Guys,
Two issues here.
1. I need to recess a pivot in a ti bolster. I have always thought that a counterbore was the best method here. Is this correct?
I thought I had seen someone mention using a "reamer" of some type??? Maybe I'm mistaken, but I thought a reamer was only used to SQUEEZE a smaller hole open a little, to allow for a really tight fit of the pivot pin?
I have always assumed a counterbore is the only way to create a flat bottomed hole, with the exception of milling procedures, which I am not capable of. (don't have a mill)
Which brings me to my next concern:

2. Since I don't have a mill, I have been trying to decide the best way to THIN down materials. Of course, I don't own a surface grinder either.
One example would be some 1/4" thick ironwood, that i need to be 1/8". OR a 1/4" bolster that I need to be 1/8" thick.
Is my only option holding these thick parts up to the platen, and using equal pressure over the piece, and do as good a job as possible?

I have not had the guts to try to resaw some of these materials on my MSC Import Horizontal/Vertical bandsaw...

My equiptment is as follows:
-BaderIII grinder
-5 x 6 H/V Bandsaw (just like the Harbor Freight saw, slightly nicer)
-drill press (considered trying an endmill in the press, but I know it is not made for that kind of "side pressure" on the chuck)

Thanks fellas...

I just use a drill bit on the bolsters at the pivot area. When I use 7/32 pivots I use a 7/32 bit to go to the depth I want, then a 1/2" drill bit (to widen) that I ground the tip flat so it doesn't go through the other side. I don't have a mill either. The brad point drill bits are easy to modify.

Reamers: I think they are just held to tighter tolerences than drill bits.

I have the Grizzley version of your saw, and I use that to cut my wood blocks thinner. As for the metal, If it were me I would just buy the thickness that you need, considering your equipment. I'm in the same boat as you with equipment.

Jeremy

Thanks bud,
How has the saw performed with the "resawing" operations?
Are you using some type of "rip fence" or guide, or are you freehanding it?

I was thinking of making some kind of simple guide, but just haven't tried it yet.
I've got some 3/8" thick desert ironwood slabs, that I would like to rip down the middle, thus creating two pieces slightly above 1/8" thick (after the blades kerf is subtracted)
Also, are you using the bi-metal blades to cut these materials as well, or do you put on a wood cutting blade for wood?
Thanks bud.

I have had no problems splitting wood blocks. Most of them were 3/8" thick. I draw a line down the middle with a fine tip sharpie, and then just free hand cut them. I don't just push the block through, I cut around the outside of the block. I roll it cutting a little bit at a time making sure to stay straight.
I have a thinner blade that I was using to cut my scales, but I have used my bimetal blade to cut them too, no problems with either blades.

Jeremy

You are correct about the proper purpose of a reamer but I use them to create a flat bottomed hole in titanium bolsters. A little further down the Folder Forums page is a thread called Recessed Pivots where I described the process I use to do this. Here is a direct link: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27146

Thanks Ray, I missed that thread.

Jeremy

Thanks Ray. Yeah, I think I read that thread a while back, but wasn't too sure about the reamer. I've never owned any reamers, but will soon.
I think a counterbore will do fine.

Any tips on thinning down materials, when I want to only take about 1/16" off or so, of the thickness of some TI or steel?

Quote: " Any tips on thinning down materials, when I want to only take about 1/16" off or so, of the thickness of some TI or steel?"

Work very carefully. :)

Either that, or limit yourself to materials purchased very close to the size you like. That's what I did until I got a mill. O1 steel comes in nearly any thickness you can ask for and Alpha Knife Supply sells titanium in almost any thickness. Some stainless steels come in Precision Ground too, so that is another option. With careful shopping, you can go a long way towards avoiding the necessity of thinning down the materials. Yes, it costs more but it's cheaper than a mill.....

Well fellas,
On the contrary, I have found counterbores are kinda rare in cobalt or carbide. Mostly HSS which is not great on TI. It works yes, but not for long.
Maybe I will do the reamer thing.

Ray,
You are correct. I try to purchase materials the correct thickness, but there is always a time when I need to thin something down. It's a pain!
Anyhow, I am still trying to decide on a GOOD mill for my shop.
I have little knowledge about mills however. I would like to find a QUALITY tool, that doesn't need a TON of work to "fix up".
I have debated on going to a machine shop auction and snagging a Bridgeport at a good price, but there is always the risk of buying used.
However, I just haven't been able to bring myself to purchasing one of the cheap import bench mills.
Was kinda hoping there was something a bit better out there, that won't kill my pocket. Does such a machine exist? LOL!

On the reams, I prefer the HSS over the cobalt or solid carbide. I've been using the same reams for making flat bottom pockets for years. You're right, of course, that cobalt holds up much better on ti and all my drills are cobalt. I don't know why the HSS has survived so well, probably just because there is almost nothing for it to cut.

Many people have purchased used Bridgeports and been very happy with the result. But, they are usually people who either spent a lot of money and got a good one, or they know how to rebuild them.

I wouldn't be afraid of a good bench top mill. My Grizzly has been great. For knife making, most of us really don't need the capabilities of a Bridgeport type mill and the benchtops are more than adequate. I would recommend getting the biggest bench top you can manage though, if you get one at all. The physical size is important because it affects how you can set up your tooling. Mine is large enough that I can mount the vise on one end for use in some operations, and a milling plate in the middle for most of my folder work, and still have free space on the other end of the table. This saves tons of set up time and alignment issues.

Aside from sheer size, the biggest advantage the Bridgeport design has over a benchtop is the knee. The knee allows the table to be lowered staright down so that the tool can be changed without losing your position. As much as I would like to have that feature, I have yet to actually need it for knife making. If you think you need it, Grizzly has a bench top knee mill for about $1800. If it had been available when I bought mine I would definitely have gone that way....

Thanks Ray, very helpful.