives added 11.25.02 http://www.customknives.com/a.t.barr/availableknives.htm
"Don't you buy no ugly knife"

Originally posted by A T Barr


I found some clear round stackable containers that for me will work better. I like the idea of being able to see inside. They are made by Ezy Dose.



A.T.

That is actually why I like the little aluminim watch makers cases, they have a glass insert in the lids, so while they are in the case, you can see into all of them.

--Carl

BTW -- I love your knives.

when using snaps or rivets on your sheaths, use a "power point" drill bit, BY HAND, to effectively countersink a hole for the snap/rivet base to fit in to & eliminate those annoying scratches to your hard earned blade finish.....countersinking base below the leather surface will keep you & your customers happy campers.....

http://www.fototime.com/927FC1251DE5436/orig.jpg

This is in another thread I started about epoxy and clamps and realized it is a pretty good tip so I am posting it here.


If I plan on installing handles, I put the epoxy, pins and the blades into a box I have that has a light bulb inside, just turn on the light and leave it on until the next day. Everything is at a good temp when I work it.

I wanted to add this long time ago. I hate the smell when you drill Micarta, just add a few drops of water so you do not have to put up with the stink.
This is an obvious one, ALWAYS no matter what you do, wear you safety glasses!!!!!
Ricardo Velarde

www.velardeknives.com

hey kewl idea on the rubber covered rods for holding handles.

old printers have these nice 3/8" or so rubber covered rods in em.
very easy to recycle now I know what to do with them.:D :D :D

Great pointers, everyone. Here's my latest "discovery."

After about 15 yrs. of using an old modified, maybe a little bent, drawbar on my Bridgeport that didn't turn very eaily and finally stripped the thereds, I up and bought a new one. Happy day! It spins into the collet like it's greased with butter! Installing and removing a cutter and/or collet is ten times easier now. Why didn't I just get a new one years ago? Too cheap!

Don't fight with old non-working, or sticky equipment, fix it or get a new model, if possible. Life's easier that way. A small thing, yes, but every time I cange a collet it's just a little nicer experience. Yes, I am nuts, you know me! Just thought I'd share this morning.

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this before, but the soles of old sneakers make great belt cleaners. I use one when I've been shaping handles and have a belt loaded up with wood or cellulite residue. Just grind on the sole of the shoe for a few seconds, and the belt comes pretty clean.

Don't throw away those used sanding drums. After they won't cut any longer, load them with your favorite buffing compound. More than doubles the life of the drum. Just keep adding compound as needed.

Can't imagine why I never got into this thread before....I'm exhausted from reading all the great tips! :p

Thought I'd bring it back up so others won't miss it...


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby! :smokin


PS. Here's my contribution:
Home Depot sells 18" X 24" carpet mats with nice finished edges. They're made up of all sorts of various carpet samples. Packs of two sell for $3...I buy the light colored ones (some are almost white) and have 'em half way under every bench and work station. Easy to find anything that's dropped...when they get too dirty, at a $1.50 apiece, I'll just toss 'em.;)

Did anyone happen to download my "Ultimate Conversion Chart"?

I no longer have it and sure don't want to go through creating it again.

If anyone has it, please let me know so I can post it again.

I buy hardware for folders in lot sizes. Screws, pins, washers, etc. I do the same thing with small expendable tools such as drills, reamers and taps.

I get fisherman's clear plastic fly tackle boxes at Walmart. These come in all sizes, with adjustable size compartments in each box. I keep all this stuff in those boxes. Drills, taps, reamers in one, Torx screws in another, etc. They all have clear plastic lids, so I don't need to open the lid to see what's in the compartments in that box.

When I start knives, I take out what I need from the boxes and put all the parts in an empty plastic butter dish. I usually build two folders at the same time to save repetition and setup time. As I make the other parts for each knife, they go into a butter dish with the other parts for that knife.

I'm with the other Don (Cowles) when it comes to finding parts I drop. My wife's much better at that than I am.

;) ;) ;)

Bob,

I sent you the conversion chart and something else we talked about earlier.

Mike

Thanks, Michael.

I will be uploading it an posting a reference to it as soon as I convert it to Adobe format.

From the bottom of page 5:

I spray my blades with Dykem and grind to the lines, on double edge knives. on hunters I just eyeball it, generally taking the grind quite close to the top of the blade back.

