gthomas
08-06-2001, 12:12 PM
I just finished working on a 120 layer billet made from 1084 and L6 with a simple twist pattern. Everything went fine with the twist and forging the bar back into square under the power hammer. At this point from what I was told I should have taken the billet to the grinder and cleaned up the edges where the twists could cause shears. Well this is my first piece of damascus and I got carried away and went staight to the hydraulic press and started flattening the bar and ended up with a 3/8" x 1" bar with what appears to be bad shears or shunts along the twist lines. I'm thinking that they don't go in very far and that I can grind them away ending up with a bar that's oval in cross section which I can then continue to press flat. Alternatively I was told to soak it in battery acid and try another welding heat and press it in from the edges in the hope of closing up any shears.
I realize it's great to learn from our mistakes (and I've learned a lot from this first bar of damascus!) but if anyone can see another alternative or thinks one of the above options is better than the other I wouldn't mind the advice!
At this point I'm leaning towards the grinding option with the assumption that the shear/shunt lines are surface cracks only (I'm not usually such an optimistic fellow!)
Guy Thomas
Tom Ferry
08-06-2001, 02:01 PM
Hi Guy well I have also had the same things happen when I twist. You are correct in that most of the time the shears are not very deep and after twisting and resquaring I usually grind away the shears till I no longer see them. Then forge from there into the knife. Another thing I do that seems to help is too grind off or forge down all the square edges before twisting or twist a hexagon instead of a square. Also when flattening keep the billet at a welding heat and take a little at a time instead of trying to take it all at once until you get the flats well established. Hope this helps I am sure Ed has more tips.
Ed Caffrey
08-06-2001, 08:21 PM
My solution to that problem was to never twist anything square. I get my billet(s) to the desired number of layers, and then using the flat dies on the press, I knock down the corners, creating another set of flats on the bar, I then continue that process until the bars is very close to round. (this usually only takes one heat. From there I do whatever twisting I need, then flatten out the twisted round bar into stock. Nothing worse than sheared welds! :mad:
J Loose
08-07-2001, 07:37 AM
        After making a couple billets with cold shuts as a result of twisting square and flattening I started grinding square to round. After grinding down the edges of a couple billets I realized I was wasting considerable time and material, so...
        I forge to round before twisting also. I find that when I do a really good job of it there are no cold shuts, shears or surface inclusions. Even a slight concave surface ( such as in between the initial corners ) results in a valley that tightens and deepens as you twist. Usually these are very superficial cold shuts on the final squared billet, but they do lend themselves to shearing.
        BTW on the subject of shuts/ shears I find that the edges where you overlap your billet before it is rounded/ twisted are also prime spots for cold shuts as you square things off after each weld. Sometimes one layer sticks up a little more than another and as you flatten them you can merely push one over another. I often grind the overlapped sides clean for the first couple welds. After that it seems less of an issue.
gthomas
08-08-2001, 09:47 PM
Thanks for the info guys, I think I've decided to grind away the edges and see what I've got, the more I look at the surface area that I did grind (I couldn't resist a quick etch to see my first damascus pattern!) shows the cracks disappearing within a few thousandths of and inch. The edges of course are deeper than that but grinding won't do more than reduce the bar to a nice oval cross section. (And hopefully useable stock to make several knives!) My fingers are crossed however. I sure know I'll take care of those edges either by grinding or forging round next time! This stuff takes to much work and time!
Guy Thomas