View Full Version : Brass coated cable


primos
12-20-2000, 09:03 AM
Gene posted a pic at the Electronic Fencepost of a blade with brass coated cable damascus hardware. I am always experimenting with new tricks for bolsters, guards, ferrules, buttcaps, etc.

I would be real interested in some info on the technique for the brass coated cable damascus. Gene said to start the thread over here, so here it is.

Let's rock -- educate me.

Ed Caffrey
12-20-2000, 12:58 PM
Hi Terry!
There are several ways to infiltrate brass into wire damascus that include brazing in on the cable prior to welded, brazing after the first series of welds, or what I have done in the past is actually melt the brass onto the cable during the welding process. This method is nothing more that using the heat of the fluxed billet (not fully welded yet) to melt the brass onto/into the cable. There is a long history of blacksmiths brazing in the forge, these procedures were know to hold up longer, and better than most other repair/attachemnt methods, short of a forge weld.

Now it's time for Gene to explain how he does it!

primos
12-20-2000, 07:06 PM
Hey Ed,
I'm sorry for taking so long to respond. It's been a busy day, and a busy night. I just dropped in for a moment to see who's saying what over here.

Thanks for the info. I hope to discuss this further, later on when I have time to sit down and absorb the details.

Thanks again.

robertwashburn
12-20-2000, 07:11 PM
I think Ed Fowler had an article in his book about this.

Geno
12-22-2000, 11:44 AM
My first billets were a little loose, so I melted brass all over it (brass rod & torch) and ground it, polished it then blued it.
Just clean it good and fill it up.

beknives
12-29-2000, 09:35 AM
Does the Brass affect the quench any? I know that if Brass is in a liquid form and submersed in water it will explode,will this happen in oil? This sounds like a really cool Idea..And will it work with any other metal lets say a stainless or nickel braze after the grind and before the heat treat ?
Bruce

beknives
12-29-2000, 09:44 AM
I tried to find the picture that Terry was talking about but I couldn't find it on the Electric Fence post,Could someone please point me in the proper direction to find the picture,Please....
Bruce

primos
12-29-2000, 11:27 AM
Bruce,
Here's the pic....

http://www.centercross.com/Current/Phoenix.jpg

beknives
12-29-2000, 02:58 PM
That is just too Cool....I see that he used it for bolsters.Does this mean that it is not heat treated ?
Bruce

jskeen
01-02-2001, 08:20 AM
Hey Guy,

Just a quick clarification on this subject. I thought that brass in your forge was a major NO-NO, but it sounds like one of the ways mentioned involved heating the brass treated billet in a forge. Won't this "poision" the forge for welding?

Thanks

Geno
01-06-2001, 03:28 PM
Brass coated cable is beautiful and strong. Be careful ,melting the brass. It will quickly overcome you with zinc poisoning. Trust me guys, you don't want to get this kind of sick. I just got over it.
I know not to breath the fumes, but it got me.
Do not attempt this without great ventilation.
I have done this successfully on blades too.
Brass begins to melt around 1800 degrees (cartridge brass 70/30 comp) and normal high carbon steel hardening temperatures are usually around 1450 degrees before quench in oil.
The red brass melts even higher if need be.

So here's how I did it...

First, I clean and heat the cable, red flux and re-heat to weld temp (yellow) and twist tight.
I repeat this until I can twist it NO tighter.
Then flatten it in a press to 3/8" - 1/2" thick.
Heat to orange/red and thoroughly clean with a wire brush until no flux is left on billet.
This may take a couple of heats so don't overheat.
I remove the billet glowing and apply brazing flux (a mich lighter flux) until it looks wet.
Light the torch and grab a brass rod then coat it all.
Once completely covered with brass, allow to cool slowly, making the billet soft.
Here is where I spli the bar in 1/2 (bandsaw) making matched billets for bolsters. Grind to shape (not overheating), polish, and blue at 485 degrees for 2 hours.
It's midnight blue, with gold stripes, ready to wax and screw in place.
Remember about the fumes!

beknives
01-06-2001, 09:48 PM
That is Just Too COOOOOL !!!!!!!!
I know that I already said that but I couldn't help myself.
Thanks for posting the how to on this Geno,I will have to try this sometime.
Bruce

Geno
01-08-2001, 10:38 PM
Have fun with it! :)
Just remember about the fumes.