Let me modify that statement: I just picked up a can of paint-on Dykem Steel Blue¨. It's tons better than the spray-on stuff that I've used for over 30 yrs. Try it next time, I think you'll see that it doesn't get too thick and chip off like the spray-on kind does when drawing lines on a blade for grinding guides, or layout jobs of any kind, etc.

This just in from LLoyd Hale:

"I was just reading your forum on tips and tricks and really enjoyed every offering. I read your entry of 03-01-2002 about cleaning the old adhesive off your disc and I wanted to share something with you if you haven't tried it..... for 27 years I've used an adhesive called NAPA- 4081 I get it at the NAPA auto parts store.. you can change grits real fast without having to add more adhesive and when it get too much of a build up , I use acetone to clean it off..."

I, Steve, have used 3M¨ "Spray Disc Adhesive" for all my life making knives. I'll try that Lloyd! (I hope it's OK to post your comments).

Also, a young man who drops by now and then and makes a great knife, Peter Richardson, brought me a can of Weldwood¨ "Spray 'n Glue." It seems to spray on the disc smoother and not clog at the nozzle like the 3M stuff tends to do.

Thanks Lloyd and Pete!

Go to a plastics supplier and get some 1/2" UHMW plastic sheet. It has a million uses, from vise jaws to a mixing pad for epoxy. Grit and chips won't embed in it very easily (unless they are hot this is low temp stuff) and it will "form fit" to weird shaped objects when used as vise jaws then return to flat when you are done. Very handy stuff.

Tom

If you put your handle slabs on, one at a time, as I do, drill the screw and thong tube holes first - before you grind the handle slabs down to the pre-shaped guard/bolster on the sides. Then, if the drill pops out a little, or large, chunk of the handle material, as it emerges, you still have material to grind away on the handle, thus getting rid of the crater. It's hard to do that if the scales are ground down to finished dimensions before you drill.

Grinding the drill to a shallower/flatter angle will help eliminate this, also. Then the point breaks through with less of the handle undrilled. (Make any sense)?

bump

Wow, it's been a while!

I was pulling off the Wet/Dry sandpaper from my disc sander the other day, and the paper started tearing away, leaving a thin film of paper on the disc. You know what that meant, cleaning the whole disc off with acetone, or something. Then I had a thought. (Dont' look so surprised!) I grabbed my little pump-can of acetone that Ricardo gave me, (It's a little aluminum, Avon-type lotion canister with a pump on the lid) and as I was pulling the paper off, I'd pump just a little bit of acetone onto the juncture of the disc and the paper and it'd peel off like magic. It saved having to clean off the whole disc.

Of course, as you use a disc sander, the glue eventually gets to the point it has to be stripped, but this one isn't to that point yet, so I was happy to find something that made things a little easier. After applying just a bit more disc adhesive, I was off and disc-ing again.

Thanks Dogman for helping me find this old post!

I use a old phone book to mix glue on then tear the page off and throw away. The bigger the city the better.

Great idea!

Buy carbide circuit board drills for drilling MOP. Bathe it with paint thinner on a solder brush, or something, to make a nice clean cut. Wonderful!

This works if you have a varible speed grinder. I take a staybrite belt and a j-flex belt and put on the grinder at the same time. The j-flex on the outside. Run on slow speed. Does a great job of blending and smoothing everything out and "NO" bump. Also great for evening up the plunge cuts. It will round off a little and washes out crisp lines where grind stops. It does have its place and is the best for fine grits. I can use belts that are not j-flex. Works great.

Neat idea, Dan.

Has anyone tried the new Trizact® CF A45 belts? They are equivalent to a 350x Alox belt, approximately, though close enough to 400x that you can use them in place of the 400x. I'm on the verge of phasing out the 400x Alox that I use prior to the 400 cork and then the 600 cork, as they blend so very nicely and are a bit cushiony, kind of like Dan mentions above. Worth a try. I got mine from Bader at the Blade show or was it the Guild show? Love 'em, so far.
This info. from Tru Grit is informative- http://www.trugrit.com/belts-descriptions.htm#3m

Yes we do carry the Trizact CF A45 Belts. Here is a list of them:

GRIT CF#
80 A300CF
120 A160CF
180 A100CF
240 A65CF
400 A45CF

In the 2 x 72 belt they are $5.00 each. If you buy 10 or more in one grit they are $4.80 each.

Steve: Iv'e used all of the grits mentioned. there is no comparison to ALox. they last 10 times longer, run cooler and cut better. only one thing, they will not fold over the edge of the wheel/platten. I wouldn't bother with the A300CF the ceramic belts do a much better job at the coarser grits.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry. Great information! I like the 350-400x as it is already kind of a slightly rounded corner and works nicely in the curves.

