Thanks a bunch for the pics Ed. 10,000 words and all that you know.

Do you have, or need, any sort of flame holder in the end of your burner?

Looks like the nozzle is welded into the side of the forge shell. How do you disassemble to replace or repair the lining (likely just unscrews it dummy).?

Do you have an in line propane regulator or are you coming straight off the tank vapor pressure? How much gas pressure to your needle valve if a regulator?

What is all that on top of the forge (grin)?

Now to find a blower - wait a minute dummy - yoiu have one on the old coal forge you have not used in years, use it!

Thanks again

Looks to me like a larger pipe is welded into the side of the forge and the burner is placed inside it and secured with bolts.

Ed,
Is the fire brick stacked up in from a heat deflector? If so, great idea. There is a lot of heat coming out and using regular tongs can get your hands to close to the heat.

Thanks for the pictures.

The pipe that is attached to the forge is a holder for the burner. It is a 2"ID piece of pipe, welded to the forge housing. The burner is inserted into the pipe, and held in place with a 1/4X20 bolt, just like a set screw.
I do us firebrick as a heat defector. The one sitting on top in the photo usually sits on the left side of the forge opening to deflect heat. That is also the side that my press is on, and after getting my shoulder toasted a couple of times by being too close to the forge, that brick saved my bacon! :lol:

Going back and studying a little more I see how you put in the burner this time. Also in the background I see a propane regulator (which answers another question - yes he use's one). What kind of line pressure are you pumping to the forge to weld with Ed?

Each of the forges does have it's own adjustable regulator. The welding forge (forced air) runs at 5 psi, and the ventruri forge runs at 9 psi.
Actually, the welding forge can be started at 5 psi, and once it's up to heat, reduced to about 3 psi, and it will hold/run at welding heat. The castable refractory in the welding forge absorbs and stores a certain amount of heat, requiring less fuel to operate. On the other hand, the ventrui forge is lined with straight ka-wool, which reflects most of the heat, and therefore requires a little more fuel. Another reason the venturi type burners require higher pressures is that in order for them to operate, the fuel orifice must create enough of a vacuum to suck the surrounding atmophere into the burner for combustion.

I haven't seen your forge, but was wondering if you could answer some questions.

I built mine out of a large 12" dia. pipe and lined it with hard fire brick. I use a Venturi burner and it runs about 10 psi.

So far this has worked well for forging but I am trying to get into Damascus and haven't been successful yet. even at 15 psi, I don't think I'm getting hot enough. I'm using cable and even with small dia. it's full of flaws. I'm twisting up tight and trying multiple welding heats, but the metal only goes to a bright orange, at the low range of yellow.

Maybe I need another burner?
I've heard of watching for sparks and have yet to see any.

any idea's would be appriated.

With that type of forge, using a venturi burner, it's very likely that your right..... not enough heat. You can build yourself a forced air burner that I'm sure will get you there. Have a look at my set up....................
pub42.ezboard.com/fcustom...=199.topic (http://pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm4.showMessage?topicID =199.topic)
I have photos of both my welding and venturi forge. There is also a picture of the blower/burner set up for the welding forge that might help. To build that whole burner set up costs only $10-$20, as most of the stuff you can find in the scrap yard and second hand store. I picked up the pipe at the scrap yard and found the 150cfm blower at a yard sale for $5.
The one thing I've seen many folks do when building a forge is to run out and buy everything new, which doesn't do anything but cause a person to spend way more than necessary. About the only parts I strongly recommend a person buy brand spank'in new are the propane fitting, which include an adjustable regulator, hose/fittings, and a propane needle valve. Another important bit of information is that with a fan forced burner you DO NOT need to place an orifice in the fuel supply line IF you use a PROPANE NEEDLE VALVE. Don't try to scrimp and use a ball valve, it will only cause you heartache.

Thanks Ed.