I've made a lot of all-leather sheaths, but, now, I'd like to graduate to sheaths and scabbards with metal chapes and lockets. I figure I can handle the cutting of the sheet metal and soldering- but, I could use instruction/tips re shaping the metal to tightly fit leather and leather-over-wood sheaths and scabbards. Does one shape the metal over dummy forms/mandrels of the same dimensions as the sheath/scabbard- or what? Also, are joints merely butt fitted and soldered or overlapped? Would you use hard silver solder? I could sure use a "chapes and lockets for complete idiots" tutorial. Anybody care to share their knowledge and experience? Thanks!

Hey Hielander,

I'm about to figure out the same thing myself...

On chapes I've considered making some small stakes to shape and fit things on... you could make several different sized mandrels by stock removal and heat-treating just like a knife in shapes as close to the chapes as possible. I like to use a material called 'Ultra high molecular density plastic,' for making non-marring hammer heads for working on non-ferrous metals. You can order it through MSC and it comes in rods perfect for hammers ( or stakes for that matter.)

Me, I'll be working mostly in Sterling for now, and yes, I'd use hard or at least medium silver solder- I'd also closely fit and butt-joint them. you can overlap by angling the opposite sides and getting a diagonal joint but it really isn't necessary unless you're going to be raising the shapes some more or something. Do a search on Heikki Seppa- he's written some good books on hollow-ware ( the jewelry term for what you are doing...) He has a book with good explanations of these kinds of shapes and connections called 'Metal Forms for Craftsmen,' or something similar.

Let me know if you have any more questions as I'll be doing some of the same in the near future...

Thanks, J. Loose- good tips. I also meant to ask about how to attach the finished lockets and chapes to the scabbard. How is this usually done? I can imagine pins/staples/screws/etc. on leather-covered-wood scabbards, but how about to only leather scabbards.

I do not know what a chape and locket is but if you want to work the silver on the sheath or all silver sheath or some such I use a steel mandrell.When sanding the only thing I have found that would get them flat enough is a vertical sander. When you can no longer see daylight between them held up, then you can had solder. Once the solder melts it takes 100 degress F hotter to remelt it. They have 3 flows of hard solder but with the 100 degree thingy you can just watch it pretty close and make it fine.
Be sure and use full anealed silver or other shiney metals.
If your steel is not thick enough you can super glue and pin on plexiglass to make it correct thickness. Then grind it to finshed thickness/shape. I use a leather hammer on all of the shiney metals or sometimes a really high polished hammer face with gentle like blows. But if you hit harder than the wind through and oak tree stay with the leather hammer. I have a picture of a silver sheath on my web site if you want to take a look on the bottom of the page and takes a bit to pull up. Not trolling for business but to see if I can help with anything. fisk-knives.com page 2 I think. It is a silver sheath with some other work. Those button thingys can be tough sometimes too.

Hielander,

Re: How to attach fittings to leather sheath...

That's a good question.

Perhaps a combination of stitching through holes in the metal and glue? Rivets with large flat backs would also work. I have not looked closely at any Sgian Dubhs since I thought to ask that question...

Let me know if you figure anything sucessful out.

Also jfisk is right about solder becoming a little higher temp with each melt. Re-melted solder will also suck back into any joints when re-melted, especially if cleaned and polished. Get some Medium solder for multiple soldering operations ( i.e. butt-joint in HArd solder and then solder on a button with Medium...)

Hey Jerry,
Thanks for the page address, I was wonderin if you had a web site.

ghostdog

Ghostdog
Ubet. I change it every so often. Maybe there is something on there that will help you with something.
Got several interesting projects coming up next year or so.
jf

Went over there last night. Some great work there. I found it interesting looking at your working knife design. I was a big game guide and trapper for several years in the Great North, up in that corner of British Columbia that wedges its way in between Alaska and the Yukon. I had a custom builder make me my ultimate knife and it is quite similar to yours. We did do a lot of head caping and I carried a couple of Schrade Old Timer folders with small blades for ears and such.

I knew very few professional outdoorsmen who used big knives unless for effect, you know, dazzle the dudes.

ghostdog