I haven't made it all the way through this thread but have found that most of you use acetone to clean off your disc adhesive. I've found that mineral spirits works very fast for this. You do have to hit it with acetone afterwards to clean the oil film off but it works so well that I put up with it.
Jon

I'll surely try that, acetone actually can be quite slow.

Also, here's a tip:
DO NOT stick the point of a 8 1/2" fighter blade into the side of a fairly soft, smooth contact wheel, while polishing. It will catch, be thrown and cut right through the duct pipe of the dust handler and whack you in the leg. IF YOU'RE LUCKY! I was. This time, I was not hurt, stung a little, and had a hart beat of about 200 per min. for a while. Whew! PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE THAT POINT IS!

I keep a small knife (1.25" blade, 3" OAL) stuck to the lamp with a magnet at my desk where I work. Its having a blade close at hand for trimming paper, removing staples, opening junk mail (or shredding it). The blade has become magnitized and is great for picking up paper clips and discarded staples that my big fat fingers can't get a hold of.....

Ric

Steve, I purchased some of those Trizact belts. In the two belts you mentioned that you like. At what point to you use them. Im taking my knives to a 220 grt. AO then Heat treat. I assume you using them in the finishing. Want to give them a try but want to make sure im using them at the right time.

Thanks,

Shane

I use Norton 120g, heat treat, back with the 120g, 220g, then the Trizact A65C, Trizact A45C to a final finish before hand sanding. The Trizact belts seem to transition very well and I can go to 400g for hand work and not have hours of sanding. The Trizacts don't want to get wet, so I use a damp towel to cool the blade when needed.
Rick

Steve, I purchased some of those Trizact belts. In the two belts you mentioned that you like. At what point to you use them. Im taking my knives to a 220 grt. AO then Heat treat. I assume you using them in the finishing. Want to give them a try but want to make sure im using them at the right time.

Thanks,

Shane

I grind my blades before and after heat treat with 60x ALOX. I then go directly to either an ALOX 400x belt or this new 350 or 400 Trizact belt. I hear form one source that it's 350x and from another that it's a 400x. I think it's a bit more coarse than 400x, but, be that as it may, I use it right after the 60x and then go to a 400 cork and then a 600 cork belt with RCH Green Chrome buffing compound. I'm finding that I don't even use the rougher Trizact. You could go to the 350x after your 220x, no problem. Though, with the way it, or a new 400x ALOX cuts, I think that you'll find that there's no real need for the 220x step.

I simply dunk the blade in a bucket of water, wipe it against my pant leg and go on polishing. Haven't' had any water problems....yet.

I haven't made it all the way through this thread but have found that most of you use acetone to clean off your disc adhesive. I've found that mineral spirits works very fast for this. You do have to hit it with acetone afterwards to clean the oil film off but it works so well that I put up with it.
Jon

Jon:

I tired it today and want to thank you. I always have some mineral spirits/paint thinner in my shop, which I use while drilling MOP, and have never thought to use it on disc adhesive. It works at least 10 times better, faster, easier than acetone.

Thanks a million. I'll thank you every time I need to clean off a disc!

Steve,
Glad to hear it worked for you.

Now for the kicker. I stopped using adhesive. I now buy adhesive backed 8" disks from the auto supply store ( carquest paint dept.). They cost a little more than 9x11 paper but I feel I save by not having to apply the glue and cut the paper. They also last 3-4times longer than the klingspor paper I was using. The cost is really not much more, klingspor is about $.50/sheet and the paper I now buy is $.65/sheet. It comes in a big roll of 100, just peel off a disk and stick it on. Really quick.

I did however have to turn down my 9" disks to do this.


Jon

Hmmmm. I've wondered about those discs. The 9" discs are quite expensive, as I recall, but at $.50 for the smaller, as you say, that's cheaper than Wet/Dry sheets. How does the 8" disc work? Is it any problem using the smaller diameter?

Thanks again!

When you ship knives, or whatever, don't tape the wrapper around the part, it's a pain to get undone, just wrap them and box them, if possible. A heat treater made that request of me once and I appreciate it when I get something in a package that is just wrapped, or has an elastic band around it, rather than scotch tape over bubble wrap, that you can't even see, let alone get undone? Just a thought.......

