View Full Version : new damascus forge


Plain ol Bill
07-23-2001, 05:06 PM
After asking everyone a lot of dumb questions I molded all the answers together, came up w/ an idea or two of my own and here is what came out.--
albums.photopoint.com/j/A...533904&f=0 (http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1727620&a=13533904&f=0)

foxcreek
07-23-2001, 07:48 PM
Well done plain Old bill, well done! looks like the exterior shell is even Stainless, that ought to look nice for a long time to come. Done any welding with it yet?

Mike Conner
07-23-2001, 08:28 PM
That is probably the prettiest forge that I have ever seen. Where did you get the stainless pipe for the case?
Super job!
Mike

ghostdog
07-23-2001, 08:49 PM
Hey Ol Bill, looks pretty good. I like the shelf at the rear, wish I had done that on mine. What did you line it with?

ghostdog

Ed Caffrey
07-23-2001, 10:28 PM
Certainly no "Screw'in" around there! That has got to be the nicest looking forge I have ever seen! If it runs half as good as it looks, I'm gona be real jealous!! :rollin:

Plain ol Bill
07-24-2001, 08:36 AM
Thanks for the nice comments guys. The pipe is 16" OD, thin wall stainless (of course) given to me by a pipe shop. I am kinda like a crow - I like shiny things (grin). 3" of ceramic fiber in the top, 2" on the sides and a 2 1/2" refractory bottom. I am anxious to find out how the poured bottom holds up to flux. That gives me a firebox 8" tall and 12" across. Covered the Kaowool w/ ITC100 to seal it. Burner nozzle is 2" stainless w/ a cobbled fire holder in the outlet. I just peeled down the cut outs for the openings so there would be a shelf and then after putting in the Kaowool I covered the bottom of the inside opening w/ another piece of stainless to protect the Kaowool there.
Seems to work well so far.
I like to be able to move things around so made the cart it sits on movable w/ casters. Propane hose is long enough it will reach a bottle outside the shop.
Have not tried to weld in it yet -- but soon!

Mike Conner
07-24-2001, 08:55 AM
THIN WALL :eek: Flash, ding, click, boink. the old light bulb in my head just came on and I know that can be dangerous. :lol: I have access to all sorts of .060 stainless sheet metal. what if I just rolled a piece of it into a cylinder and welded the seam. Add a atainless bottom and pour a refractory base, line the sides and top with Kaowool like you did? What do you guys think? Would it work or am I crazy?
Let me hear your thoughts!
Mike

J Loose
07-24-2001, 10:19 AM
Lovely looking forge P.O.B.

There's something satisfying about making your shop equipment and making it look good... if my studio doesn't look organized I don't feel organized. If I don't feel organized I don't get squat done.

I notice the burner comes right in on the side- have you had a chance to see if the heat swirls around a large billet evenly? I was debating this point exactly with someone yesterday since I have a forge like yours but about 2 1/2' deep with the burner at the bottom. I was saying you could cut a hole in the top and drop long blades in it for heat treating, but was countered with the argument that the heat near the burner would be too much. ( I disagree. Heat rises and that kind of burner isn't real focused. ) Anyway... is the heat even on a large billet in your forge?

Mike:

The only thing I can think of that might not work with that is if you blew through your refractory with some borax you might get a real hot spot on your stainless shell. I've done it myself; getting the 3/8" mild steel wall of my forge up to a red heat when I got a big ol' flux hole in the lining. Doesn't seem like a -huge- problem though.

ghostdog
07-24-2001, 10:20 AM
Mike, I can see no reason why it won't work. You are crazy though. Just kidding<G>.

ghostdog

Mike Conner
07-24-2001, 11:47 AM
I must be, because I am thinking about a forge and live in Texas :lol: :lol: :lol:
Like it isn't hot enough in the shop like it is, but I could forge up some damascus billets in the winter and grind them in the warmer times :smokin:
Maybe I'll coat the walls with refractory too to prevent any hot spots.
Where's Ed?
Mike

Plain ol Bill
07-24-2001, 04:20 PM
Oh my Lord Mike - it's like a 100 watt light bulb came on right outside one of your ears and the light came out the other side (grin). The answer is yes - do it! you might have to have a sheet metal shop do the rolling for you but that would make a good shell. Put enough wool in it and you can lay your hand on the surface (except right by the doors) while it is running. Never had a blow out on side walls except where I ran a piece that was bent into the walls hard while trying to turn it over.

Mike Conner
07-24-2001, 07:56 PM
I'll start working on it in Thursday. Got a customer audit at work tomorrow, so I'll actually have to work :eek:
We have a complete sheet metal shop at work along with all of the welders anyone could want. I believe I will lap the joint and spotweld it up.
Thanks for getting this old gray matter moving again :D
Mike
ps: it would take more than a 100 watt bulb to shine through all of the cobwebs :lol: