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Hi,
Here's one that I did using the instructions from a saddle maker’s mag. This is one of the first ones I feel like I've started to get to idea right, but please tell me where it needs helps. Can't fix what I don't know is broken.
Front
http://www.internetbusinesslinks.net/album/drac/my_sheath1.JPG
Back
http://www.internetbusinesslinks.net/album/drac/my_sheath21.JPG
It's a cross draw sheath made with 6-7oz leather, using the tri basket weave. The stamp was a pain in the a** to use but I do like the pattern. This was a co-workers son's Christmas present and since they hunt water fowl a lot they needed a sheath that wouldn't be in the way but would give a positive hold on the blade. I saw an article in the mag describing these sheaths and how to make the pattern. Pretty straight forward.
Sorry about the quality of the pics, still trying to figure out how to use a camera,
Jim
MtMike 02-24-2005, 05:59 PM Jim, I like that pattern a lot -- you did a great job on it :D Obviously a lot of attention to detail went into this "straightforward" sheath. I've said i before -- it takes a lot of patience to make the simple designs look really classy. You pulled it off nicely.
Question: I can't make out from the picture (back side) -- is there a small flap extended at the top of the belt loop? If so what is the purpose?
Mike
SKIVIE 02-24-2005, 06:09 PM Jim, Way to go bud... I like that pattern also. Someday Ill figure out how to do one.
Looks Sweet, Thanks for sharing.
Shane
DC KNIVES 02-24-2005, 09:04 PM I like it Jim.Good design and execution.Pattern stamping is tough to make look good but you did fine. It just takes alot of practice.Keep it up.Dave :D
Thanks all,
Mike, having you say it's a good job is the sort of thing that can make a head swell. The flap on the back is where the back piece keeps going up for the belt loop to attach to it. The retaining piece that wraps around the front is part of the front piece of the sheath.
Shane, I got the pattern from Leather Crafters Magazine. The article is great and the instructions are easy to follow. I got several of their articles on sheath making and they are a nice addition to the help here. The article covered various sheaths like this crossdraw, a pancake, and several others. I'd recommend the articles for anyone like me who still has a lot to learn. The other articles that came in the magazines I ordered were also interesting. Some on stamping, carving, dyeing, ect.
Besides the stamping, which will just take more practice; I'm having problems getting the edges to look smooth. I have tried several different bevellers and maybe it's just me, but I can't get them to remove consistent amounts of leather. I've also had problems of the leather rolling over when I burnish the edges. Any suggestions?
Thanks again,
Jim
RICK LOWE 02-25-2005, 08:52 AM Jim,
Really nice work! That basketweave stamp is tough to learn and lay out. After my sheaths are sewn I use a 120grit disc and sand the edges even. Sometimes that leaves a feather edge on the leather. For this I use an edge skiver that removes just a little line of leather. It is grooved so that the skive is even and consistant. Then you can go back with a qtip and redye the whole edge and the small skived line. From that point, burnishing brings everything together. I think Tandy and other leather supply stores carry these edge skivers.
Rick
Thanks Rick,
I've tried using a belt sander but never tried a disc. I give it a try next time and see if it work for me. I have one of the edge skivers and I didn't do to well with it. It kept gouging the edge, but that was trying to use it for doing all the edge work.
Jim
Sandy Morrissey 03-18-2005, 09:28 PM Jim, my friend, I know that we just got through talking on the phone but my curiosity was piqued! Had to look more carefully at this sheath so that I could better answer your questions. Looking as carefully as I can to determine your inability to edge or burnish this leather, I find that it appears NOT to be a firm tannage such as carving cowhide. Soft tannage will not burnish or edge satisfactorily as it does not "pack". This observation is further borne out by the less than crisp impression of the stamp you are using. The general construction of the sheath is very, very good and your stamping line up is excellent. I find that the quality of materials used has a great deal to do with the quality of one's work and ability to further their skills. Your skills are evident so don't limit them by using materials that will not show case them. I hope I have not been too presumptious in my assessment here. If one could physically see and hold the leather in question the diagnosis might not be the same as that I have ventured! ---Sandy---
Me, buy cheap leather, NEVER! Well maybe once, or twice, it was a good sale :D .
Ok, ok, buy the good stuff then do the job :o .
You’re probably right on the leather. I'll try to get some better stuff and see if it's the leather or the maker. Once I get one done that I don't have to get to the buyer quickly I'll send it out of a real exam.
Jim
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