Tried Jim Poplin's "Silver Solder," $7 for 20 ft., and, now you didn't hear ME say this, it may flow a little nicer than Eutectic 157! I only wish that it was available in 1/16" diam. Lovin' it! It melts at the same temperature as Eutectic 157.

Steve, just take a peice of scrap steel and drill a 1/16th hole... taper one side of it with a tapered reamer by hand and file one end of that solder to a point and push it into the hole. Grab the end that sticks out and PULL... you might have to make a couple holes smaller that the solder is now, dont know how thick it is. Just a simple drawplate and solder draws the easiest!

Alan Folts

alanfolts@hotmail.com

Hey, thank you, Alan, I will certainly give it a try. I think I knew that could be done, but it's waaaaaayyyyy back there in my mind and didn't surface. I appreciate it, the thinner solder melts quicker and is easier to handle, IMO. Thanks again!

Hello Steve
Did you use the flux that Pops offers or did you use another brand?

Thanks;
Charles

Neat little trick I learned is when using a file guide, put a brass wedge in the back of the file guide after knife is clamped in place (bottom side) so when you clamp it in the vise it dosnt open up and stays true.

Hello Steve
Did you use the flux that Pops offers or did you use another brand?

Thanks;
Charles

I use Eutectic #682 flux. Have not tried the flux that POP offers, sorry.

Neat little trick I learned is when using a file guide, put a brass wedge in the back of the file guide after knife is clamped in place (bottom side) so when you clamp it in the vise it dosnt open up and stays true.

Not sure what you mean, Dan. Can you elaborate, photo, maybe?

Sorry I'm so slow!

One thing that I do to keep things organized is to put the tap and drill in a plastic tube together in one of the plastic containers that end mills come in. You can also do the reamers and the drill for the reamer the same way. Then when you need to tap or ream a hole you don't have to look for the drill, they will be together in the container. You might try putting a small throw rug on the area of the floor where you work. When I drop something. it keeps it from rolling around and getting dings. For sandpaper you can use these plastic file holders that people use in an office. I think you can get one that has up to 4 seperate compartments in it. You can place different grits in each slot and hang it on the wall out of the way. Also helps with your inventory with grit size you are getting short on so you will know what you need to buy. Hope this helps in some ways.

Steve, a photo is worth a thousand words. Hope this helps. In the first pic the file guide is set up with the wedge set up and the second pic is when it is in the vise and you can see how it would cause the file guide to open up.

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/5179/img00855tz.jpg" border="0" width="640" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5121/img00876qw.jpg" border="0" width="640" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

I get it, Dan, I think! Is that the blade and tang sticking out of the guide? Used for filing the rear of the blade to fit the guard? (Sorry I'm so dumb!)

BTW, Just for your, and everyone's information, Charles Vestal's post, above, about solder flux, happens to be post # 200 on this thread. Lots of good information here! Thank you, everyone, for being so generous with your trade secrets. Something pretty unique, I believe. I doubt many industries are so generous in helping their competition. The knife world is wonderful.

Steve, the tang is pointing upward in the 2nd photo and yes it is for filing the shoulders to fit on the guard. On all the file guides I have seen (even with alighnment rods) they tend to open up when clamped in the vise and (after filing) make the shoulders on the blade not true. The wedge is tapped in place after all screws are tightend and before it goes in the clamp. By doing this I get a much better fit on the guard. I always file all 4 sides and you cant see a seam in the guard. Steve, have you seen the new jigs that look like a file guide for milling machines (for doing the four shoulders on a tang)?

Great stuff, Dan. No, I haven't seen the milling jigs. Sound interesting. Maybe you ought to elaborate on your method, filing all four sides never even occurred to me...great idea.
Thanks for the enlightenment!

Steve, I file the 2 sides that would make it a T first then file the flat sides. I start off with a rough file on all sides and finish up with a fine file. On the all four sides I will use a safe side file for finishing up. Its the side ones that will hide the seams on the guard that you really have to take your time to make sure they are flat. Also, my file guide is hardened with no draw as it will make the file skate on it when complete. The only real trick is always keep file flat.

I learned that trick at the Scagel hammerin from Doug Noren. Seems it was one of Scagels tricks for fittting guards.

Great information. Thanks a million!

Here is a link to a vise I found while searching for a vise listed on one of the posts way way back there.... Great thing about this vise is that it holds horizontal and vertical and it is only $30.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31144&cat=1,41659,41661&ap=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31144&cat=1,41659,41661&ap=1)

Looks like a good idea, waredbear. How's it holding up, or have you used it for long?

