Hey guys I need to find out what you use for a bottom in a vert. forge and if you use a rack? If you don't use the rack I assume you put your billets on a piece of round stock?How do you use it for general forging using tongs?I have a horiz. forge but am going to build myself and a friend vert. ones. Thanks, Mike

The bottom of my vert. forge is broken up fire brick. Since this is my welding forge, there will be a lot of flux dripping on the bottom. So I use this cheap material and throw it away when it's used up. I use the same stuff for my horizontal forge floor. It hold the heat, and evens out the "cold" spots. Also makes it easy to grab loose blades in the forge.

My vertical forge (AKA welding forge), has a floor of 3" thick castable refratory (shastacast 60). I placed a small plastic cup in the center before I poured the floor, and when removed, it made a nice tapered hole for the flux to drain out.
Nearly everything that goes into the vertical forge has a handle of re-bar welded to it, otherwise if you drop something........it's there for good! (or at least until the forge cools down and you can chip it out). I have two forges, one vertical for damascus work, and the other is a horizontal type for working straight steels. The horizontal forge has a fire brick split in the bottom which works as a table to place the work piece(s) on while heating.

I use cat litter in the bottom of my forges.It is a type of clay so,when it gets loaded with flux ,just pour it out and replace.The cheapest you can buy will work. Robert

I poured a couple inches of Satanite over some inswool... I now have a solid brick that is fairly indestructible.

I've heard the kitty litter thing is great.

I have shelves much like Plain 'ol Bill's and use long adjustable pliers and kevlar gloves to hold my billets. I work on the billet in sections rather than all at once. On rare occasion I drop one in but can usually fish it out...

If you plan to forge weld in your vertical forge plan on repairing the lining every couple months or so. I recoat the inside of the forge with Satanite when the borax finally starts to eat through it. Every six months or so I replace some of the inswool too. It makes a huge difference in operating temps... I think borax on the wall absorbs heat rather than reflecting it like inswool or mortar compounds.

Thanks a bunch for the info. really appreciate it!! Mike

Let me throw in 2 cnts worth here too. I have never used Satanite (where do you get it), but I always cover my Kaowool w/ ITC 100. It sure helps keep fibres from flying around and greatly increases the reflectivity of the UV from the wool.

I got my Satanite from A.P. Green at 800 428 2222.

I understand it is hard to come by now but ITC-100 is pretty much the same thing and easily available... I know a search for ITC-100 turns up the manufacturer.

Anyway, not only do both reflect more heat and protect the inswool ( for a while... ) but most importantly, they keep those fibers from blowing around. I know professional / academic ceramacists who refuse to use the stuff, considering it too dangerous to risk breathing loose particles.

I guess us bladesmiths are a little more cavalier...