Has anyone worked with 52100?
Is it hard to grind?
Any tips on heat treat and finish?

I have seen an antiqued finish (Kinda brown) but don't know how it was done.

Thanks,

Bob Sigmon

Hello Bob!
52100 is, in my opinion the king of high performace steels. I am yet to find any other steel that, when properly forged and heat treated will give better overall performance than 52100. It is durable, tough, holds and edge, and is easy to resharpen. Many other steels will display one, or maybe even two of these characteristics, but their drawbacks are not worth it to me.
If you are not experienced at forging, I would strongly recommend that you work your way through a material like 5160 before tackling 52100. I can be very sensitive to over heating.
52100 responds wonderfully to the mulitple quench.
A general heat treat would be three edge quenches from non-magnetic, allowing the blade to cool IN the oil between quenches. A triple temper at 375F, for AT LEAST two hours each temper cycle, allowing the blade to cool in still air between tempering cycles. Cryo works great with this steel, and will add approx. 10-20% more cutting ability to the blade.
I assume you are forging...............it not, then forget everything I just said. In a stock removal blade, with standard heat treat, 52100 will usually perform no better than ATS-34 blade.
It's all in how you handle it!

Thanks for the info. I'm not forging yet but it looks like that where I'll be heading. As time and money allow the equipment starts to expand in the shop........


Thanks again,

Bob Sigmon

"A general heat treat would be three edge quenches from non-magnetic, allowing the blade to cool IN the oil between quenches. A triple temper at 375F, for AT LEAST two hours each temper cycle, allowing the blade to cool in still air between tempering cycles."

Not sure I understand. Is it: Quench #1, then 3 tempers, then quench #2, then 3 tempers, then quench #3 then 3 tempers? Or is it 3 quenches, and then 3 tempers?

Also, what do you recommend before the quench, i.e., normalizing / annealing?

Thanks,

JD

The entire heat treat process impacts the performance of 52100. From the correct normalizing, then annealing, all the way down the line. I personally normalize, then anneal. After which I do the rough grinding to 120 grit. I always leave things a bit oversized to allow for "sacraficial material", particularly on the edge.
The quenches are done in succession without tempers between. Run the three quenches, then the three temper cycles, and if you choose to do so, then the sub-zero quench, followed by another temper cycle at 25F higher than the previous temper cycles.

Thanks Ed!

Ed, just wondering, do you alow 24 hours between quenches?

It's often times not exactly 24 hours, but what I do is this.......
I generally save all my heat treating until late in the day. Usually it's the last thing I do before closing up the shop for the night. This way even on the days I'm working at the base, I can come home in the evening and do the next quench. This method is just convienient for me. My tests have shown that what really makes the difference is allowing the blade to cool down completely in/with the oil. This has the effect of helping with grain reduction, much like annealing does.