Take an old metal TV tray (you do remember those don't you) and stick an old speaker magnet on the bottom of it. You now have yourself a pretty good working area for small parts. I guess you could even line it with some of that new fangled no slide stuff that all the women are using these days in their cabinets.

I use a magnetic dish to hold parts on my mill. Good idea, Anthony, thanks.

I haven't made it all the way through this thread but have found that most of you use acetone to clean off your disc adhesive. I've found that mineral spirits works very fast for this. You do have to hit it with acetone afterwards to clean the oil film off but it works so well that I put up with it.
Jon

I'm a believer! Mineral spirits, paint thinner is 10 times better than acetone! thanks, Jon!

Go to BJ's or Sams Club (Use friends membership if you don't have one) and buy a box of the 2 ounce plastic containers, the kind restaurants give you salad dressing or hot pepper flakes in. 2000 of them cost a little over $5.00. They are indispensable as epoxy mixing cups. I also use them as little parts cups, they work great to organize little screws or parts, just remember if you put little parts in them use the lids, If the job takes more than one day I will use a sharpie to write the contents and date on the lid to stay organized or in case I knock the cup off of the bench!

I bought a 2000 count box 6 years ago, have given all my friends a sleeve or two and still have what appears to be a lifetime supply. I stumbled on this idea by accident. I originally bought them when we were on a "Jello-Shot" kick, luckily my liver gave out before my supply of little containers did! Your mileage may vary! :rockon:

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/7982914"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/10320505430.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

After you get your cup supply laid in and you are still out shopping, why not visit a "Michaels" or other large craft store. Buy the 500 or 1000 count box of "Craft Sticks" aka. Popsicle sticks. They come in two sizes, the regular size and the larger "Tongue Depressor" size. They are so cheap and handy, I bought a large box of both. :punchself These little cups and regular size Popsicle sticks are like "Peas & Carrots" for sure. :101

Primarily I use them for mixing epoxy, but they make fantastic shims, spacers, and excellent little disposable scrapers. Used as little wooden scrapers they are second only to the "West Epoxy" disposable plastic scrapers; I will take a handful over to the belt sander, some I will chisel grind on each end, some I just square off and bevel, others I will cut a 45 deg. angle on the end so I will have a "point" and it can get into corners more easily. Get creative or grind the shape you need! ;)

<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/7983017"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/10320583845.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a><a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/5523090"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14309454432.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a> <a <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/5523089"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14309454437.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a> My homemade "Sanding Stick"

The third and perhaps most useful tip for these "Craft Sticks" is to cut some sandpaper of varying grits and using either spray adhesive or super glue attach the little strips of paper to the ends of them. They make excellent disposable sanding blocks. I usually go into "Production" mode when I make them, its just easier, I mark the grit of the sandpaper on handles with a little black sharpie so I know what I am working with, however most times you can just go by "Feel " unless you are trying to get something to a high level of polish.


While we are at it, buy yourself a "Bulk" bag of hockey pucks from Sports Authority or some other sporting goods shop for less than a buck a piece. I then take a regular old wood router with a "V" groove bit it and route a "V" through one or two of them, the "V" groove will let you securely drill round stock or tubing. The natural "Non-Skid" and hard rubber composition of the hockey puck is perfect for this kind of stuff. Again, once you learn of them get creative. I use four of them under a large table saw as "Anti-Vibration" feet and another two under my bench grinder for the same reason.

They machine like butter with tools as soft as woodworking router bits, drills clean and sands smooth, make great non-marring vise jaws by just drilling a little hole in a couple of them and epoxy 2 small rare earth magnets into the puck. Starrett sells one of these in steel for $70.00!

You can drill some random holes through the puck to create a space you can drive pins through from the topside. The puck is non-scratch but hard enough to stand up to hammering. If you cut a couple in half or cut the edges off of one they make awesome sanding blocks.

Here is an example;
<a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/7983568"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/4/10322313547.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a> <a href="http://www.putfile.com/pic/5523082"><img src="http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/5/14309454371.jpg" alt="Click to enlarge"></a>

And a "Since it's in the picture" bonus! Shown above on the right sitting on top one of my little rubber "Machine Blocks" is a little piece of dowel. If you notice, it has a small starter drill (friction fit) in it. I use it to chamfer small holes (In this case it was a firing pin hole on a little handgun); With little more than a quick twist of the wrist you have very sensitive control of deburring or chamfering operations, this, even in very hard steel.

