I have been debating for a while now on trying D2. I have been using exclusively O1 up to now. Is the HT method basically the same for D2 and O1 or are there a lot of differences. Any tricky things I should watch for?

Also where is a good source for this steel? Can you buy it in barstock somewhere or do you have to pound out ball bearings? Thanks for your help!!!

I found this in RHrockers D2 post, is this the process you all would recommend?

Here's a blade I just took out of the Evenheat oven. I ramped up to 1850, held for 20 minutes, then out and quickly placed between two steel plates. I've since tempered at 950 for two hours, room temp., then 900 for two hours.

David, this worked well for me. I got the infom from Roger Linger, and also got some info from RJ Martin a few months ago. I buy my D2 from Texas Knifemakers, but would like to find another source as well. TK carry 3 sizes only (but that's my only issue, just the size, the quality and the service is fine).

Thanks Robert! How do you like D2 compared to O1 as far as workability and edgeholding and toughness of the blade? Thanks,

You can check the spec sheet from Crucible by clicking the link in the "sticky" at the beginning of this forum. I have never tempered D2 at 900F !!
500F is the preferred tempering temperature, yielding Rc60 which (interestingly enough) also produces the toughest blade for this alloy.

Just curious-How did you guys pick 900F and why?

WHOA! BIG typo and brain lock-up guys. Should read 400 and not 900

OK-I like 400 beter than 900, but, try 500 next time for Rc60. It's the sweet spot for D2

A source for tool steel, including D2, that i got good service from is www.flat-stock.com

That's a deal (on the 500)!

Thanks bladeymae for the source for D2.

BTW, I just placed an order for D2 from Flat-Stock, and I sure like the prices. David, I don't find a whole lot of difference between the 01 and D2 I've done, except that maybe the D2 is easier to work. I like both, but I'm hoping that the extra alloy in the D2 will mean that it will be a little more rust resistant. A lot of knifemakers, going back a very long time, have sure liked it. Maybe it's the carbon guys stainless :o)

Good info here!!

Thanks RJ Martin, I was wondering about the temper number myself, not that I had any idea what it should be just that I thought D2 got a little bit harder than a 58 optimally. When I clicked on the sticky at the top of the thread I kept getting an error. Any ideas?

rhrocker thanks for all your info as well. I think I am definitely going to have to start playing with D2.

David: I fixed the sticky last night. It now points to the CPM page, but once there you can go to the home page and find the specs for anything.

Heres a question for ya. Does it make a big difference if you use stainless tool wrap to keep the air out while hardening O1 or D2 steel?

Gary, I use an oil quench (Brownells) for the 01, and so far I haven't used the wrap while it's in the kiln (but I do use PBC, it's a coating you apply when the steel is about 550 degrees, melts on the surface of the steel, keeping 02 out). I do use the wrap with D2, but no oil. I use pressure plates for quenching. 01 and D2 are a couple of my favorites.

rhrocker, so you use your kiln to do the ht for the O1? If so, what is your process for O1? What temp do you take it to and for how long? Thanks,

Yes, I use my Evenheat kiln for both 01 and D2. For the 01, I go to 1475, hold there for 9 minutes, then into heated (140 degree) Brownells "Quick Quench" oil. This is mostly as per Roger Linger, he furnishes most of my HT formulas (Thanks Roger!). I modified the soak temp slightly. Temper 400/one hour, then again at 375, one hour.

Thanks for the info!! will be getting a HT oven in the next few months and will definitely be giving this a try!!!

Robert, do you let the oven come up to full temp as fast as the oven can, or so many degrees per hour? Also do you soak at, lets say at 1000 degrees for a while before ramping up to hardening temp? I am talking about using O1 steel. Just got my Evenheat oven yesterday. Use to use just a oxy/acel torch with rosebud before. So I am full of questions. I really thank ya for the help.

RJ Martin,

Thanks for fixing the sticky! I meant to thank you earlier and just realized I had forgotten to post it. :rolleyes: So anyway thank you for all your help!

Gary, here's a quote from Roger: "What I do is be sure the steel is properly equalized at at least 500 F (I really heat mine to about 535 F), after all areas of blade are properly coated I ramp blade moderately to the preheat temperature (that is 1200 F for O1) and hold there for 7 minutes, then ramp as quickly as the furnace can to austenitizing temperature (for hunting size blades I soak O1 for 9 minutes)."

In the first sentence he's referring to using PBC, and letting the steel reach 535.

http://www.flatground.com/ is the internet sales site for Bohler/Uddeholm North America. They generally supply either Uddeholm or Precision Marshall D2 and A2. Whenever I have bought O1 from them I have gotten Starrett. They are very reliable, ship promptly and I do most of my tool steel buying from them.

http://www.toolanddie.com/ Is also a good site to buy tool steels from. They supply Precision Marshall and Timken-Latrobe steels. My only complaint with them is that sometimes their ordering is cantankerous and you have to call.

Both of these sites supply precision ground bars in any size imaginable for a knifemaker

Personally, I prefer D2 and A2 over O1. They are both more rust resistant and both hold an edge better. Both peak in impact strength at 60-61 and I have had good luck with them. I use A2 for bowies and choppers etc. D2 makes an outstanding hunting knife. I have had three different people process from 2 to 4 elk each without sharpening D2 knives.

I also use S30V and like it a lot, but am not completely convinced that it will markedly outdo D2 as a hunting knife. I harden D2 at 1870°F, follow with a dry ice freeze for several hours and then double temper between 400°-500°F for two hours each. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's soak times at hardening temperatures. These high alloy steels are not like simple Carbon steels WRT grain growth.

I'm wondering why you guys are using precision ground D2? Maybe for a folder, if you don't have a surface grinder, but I can see no advantage using it on a fixed blade and definitely not, if you're going to forge it. You can get hot rolled D2 for about half the price. Sheffield sells 3/16" x 1-1/2" x 18" hot rolled D2 for about $16. However, O1 and A2 seem to be available only in precision ground.