John Frankl
10-01-2001, 08:29 PM
Does anyone have any reliable sources for 52100? My first would be inexpensive, used bearings. Otherwise, bar or roundstock would be okay, too.
Thanks,
John Frankl
Thanks,
John Frankl
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View Full Version : 52100 John Frankl 10-01-2001, 08:29 PM Does anyone have any reliable sources for 52100? My first would be inexpensive, used bearings. Otherwise, bar or roundstock would be okay, too. Thanks, John Frankl Ed Caffrey 10-01-2001, 09:07 PM I don't think there is such a thing as inexpensive 52100. At least when compare to some of the other steels. I highly recommend Swain's Spring service here in Great Falls, MT. My computer took a dump on me today, or I would send you the price list for them. (I begged the Mrs. to let me use her's) Anyway, there are cheaper grades of 52100, but these are machinable grades with sulphur and/or lead added, which makes it unsuitable for blades. The top grade of 52100 is what you want, (52100E) If I remember, your looking at $6-$8 per pound. Give a call to Swain Spring service at 1-800-378-1246 and see what they can do for you. Chris, Jeff, or Jim can help you out. Tell them I sent you. John Frankl 10-02-2001, 04:35 AM Thanks alot, Ed. edward SE 10-17-2001, 06:21 AM I just ordered a rod from McMaster Carr Supply. They have the entire catalog on the web. I requested certification with it. It is very reasonablly priced. They also have O1, brass and nickel sheet and rod stock, belts, grinding wheels... I can get by with these guys for everything but handle material- and the walnut in my woods is more than enough. Ed John Frankl 10-17-2001, 09:22 AM Thanks for the information. What size stock do they carry? And are you sure it is 52100E? John edward SE 10-17-2001, 01:36 PM Well, to be exact, it is E52100. I just had the specs faxed to me and it is the real thing, compliant to SAE and AISI E52100 (and a bunch of other specifications). I think when you see just the number 52100, it is just a shortcut used out of habbit. I see it too. I don't know of any alloy 52100 (without the E). Another source of confusion might be that the specification number, for both AISI and SAE, is the excact same number as the alloy (E52100 here) but without the letter. So the spec for plain carbon C1018 would be spec number 1018 without the "C" I don't believe I have ever come across an alloy designated simply 52100. Sizewise, you name it. Bars from .25 inch to 4 inch in diameter (Fowler will naturally want the four inch stuff) and balls up to 3 inches in diameter. Have at it man. I'm going to try it myself for the first when my order arrives. I got some 3/4 inch bar (wimpy). Hey Ed C, if your listening, thanks for the advice on the 1084. I just got my vet mineral oil and a shallow pan to edge quench and I'm looking for a heating coil so I don't have to mess with heating it with sacraficial steel. But... back to the 52100 subject, can you expand on your warning to forge it within a narrow temp range? What indicators (visual...magnetic...smell...taste?) do you use to make sure you're in the proper range? Thanks. John Frankl 10-17-2001, 02:02 PM Thanks again. I'll check McMaster-Carr. As for the 1084, could you post the information on heat treating here or email me with it privately at seoulbjj@hotmail.com? John gthomas 10-18-2001, 01:36 PM I bought my first pieces of 1/2" and 3/4" round stock from Mcmaster but I noticed that Admiral Steel now carries the 3/4" round stock also. www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades/52100.HTML (http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades/52100.HTML) I don't know how this compares to Mcmaster on a per lb. cost but that can be worked out from the information given. Guy Thomas Ed Caffrey 10-18-2001, 06:25 PM Ed, Sorry about not answering sooner, been having internet problems. Anyway, when I speak about the "narrow forging" range of 52100, I'm warning folks not to overheat it. The trick to working it is to start out with the highest heats you expect to use, and move the majority of material with those heats. As you go through the forging process, continually reduce the heats until your down to a very dull red, using a light hammer to finish up. 52100 WILL NOT give you any indicators that you are working it too hot. About the only way you'll know is when you "cut test" it, and can't figure out why it won't cut worth a darn (hold an edge). Thats when you get really upset with it! It's also the reason that I steer novice bladesmiths into 5160 first. It is much more forgiving, and mistakes are much less costly. Once an individual works with 5160 for a while, and understands it, then they can move into 52100. allan lanigan 10-18-2001, 07:59 PM another sourse for 52100 is Rex Walter rexnpam@thesafly.net..there stock is forged down from larger stock,excellent product,fair prices.. allan lanigan 10-18-2001, 08:21 PM sorry,incorrect email address on previous post rexnpam@thesafety.net..infro at wwwdfoggknives.com/RexEWalter.htm (http://wwwdfoggknives.com/RexEWalter.htm) davebolton 10-19-2001, 08:00 AM we order our 52100 from admiral steel. Good stuff. Sweany 10-22-2001, 11:13 AM The E in E52100 stands for electric Rex walter sent me some info on the steel he works in a plant that makes it. The plant makes 5 varieties of 52100 52100 C. .95-1.10 M. .25-.45 S .15-.35 Cr. 1.30-1.60 52100 mod 1 C..90-1.05 M .95-1.25 S .15-.35 Cr1.30-1.60 52100 mod 2 C .85-1.00 M 1.40-1.70 S .50-.80 Cr1.40-1.80 52100 mod 3 C.95-1.10 M.65-.90 S .15-.35 Cr 1.10-1.50 moly .20-.30 52100 mod 4 C .95-1.10 M 1.05-1.35 S.15-.35 Cr 1.10-1.50 Moly .45-.60 He gave me a bit more info on the heat treat too. Nice Guy | |