This simple DIY tool works surprising well, I have used it with great success on holes up to 1/4" (Different bits in different dowels of course).

How many times have you "Over Chamfered" a hole with a drill or drill press using a fluted chamfering bit? Yeah, thought so. You will be very surprised at how well doing this by "Hand" works, you get a great "Feel" and awesome control over the operation. I even glued a couple of the 2 and 8 flute chamfering bits into old file handles to use by hand. Much better control and results this way, very smooth, chatter free and uniform bevel with this method, I have found that buying the "Starter Bits" and using them as chamfering tools works better than the bits advertised to do this. I haven't measured the angle of these starter bits but unless you need an 80 deg. angle or something specific, give this a try, you will be pleasantly surprised. Of all these little shop notes, if you have made it this far, do yourself a huge favor and have the Mrs. buy you a case of these little containers, I promise after having them available you will have one of those, "How did I live without these little things" moments.

Best regards and have fun!

Jerry

Thank you, Tractorshaft. Some neat ideas there. I will pick up some plastic cups next time I go to Sam's and also a box of craft sticks when I get close to a craft store again, which won't be long, since my wife is often going there for something.

I'm finding that I like to fit the guard and drill for the pin before I grind the blade, of late. Just is nice to get the blade done and then, IT'S DONE! Of course, get the sides sanded/disked down first, as much as possible.

I was trying to get a finished Green River skinner with SS bolsters to "stay put" in the vise the other day, in order to checker the bottom of the bolsters. Kept slipping/squishing out toward the point, as the handle is somewhat tapered forward there, so I was hit with the idea of using some 1/2" thick foam insulation to put in the vise jaws and they grabbed the stag and bolsters and held if very solid when I tightened it up. Checkering was not a problem from then on. Worked great!
I wonder if the hockey pucks, above, might do the same job?

Steve,

I was just admiring some fighters from another Utah Maker on another forum,
and it came to me- why don't you make some full metal sheaths for some of your
high end knives !...You already make the best stock removal knives on the planet,
and a high end sheath would be a appropiate companion. Just a suggestion

and I have been told that a child of four could make those full metal sheaths.

Jim

But I'm 62!

well, you got a little head start on it then . lol.

I think i've regressed to about three yrs.!

a three year old? no problem, you should be at least able to make
a sheath with nickel silver throat & tip at that age. One of those kind of sheaths
with a little engraving ( or not) with your knives would translate into $$$$$.

I'll call Steve Rapp and have him do it right!

Steve,

Do you remmeber what stock thickness Bob made his fighters & Boot Knives from ?
Not Dixon, but his first line fighters; & what thickness do you use for both knives.

3/16" unless specifically requested otherwise.

If you don't do it, sign up for accounts on Fed EX, UPS and USPS, whichever one(s) you use and you can print out labels, pay online, etc. Surely does make shipping easier! I'm sure any shipping firm will offer the same services. Of course you know that most of them will even offer free boxes. I pick up my mail boxes at the post office, but Fed Ex and UPS will deliver them for free.

I'm disking my "flats" (meaning choil area in front of the guard, sides, top and bottom) on knife blades just before grinding after heat treat, of late, with 400x wet/dry and then going over them again with the same disk a second time. It seems to put a very nice sheen on the surface that buffs off very nicely. Be careful, though, if you leave any old rougher scratches, or some of the new 400x scratches from the first "disking" they will show up later. Maybe try buffing the choil area before you finish grind and polish the blade to make sure there are no errant deep scratches left on the surface. Buff, to check it out, then hit it again on the disk, since you don't want to put on the guard with a "buffed" surface on the choil. It'd be too easy to over-buff, if you did that. Leave the worn 400x disk finish on the choil and the face of the guard, as you will do a fair amt. of buffing when you polish the solder fillet and over-buffing will cause problems with the surface finish. I'm not saying this is, "The Answer," just that it seems to be working for me and you might give it a try and decide for yourself.

