Hello,

My brother just got me lots of two good handle materials--black walnut that he cut from his yard, and an elk rack that he got from a friend. Both are only a couple of weeks old. I am wondering how to store and age them properly for use as knife handles. The walnut is now in log form and the elk rack is fully intact. Do I cut these things into smaller pieces, leave them as they are, etc.?

Thanks,

John

Slice the log into boards an inch or so thick, and (keeping them in order as you remove them from the log) stack them between stickers -thin slats to allow air movement between the boards- in a dry place. Let 'em sit for a couple of years before using. Since walnut is a very open grain wood, stabilization is probably a good idea when you get ready to use it.

I have used some stag, but none that is "in the rough," so someone else might respond to how to deal with your elk rack.

With wood I generally cut it up into oversized handle material. Cut blocks larger than you intend, as well as slabs. Walnut should not be a problem, but some woods need the ends dipped in wax to prevent cracking. If your going to cut boards, do it just a Don described.

I'm not too keen on elk as a handle material, simply because the sheath is so thin, and there is a great deal of "pith" (pourus core). Fresh antlers should be cut into handle sized pieces and allowed to dry in at least 6 weeks before use. I personally prefer to let them go for 6 months, just to be sure, but when antlers are scored by sportsman's organizations, 6 weeks is the minimum they must dry before scoring.
Stabilizing is a good idea for both of the items you mentioned.

Thanks for the replies. I have no problem with the wait. The guy who took the elk, however, wants a knife asap. Is there any way to speed up the process for a single handle? If I will be stabilizing both antler and wood, is drying time less important?

Thanks again,

John

On the Elk, I would cut it up into handle size pieces then you can put it in your toaster oven on it's lowest setting (warm) and leave it in over night, then let cool and do this a few times to get it dry. I would then strongly suggest to fill the section with super glue and let it absorb as much as possible. Or you can put a heat lamp on it and leave it for a few days. The best thing to do is to build a dry box with a few shelves (mesh) and put a heat lamp on the bottom and have the lamp facing a piece of tin foil. Fresh Antler is going to shrink dramatically, and you're asking for nothing but problems if you use it too soon. I made the mistake myself several years ago of using a fresh piece of Elk and did it in the dead of winter here in Montana. When summer hit, the heat made the handle material shrink and it pulled away from the guard about an 1/8". Thank goodness I didn't sell it, and I still have it in the mistake drawer to remind myself what can go wrong! Hope this helps.

John,

One trick that I've learned with hardwoods for people like me who don't have a dry kiln is once you have the lumber cut and strip stacked is to cover it with black plastic. Try to keep an inch of air around each board. Check the lumber every 30 days. If you see any mildew forming then it isn't getting enough air and you should roll up the sides of the plastic some. If you see any cracks starting, then it is getting too much air and you should roll the plastic down some.

I would cover the walnut 60 days after it has been cut. Leaving it uncovered for that time will allow it to dry faster. 50-60 % of the moisture of the wood will dry in the first two months. Then the process should be retarded. Just remember to stack it where the sun light will never hit the lumber.

Also, all wood will dry 8-10 times faster through the end grain than it will through the sides so usually it is best to seal the end grain. Use either oil based paint (not latex), lacquer, varnish or wax. This will help prevent cracking.

Hope this helps.

Gary Mulkey