I am planning to buy a 14" contact wheel for my old model bader to do hollow grinding. I've been mostly flat grinding and using the 8" serrated wheel for profiling and some hollow grinding. I understand that the harder serrated is best for rough grinding and the softer plain face is better for polishing. BUT, right now, only one wheel is in my budget. Which would you suggest, plain or serrated / hard or soft?
thanks
Jeff

I use a medium hard 4" wheel to do fighters and boots. It is serrated with grooves that are 3/16" wide and lands that are 5/16" wide. It is probably about 75-80 durometer and it works very well for me. You might as advice from the wheel manufacturer as to what they recommend, as I cannot give advice for the larger sized wheels. My big wheels are 60 duro. on the smooth and 9-0 duro. on the serrated, which has 1/4" grooves and 3/8" lands, which have worked very well on 8" and 14" wheels for over 30 yrs. Hope this is of some help. You'll need some softness and some hardness to do both roughing and polishing, but I'm just giving an educated guess on the above. I'm sorry I can't say, "Do this." and know that it'll work.

Thanks Steve. So do you use the same medium hard serrated 4" wheel for the whole sequence on the boots and fighters, from rough grind right on through the cork belt?
Jeff

Yep, the whole thing.

I just got in a 400 grit cork belt. It arrived damaged, but I was able to split into a 1 x 72 and try it out - I like it!

Have you ever used the coarser cork belts like 220. Wondering if they would be a nice transition from the 120 blaze to the 400 cork.
Jeff

Glad you like the cork. I haven't used the 220x belts. Can't hurt to try, for sure! I am liking the 1000 x
cork, following the 400x, but am not totally sold on it yet. Need to use it a little more.

I have gone to 400x tractor belt, then 400x cork (Broken in) and then to 1000x cork. Until it stops working, that's what I'll be doing. It takes no longer that the old way, 600x cork, to clean up the 400x cork scratches and buffing is a breeze. Easier on grind lines, also, such as the centerline on a fighter.

For those of you who drill holes around the perimeter and saw the blank from a piece of flat stock, try this to eliminate the hack sawing.
Put the punch marks close enough together so that the holes will overlap slightly and hit them lightly with a countersink to make them a little deeper.
Now drill every other hole. When you have done this go back and drill out the remainder of the holes. The bit will not wander if it is unsupported on both sides.

Ralph

Good thinking and a great idea, Ralph. Thank you, Steve

So: How many belts do you buy at a time? I know that I bought a bunch once, when I had the money and by the time I got to the last of them some were coming apart at the splice joint. Maybe after 2-3 yrs, not sure. How long can a belt last before they come a part. They really do kinda hurt when they break and slap you in the face! Any knowledgeable recommendations out there? I know that humidity, or lack of same can be a factor, probably temperature, also.

About fifteen years ago I was lucky enough to find a used Wilton Square Wheel grinder. The grinder came with a bunch of belts, 60-400 grit. Now this grinder hadn’t been used for over ten years and had been in a damp basement along with the belts.

This was the first real belt grinder I had ever used and I was a little apprehensive about how fast this thing was spinning the belts. After getting up enough courage to step up to the grinder with a new (old) 60 grit belt installed I began grinding the bevels on a knife. Everything seemed to be going well, other than not knowing how to hollow grind, until the belt splice let go. Luckily the Square Wheel was an enclosed machine but it still made a pretty loud pop and smacked my hand with the belt. It took a couple more 60 grit belts letting go before I figured out it was time to order a new batch of belts.

I usually try to keep 10+ belts of each grit in the shop, so I am not ordering many at a time. If I was doing this full time I think I would have to increase the number of belts on hand.

If all the belt we use would last as long as the cork belts we could order belts every couple of years.

I have never heard anyone say how long the belt splice will last in storage, Pop might be able to answer this question.

Take care
Charles

Thanks, Charles. It so happens that part of those that came apart on me were cork belts, probably 4-5 yrs. old. That's one problem with cork belts...they never wear out, so those in storage get pretty old!

This discussion brings up another related issue about belts. I like to order 10 belts at a time, and usually they arrive within two or three days. I started grinding knives on a regular basis in 1970 and have never had a problem getting the belts shipped in a timely manner. "However" I have about 50 or 60 used belts hanging on the shop wall. I don't use them! Harvey Draper had several hundred hanging in the north end of his "chicken coop shop." Maybe they satisfy some primal need to be safe, just in case something would happen to cut off the supply.

I would be interested to know if anyone else "squirls away" belts, "just in case?"

"All the Indians in South America walk in a straight line, at least the one I saw did"

Larry Peterson

Grat to hear from you, Larry. Welcome to the forum.
I always have 20 or so old belts, just in case. Have, more than once, had to used old belts while awaiting arrival of a new shipment, when I HAD to grind a blade, finish a handle and had no belts in better cutting condition. Never 100's, but always a few. I remember Harvey Drapers "stash" hanging on the wall.

If I May,

I would like to share a little technique I use to keep from loosing solder down the tang when attaching the guard on the hidden tang blade. After fitting and making sure everything is ready to go, I wrap the tang under the guard with several (lots)of layers of aluminum foil. I then place the knife in the vice so it has clearance down under the tang to go down further. I close the vice till it is a snug fit against the aluminum foil and place a piece of soft pine up on the tip of the knife. I then carefully tap the pine straight down and at the same time close the vive jaws a little at a time until I have a tight fit. After making sure the blade is straight up and down and the guard is exactly where I want it, I tighten the vice to the final tight. The jaws are on the aluminum and now I can reflux and solder the guard.

The guard is held right in place and no axcess solder can run out the bottom and down the tang. I use a little electronic de-solder wire to absorb any excess solder. A puff of water from the spray bottle and the knife is ready to dunk into the Hydrogen oxide (H2O) and go to the next stage of production.

I hope this tip is of some use to someone.

Best wishes, Larry Peterson

That sounds like it really works well, Larry.
Thanks!

About 30 years ago I put a 1X6 across the bottom of my reloading bench, tight to the floor. Ain't lost nothing since. Use that trick on all my work benches, and the rug on the floor works good to. Leave about an inch gap between the rug and the 1X6, stuff seems to land and get caught there.

Thank you, Rog, that makes a lot of sense. Those little parts always bounce once, or twice, 'BEFORE" hiding under the work bench!

So, when was the last time you got ready to use that belt one more time and burned the edge, or something like that, or - since they cost so much - use that "brand new" one that you have had in storage for 5 yrs. - and it broke, putting you and your knife in danger? Or...as in my case more than once, tired to get one more "etch" out of that trademark stencil. I did it tonight. On top of it being an old stencil, it was also probably more used than it should have been before being thrown away. Well, I did it, and ended up grinding and polishing the messed-up logo out, getting out a new stencil and re-etching the knife! Yes, I had that little voice, or thought that says, "Don't use that old stencil." But I ignored it and ended up getting that new stencil out, anyway. Then there is the late night work. I get to a point where if I keep plugging on, no matter how tired I am I'm risking safety as well as ability. Too tired is too tired! Lesson: If you think it, follow that prompt, 'cause it usually right. It's a lot easier, cheaper, safer and less frustrating, to forget about the cost, which is usually minimal, anyway, or stopping while you're still ahead and going to bed and, "Follow that feeling." I'm sure many of you know what I'm talking about. If it doesn't feel good, DON'T DO IT! (To paraphrase an old '60's theme). Hope this made some sense - and also that it saves someone some frustration.

You made my day!

I'm glad to hear that someone besides myself, has "set backs." Yesterday I was blanking out a knife to show a new maker how fast I could do it. "Showing off!" My KMG has a three 3 horsepower motor and I was using all it had to "claw out" the profile. Usually I tape my finger joints so I can detect the 36 grit belt before it "gets me." I didn't do it this time and sure enough, it bit me. The good thing is that the skin always grows out nice and pink and smooth.

Im really having a hard time throwing out my old belts. I have found that it is easier to cut the belt so as to keep from getting it back out of the garbage can! I threw away three belts yesterday. That leaves about 50 or so still on the wall. I think it has something to do with having parents that went through "The Great Depression."

Thanx Steve, ....Larry Peterson

While polishing a wilderness blade last night on the 8" wheel, I got to the 400x cork and noticed that there were just a couple of "kind of deep" scratches on one bevel. I thought the cork belt could handle it, so I kept on and on, making little or no progress. Finally I just took the cork belt off, jumped back to the 400x tractor belt and got rid of them in just a few seconds. I'd spent about 10 times longer trying to get the cork belt to do what is is not designed to do. The coarser belt, though I had to stop the machine and change belts, did the job, quickly and easily. I keep on learning on this job, it seems! Don't fight it, just do it right and save time and frustration!

I must admitt to experiencing frustration going from cork to buffer. I use a 400, 600, and 1000 cork before buffing. They look so good until the first pass over the buffer. Then the back and forth starts and it is very time consuming. I agree with you about the 400 cork not being the most correct way to get those pesky scratches out. I use the trizack belts, finishing down to "30" but am going back to adding a 400 ceramic to try to get out those little valley scratches. I guess if it were easy, everybody would be producing mirror finishes. Thanx for sharring. I feel better now!

Larry Peterson